Tri-Trip Ramble and Sample
North Rim of the Grand Canyon, Yellowstone National Park, and Zion Rim to Rim Sampler:

GC: Transept Trail, Widforss Trail, North Kaibab to Roaring Springs
Yellowstone: Lonestar Geyser, Mt. Washburn, Yellowstone Natural Bridge
Zion: Observation Point on East Rim, Hidden Canyon, West Rim Trail

August 27 - September 9; November 27 - 29, 2011

(Photos and text © copyright by Rob Jones and Lin Grace Xu)
GC North Kaibab Trail
GC North Kaibab Trail
(Click the image for the full-size image)
Kathleen on the Widforss Trail, GC
Kathleen on the Widforss Trail, GC
(Click the image for the full-size image)

Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone
Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone
(Click the image for the full-size image)
Yellowstone Bison
Yellowstone Bison
(Click the image for the full-size image)

Zion sunset
Zion sunset
(Click the image for the full-size image)
Zion Bighorn Sheep
Zion Bighorn Sheep
(Click the image for the full-size image)

pano - Kathleen hikes the West Rim of Zion - scroll L-R to view it 
all (7960 x 900 pixels, 1.64mb)
pano - Kathleen hikes the West Rim of Zion - scroll L-R to view it all (7960 x 900 pixels, 1.64mb)
(Click the image for the full-size image)

Movie of Lonestar Geyser - Yellowstone Day 2 - 356kb
Movie of Lonestar Geyser - Yellowstone Day 2 - 356kb; note Natural Quiet
(Click the image to see the short video - 356kb)

"All this is the music of waters." - John Wesley Powell, 1895

"Not to have known - as most men have not - either the mountain or the desert is not to have known oneself." - Joseph Wood Krutch

      Tri-Trip overview:
      During the Fall of 2011, Kathleen and I enjoyed three car-camp trips sprinkled with wondrous day hikes. We hiked off the North Rim of the Grand Canyon (GC), in Yellowstone National Park, and a discontinuous rim-to-rim in Zion National Park. I collected the narrative, photos, movies, and maps in this one report rather than scatter them about the WV (WildernessVagabond) site. This is one factor that makes it a ramble, one rambles from report to report. It's a sampler of these three exquisitely fine chunks of public land.
      While hiking the North Kaibab trail in the Grand Canyon, I met Lin Xu, and she is guest authoring her report of a rim-to-rim (South to North Rim of the GC) hike. Lin's report will open the trip narrative below. After all, guests go first.
      There are many photos, panoramas (panos), movies, and maps intermingled in the day hike reports. Because of fires on the plateau, GC photo quality is not that great. The embedded maps are based on tracks straight out of my Garmin GPS (Global Positioning System) and may take awhile to load, so please be patient or continue browsing while they load.
      None of the photos in this report have been altered in color, contrast, or color saturation, with the exception of one pano (in which Ben Prepelka balanced the contrast across overlapping images).
      Please consider to start downloading some of the 9 videos while you browse the still images, panos, and the narratives.
      Cheerio and Enjoy, Rob of the WV.
      May you prosper in the Year of the Dragon (2012)! Lin Grace Xu of the GC

Lin Xu on the North Kaibab Trail - GC

Click thumbnail to see full size image
wGC-n-rim-Lin  on N Kaibab.jpg (210889 bytes)

wGC-n-rim-Lin on N Kaibab.jpg

wGC-n-rim-Lin on  N Kaibab2.jpg (184915 bytes)

wGC-n-rim-Lin on N Kaibab2.jpg

wGC-n-rim-Lin's photo of N Kaibab.jpg (202716 bytes)

wGC-n-rim-Lin's photo of N Kaibab.jpg

      Rim-to-Rim, Exploring The Grand Canyon! by Lin Grace Xu:

      3d Day 29th Aug. Phantom Ranch to North Rim:
      Morning and I got up in the ranch at 4am, amazing others also woke up; they try to go before sunrise. My beginning half hour is still dark; then the rock changes its face so many times, full of surprises of every turn. It sometimes appears as a castle, sometimes as a wall, the color changes from bottom to top starting with black, yellow, then green, grey, red sometimes shining red. I see unbelievable different layers, blocks and shapes. I walk slowly, knowing I have a lot of time, but still I am surprised to arrive at Cottonwoods at 10am. I feel pretty strong and restless; meanwhile a bit hesitating about how tough and how hot to continue; how fit am I? So go forward!
      I start with an immediate lesson, it is a whole long way up, not too steep but dry and hot; my bag is so heavy and my shoulder and neck feel the pain. By 10.45am only, I am sweating and exhausted. I recharge myself with some unhealthy food then move forward; and I sweat most along this path. I miss the water stops and did not realize this, and I walk more than I realize; of course my water runs out and I do not know how long before the next water stop. Luckily, I still have an apple to recharge and met two brothers on the way to chat. The way to the water stop is quite steep and painful and I arrive there around 1.30pm. I meet Rob there, who is an experienced hiker. I seek his advise on next stops after Grand Canyon.
      (1.24pm Home 22nd Jan. 2011) Finally I got to write up this portion of the trip with the motivation that Rob has been very patient with me for it, even though I have written up my Indian trip by now in Jan. 2012, I'm still missing part of the Grand Canyon story. Today we are moving to the new Dragon year I do not want to "own" any promised things to do:+)
      Yes, I was lucky that Rob is a very experienced hiker; I seek his advise on how to spend the rest of my days in Zion and Bryce, with the assumption that I will make it out of The Canyon in one piece.
      Rob is very fast and we hiked up 1.7 miles in a very sandy, dusty trail and we try to escape the horse crew which looks ridiculous along the trail ........ we stop in an overview point (the Supai Tunnel water stop) to let mules go past and get another bar with calories 240 (I do follow the advise to eat often but meanwhile worrying too often:+). The last part is much easier with a lot of trees and we end up on top at 3pm, not bad at all and I am lucky to have Rob chatting to make it easier and enjoyable. So pleased with myself, total time is 5 hours with a few stops - not bad at all!!! Think of my backpack bag, which is really something and I have to camp to make it worthwhile! I follow Rob to camp ground where it is such a positive surprise waiting: a nice supermarket even with ice cream !!! Two of them in the porch is a nice trade-off .........a moment of relaxing and being proud of myself: good decision to go ahead otherwise I would not have all these nice facilities here: the camp ground is so well organized, clean and at the best spot of North Rim. If in China, this is where the rich would be - not the hikers.........
      It takes me awhile to set up the tent, not difficult at all; amazed how clean the toilet is and can not believe I have the last spot in the camp ground for hikers, which has a 270 degrees canyon view by the cliff; I even have my private bench to overlook the canyon in its sunset moment. So spoiled by the first camp experience no others can be comparable I am afraid. Meditation is the best thing to do, which I did!
      I read a while until completely dark by the canyon, see some others coming for the sunset............yes they recognize I have the best spot:+). Though when it is completely dark, I feel a bit uncertain so go to bed at 9pm. Stars are intense but not so packed like in the Yellowstone experience.............. A good closure to all from the determination not giving up the ambitious goal even at certain moment it looks too ambitious?
      (Rob's note - Lin wrote this report of her last day of a three-day Rim-to-Rim hike of the Grand Canyon. This third day, Lin hiked from Phantom Ranch (near the Colorado River) to the North Rim, via the North Kaibab Trail, a distance of 14 miles (23 km), gaining 6,000' (1800 meters). Please note that I was carrying a day pack while Lin had a full backpack. Therefore, the report that I am a fast hiker must be taken in this context.
      Thanks are due Ranger Della Yurcik, who consulted with Lin about the trail and campground. Because I was chatting with Della in the middle of the North Kaibab Trail, I had the opportunity to meet Lin, who was hiking up from the Colorado River.)

GC Day 1: Transept and Bridle Trails: (reports below by Rob)
      Kathleen and I drive to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon (GC) and camp in the campground (CG). Tall, welcoming, Ponderosa Pines sway gently above as we briefly test the hammock. We rouse ourselves out of this luxurious rest and hike the Transept and Bridle Trails.

      GC Day 2: Widforss Trail:
      It's a lovely long 10 miles of rim walking while it heats significantly down below, in The Canyon. More swinging in the hammock, watching the swaying P-Pines overhead. Lovely.

Hike description: Start at the Widforss Trail TH (trail head), which is just North of the North Kaibab Trail - it is signed.
      This trail is fairly level and maintains its elevation as it rambles past branches of the Transept to Widforss Point - for views of the South Rim. Look carefully, you can see the South Kaibab Trail cutting down to the Tipoff across the canyon.

Map - A map of this GPS track/map of the Widforss Trail can be seen below. Change the map type (topo, terrain, etc.) and alter the scale as you wish. Click "bigger map" text below map if you want a larger map.

GC day hikes - Photos by Rob

Click thumbnail to see full size image
wGC-n-rim-1-top of North Kaibab.jpg (275240 bytes)

wGC-n-rim-1-top of North Kaibab.jpg

wGC-n-rim-2-redwall bridge.jpg (160050 bytes)

wGC-n-rim-2-redwall bridge.jpg

wGC-n-rim-3-roaring springs.jpg (184601 bytes)

wGC-n-rim-3-roaring springs.jpg

"Everyone is entitled to his own opinion, but not his own facts." Daniel Patrick Moynihan

Light travels faster than sound. This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak.

      GC Day 3: Roaring Springs:
      Kathleen and I start off for a hike across the Bridle Trail to the North Kaibab Trail, and into the great abyss. It's a 10+ mile round trip to Roaring Springs and back to the campground, with an elevation loss and gain of about 3000' (6000' total; or an Energy Required Mile rating of about 22 ERM for the trip). As the temperature soars, Kathleen turns back to loaf the rim while I continue to Roaring Springs. Lovely shade and fine water await at the rest stop.
      On my way back up, I meet Ranger Della Y. and we chat in the shade of her umbrella for quite awhile. We talk about the possibility of a combined trip some day. Wondrous. Ranger Della, of course, is featured in some of the WV reports about The Canyon. Soon, Lin Xu arrives, hiking cross-canyon, and Lin and I continue to a rest stop at the Supai Tunnel (and water!) while Della continues her patrol into The Canyon. Della notes that there are new scenic toilets near the Roaring Springs residence, and I regret not continuing down that far. Might this be something exciting for the next trip?
      Talking with the high-powered Lin makes the slog up the powdery dust trail go quickly and soon we reach the Supai Tunnel and the water stop. This luscious water is pumped up from Roaring Springs. We pause long enough to allow the swirling dust cloud puffed up by a mule train to settle, then continue into the land of Ponderosa Pines and the coolness of the North Rim.
      Lin continues to the camp registration once we reach the rim, while I head back to camp. Della has called ahead to reserve a spot for Lin, yet I offer her a spot in our camp if this does not work out.

Hike description: This hike starts and ends in the North Rim campground (CG). It's about 10 miles of hiking, with an elevation loss of about 3,000', followed by a gain of 3,000'.
      Hike the Bridle Trail from the CG to the TH (trail head) for the North Kaibab Trail. Drop into the Grand Abyss known as The Grand Canyon.
      I was focused on the water at the Supai Tunnel, and forgot to turn on my GPS after a rest - so the track below actually stops on the way back up to the TH (trail head) at the Supai Tunnel. So, the elevation gained does not match the elevation lost.
      Terrific hike. Start very early or after 2 p.m. (shade more on the trail) during the Summer.
      Track (below) is best viewed in topo mode.

Map - A map of this GPS track/map of the North Kaibab Trail to Roaring Springs can be seen below. Change the map type (topo, terrain, etc.) and alter the scale as you wish. Click "bigger map" text below map if you want a larger map.

Scenic Toilets of the North Rim - Photos by Rob

Click thumbnail to see full size image
wGC-n-rim-scenic toilet Roaring Springs.jpg (229114 bytes)

wGC-n-rim-scenic toilet Roaring Springs.jpg

wGC-n-rim-scenic toilet Supai Tunnel.jpg (211461 bytes)

wGC-n-rim-scenic toilet Supai Tunnel.jpg

wGC-n-rim-scenic toilet Widforss.jpg (522775 bytes)

wGC-n-rim-scenic toilet Widforss.jpg

Movie Fountain Paint Pots - Yellowstone Day 1 - 1.8mb
Movie - Fountain Paint Pots - Yellowstone Day 1 - 1.8mb
(Click the image to see the short video - 1.8mb)

      Yellowstone Day 1: Bugle Boardwalk, calling out the cows:
      So, Kathleen and I have made it to Yellowstone, driving up through Idaho on the way up. We plan to return home via Teton National Park and border romp along the Wyoming-Utah divide.
      We pause to walk a few boardwalks along the way to camp.
      It’s a bit busy in the Park, yet tapering off, so we made advance reservations at Grants Village. We arrive and begin setting up when that eerie, wondrous, hymn of the forest lets lose in the Lodgepole Pines in the next camp over. Erroooo-uh – whu- whu! One cannot describe the bugle of the bull elk in rut, so I will add a link to the (below) links section so you can enjoy it yourself. It is just not Fall without these friends calling for cows (cow elk, that is, no gengrich stuff for these guys).
      Kathleen is the one who rousts me out of my muttering about which way to set the tent, saying “hey! Who is that calling – wait, it’s a huge elk!” We drop the cooler back in the truck (it is big bear country after all) and head into the pines in search of this denizen of the West. Soon, we find a fresh trail with prints denting the forest duff of pine needles, bark bits, and such. And, pausing to listen and sniff – yes, the big bulls are odiferous – we hear the snorts of the big guy not far away. It is into dusk and so no good photos are obtained, yet what a joy to follow Mr. Elk as he tours his terrain, calling out the cows.

Hear the elk! Click here for an MP3 sound recording of an elk bugeling

Movie of Chinese Spring - Yellowstone Day 1 - 1.8mb
Movie of Chinese Spring - Yellowstone Day 1 - 1.8mb
(Click the image to see the short video - 1.8mb)

Yellowstone Day 1 - Photos by Rob

Click thumbnail to see full size image
wyel-11-day1-1 Fountain Paint Pots.jpg (474450 bytes)

wyel-11-day1-1 Fountain Paint Pots.jpg

wyel-11-day1-2 Fountain Paint Pots.jpg (585480 bytes)

wyel-11-day1-2 Fountain Paint Pots.jpg

wyel-11-day1-3 Fountain Paint Pots.jpg (482851 bytes)

wyel-11-day1-3 Fountain Paint Pots.jpg

wyel-11-day1-4 Steady Geyser area.jpg (176721 bytes)

wyel-11-day1-4 Steady Geyser area.jpg

wyel-11-day1-5 Buffy coming.jpg (377563 bytes)

wyel-11-day1-5 Buffy coming.jpg

wyel-11-day1-6 Buffy coming.jpg (396523 bytes)

wyel-11-day1-6 Buffy coming.jpg

wyel-11-day1-7 Buffy coming.jpg (379647 bytes)

wyel-11-day1-7 Buffy coming.jpg

wyel-11-day1-8 Buffy jam.jpg (350690 bytes)

wyel-11-day1-8 Buffy jam.jpg

wyel-11-day1-9 Fire across Yellowstone Lk.jpg (252647 bytes)

wyel-11-day1-9 Fire across Yellowstone Lk.jpg

wyel-11-day1-10 Bull Elk in poor light.jpg (146508 bytes)

wyel-11-day1-10 Bull Elk in poor light.jpg

wyel-11-day1-11 Bull Elk in poor light.jpg (294900 bytes)

wyel-11-day1-11 Bull Elk in poor light.jpg

wyel-11-day1-12 Bull Elk bugles in poor light.jpg (292645 bytes)

wyel-11-day1-12 Bull Elk bugles in poor light.jpg

Hear the elk! Click here for an MP3 sound recording of an elk bugeling

Movie of Firehole Spring - Yellowstone Day 1 - 1.4mb
Movie of Firehole Spring - Yellowstone Day 1 - 1.4mb
(Click the image to see the short video - 1.4mb)

Movie of Surprise Pool - Yellowstone Day 1 - 1.9mb
Movie of Surprise Pool - Yellowstone Day 1 - 1.9mb
(Click the image to see the short video - 1.9mb)

another movie of Lonestar Geyser - Yellowstone Day 2 - 2.2 mb
another movie of Lonestar Geyser - Yellowstone Day 2 - 2.2 mb
(Click the image to see the short video - 2.2 mb

      Yellowstone Day 2: Lovely Lonestar:
      After a chilly start to the morning, we are off to hike to Lonestar Geyser. Hiking the idyllic mellow meadows along Spring Creek, it’s an easy tour to Lonestar. Luck again is with us because we just sit on a log for a snack when the geyser starts a hesitant hiccupping and hissing. Swinging the trusty Panasonic camera into play, I try for photos and short videos, which we are sharing with you on this page. Surprisingly, Lonestar leaps into a full eruption and continues to erupt for several minutes, the spouting waxing and waning.
      Then, we travel the short distance to the Old Faithful area and join a Ranger hike around the old geyser, seeing, smelling, and listening to fumaroles and burbling springs. There are old bleached bones from days of Winter bison wandering the warm thermal areas, yet falling through the sometimes thin crust or otherwise having a bad day.

Hike description: Start 3.5 miles South of Old Faithful junction, just SE of the parking for Kepler Cascades.
      Easy track along the Firehole River to the intermittent geyser, which errupts every 3 hours or so.

Map - A map of this GPS track/map to Lonestar Geyser can be seen below. Change the map type (topo, terrain, etc.) and alter the scale as you wish. Click "bigger map" text below map if you want a larger map.

Yellowstone Day 2 - Photos by Rob

Click thumbnail to see full size image
wyel-11-day2-1 Lonestar Geyser.jpg (194557 bytes)

wyel-11-day2-1 Lonestar Geyser.jpg

wyel-11-day2-2 Lonestar Geyser.jpg (178420 bytes)

wyel-11-day2-2 Lonestar Geyser.jpg

wyel-11-day2-3 Blue Star Spring.jpg (545542 bytes)

wyel-11-day2-3 Blue Star Spring.jpg

Movie of Lower Yellowstone Falls - Yellowstone Day 3 - 3.0mb
Movie of Lower Yellowstone Falls - Yellowstone Day 3 - 3.0mb
(Click the image to see the short video - 3.0mb)

      Yellowstone Day 3: Mt. Washburn:
      Today starts with bison blockades. The big meadows along creek and river are intermittently clogged with the shaggy beasts called bison. Tourists and bison lovers call them buffalo, or buffy buffalo, or just buffy. Coyotes work the fringe of the herd, apparently benefiting from the rodents and big insects displaced by the dusty bison carpets. Buffy youngsters bounce along behind slow moving adults as they cross the river. Why does the bison cross the river? Perhaps the grass looks greener on the other side? Or, perhaps the buffys are tired of the winnehogos and their poisonous emissions?
      After admiring the buffys, and listening to their low register resonating guttural grunts and buffy utterances, we continue to hike the Uncle Jim Trail to the overlook of Yellowstone Falls. As we clomp down the long stairway into the Ggrand Canyon of the Yellowstone, a rainbow forms in the mist from the falls, lending a kodachrome of colors to the yellow hues deposited along the canyon walls by eons of thermal activity. It’s a tremendous view and an auditory delight.
      Continuing to Dun Raven Pass, we launch off toward Mt. Washburn (see map), tracking our route one-way with the GPS (Global Positioning System) to the summit. Today, the fire lookout/communication tower is open, and we lounge in the viewing room and wonder how wide our field of view might be if not for the smoke from the fire burning across Yellowstone Lake. Yes, there’s a dreadfully smoky cast to the air from a throng of small natural fires. We keep watch for Bighorn Sheep, yet don’t see any today.
      On the way back to camp, we again encounter buffy blockades and a harried Ranger trying to keep the winnehogos from more seriously obstructing traffic. “Move along little (55 foot, sun obliterating, climate changing) doggie!” The Ranger bellows over the jeep loudspeaker.
      Baby buffys are on an island in the river with portions of the herd. A baby buffy rests his head on a log as many tons of rolling dust bags swirl about and back and forth to the island. Serene.
      On our return to camp, I am delighted to see that a new neighbor is apparently about. What I see is a fine backpack tent made from cuben fiber, a rare creature. So, I assume there must be a backpacker or bike tourist about. I light the fire, help a little with dinner and wine, and wait for the arrival of kindred spirits. Ivan of the Canary Islands, his young son, and Francisca (the wife) later arrive. Kathleen and Ivan practice their Spanish/English and I admire the tent.

Hike description: Drive to Dunraven Pass, which is 4.5 miles North of Canyon Junction in Yellowstone NP.
      Hike the old road to the lookout and observation area.
      Map - best viewed in topo mode.
      Elevation data above are from one-way track, going up to the LO.
      Round trip mileage is about 6.3 miles.

Map - A map of this GPS track/map to Mt. Washburn can be seen below. Change the map type (topo, terrain, etc.) and alter the scale as you wish. Click "bigger map" text below map if you want a larger map.

Movie of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone Day 3 - 4.6mb
Movie of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone Day 3 - 4.6mb
(Click the image to see the short video - 4.6mb)

Yellowstone Day 3 - Photos by Rob

Click thumbnail to see full size image
wyel-11-day3-1 cow bison.jpg (277711 bytes)

wyel-11-day3-1 cow bison.jpg

wyel-11-day3-2 lounging bison.jpg (475424 bytes)

wyel-11-day3-2 lounging bison.jpg

wyel-11-day3-3 coyote works the edge.jpg (538752 bytes)

wyel-11-day3-3 coyote works the edge.jpg

wyel-11-day3-4 river of  bison.jpg (234978 bytes)

wyel-11-day3-4 river of bison.jpg

wyel-11-day3-5 coupling bison.jpg (461495 bytes)

wyel-11-day3-5 coupling bison.jpg

wyel-11-day3-6 buttting  bison.jpg (469425 bytes)

wyel-11-day3-6 buttting bison.jpg

wyel-11-day3-7 Upper Falls.jpg (201402 bytes)

wyel-11-day3-7 Upper Falls.jpg

wyel-11-day3-8 Lower Falls.jpg (248206 bytes)

wyel-11-day3-8 Lower Falls.jpg

wyel-11-day3-9 GC of the Yellowstone.jpg (292749 bytes)

wyel-11-day3-9 GC of the Yellowstone.jpg

wyel-11-day3-10 GC of the Yellowstone.jpg (419531 bytes)

wyel-11-day3-10 GC of the Yellowstone.jpg

wyel-11-day3-11 Mt Washburn.jpg (378903 bytes)

wyel-11-day3-11 Mt Washburn.jpg

wyel-11-day3-12 smokey view from  Mt Washburn.jpg (316364 bytes)

wyel-11-day3-12 smokey view from Mt Washburn.jpg

wyel-11-day3-13 Mt Washburn.jpg (281671 bytes)

wyel-11-day3-13 Mt Washburn.jpg

wyel-11-day3-14 Mt Washburn.jpg (350993 bytes)

wyel-11-day3-14 Mt Washburn.jpg

wyel-11-day3-15 Ivan Domínguez.jpg (396982 bytes)

wyel-11-day3-15 Ivan Domínguez.jpg

      Yellowstone Day 4: Yellowstone NB:
      We start off lounging in portable chairs upstream of Fishing Bridge, eating granola and yogurt and watching small trout work the shallows along the river. It feels good to be out in the sun after a cool evening.
      It’s a light day of hiking to Yellowstone Natural Bridge and touring some boardwalks for geysers/springs today. Most think that Bridge Bay Campground and the bay are named after the bridge carrying traffic across the neck of the bay, the bay off Yellowstone Lake. Not so. It’s the volcanic natural bridge which spawned the Bridge Bay name. It’s a lovely lilting walk if one goes in via the campground TH (rather than the biker/old road TH near the highway). The bay is off the northwestern shore of Yellowstone Lake and was named in 1871 by the United States Geological Survey for the natural bridge over a tributary of Bridge Creek.
      A walk of the West Thumb Geyser boardwalk takes us to now dormant geysers that once (still occasionally do) spout from just under the frigid lake waters. Colorful hot pools and textured sluiceways make me long for a dip in a natural hot springs. The Greater Yellowstone. The Eaarth desperately needs areas to protect whole ecosystems, trans-continental wildlife corridors, important big predators (e.g., wolves, grizzly bears), and buffer the national parks in preserving some of what makes this country great. The Greater Yellowstone should be one of these areas.

Hike description: A 3-mile round trip hike to a natural bridge in Yellowstone National Park.
      Easy hiking. Take the trail up to the bridge (the tail once went across the NB!), and loop around to get the best views of the NB.
      TO TRAILHEAD: Park in the long term trailer parking area at Bridge Bay Marina. The Trail crosses the entry road and heads toward the camp ground, circling around to meet the old access road (which starts from near the main road - for bikers).

Map - A map of this GPS track/map to Yellowstone NB can be seen below. Change the map type (topo, terrain, etc.) and alter the scale as you wish. Click "bigger map" text below map if you want a larger map.

Movie of the Mud Volcano Day 4 - 1.7mb
Movie of the Mud Volcano Day 4 - 1.7mb
(Click the image to see the short video - 1.7mb)

Yellowstone Day 4 - Photos by Rob

Click thumbnail to see full size image
wyel-11-day4-1 Yellowstone NB.jpg (667579 bytes)

wyel-11-day4-1 Yellowstone NB.jpg

wyel-11-day4-2 Natural Bridge.jpg (249967 bytes)

wyel-11-day4-2 Natural Bridge.jpg

wyel-11-day4-3 Natural Bridge.jpg (264568 bytes)

wyel-11-day4-3 Natural Bridge.jpg

wyel-11-day4-4 Raven.jpg (230229 bytes)

wyel-11-day4-4 Raven.jpg

wyel-11-day4-5 Big Cone W Thumb.jpg (262292 bytes)

wyel-11-day4-5 Big Cone W Thumb.jpg

wyel-11-day4-6 Black Pool W Thumb.jpg (258181 bytes)

wyel-11-day4-6 Black Pool W Thumb.jpg

wyel-11-day4-7 Abyss Pool W Thumb.jpg (464411 bytes)

wyel-11-day4-7 Abyss Pool W Thumb.jpg

wyel-11-day4-8 W Thumb.jpg (461237 bytes)

wyel-11-day4-8 W Thumb.jpg

wyel-11-day4-9 baby buffy lounges.jpg (395846 bytes)

wyel-11-day4-9 baby buffy lounges.jpg

wyel-11-day4-10 buffy island.jpg (372868 bytes)

wyel-11-day4-10 buffy island.jpg

wyel-11-day4-11 buffy island.jpg (432307 bytes)

wyel-11-day4-11 buffy island.jpg

wyel-11-day4-12 buffy departure.jpg (450500 bytes)

wyel-11-day4-12 buffy departure.jpg

Scenic Toilets of Yellowstone

Click thumbnail to see full size image
wyel-11- scenic toilet 1 yellowstone.jpg (298908 bytes)

wyel-11- scenic toilet 1 yellowstone.jpg

wyel-11- scenic toilet 2 fountain paint pot area.jpg (288345 bytes)

wyel-11- scenic toilet 2 fountain paint pot area.jpg

wyel-11- scenic toilet 3 yellowstone lake.jpg (472108 bytes)

wyel-11- scenic toilet 3 yellowstone lake.jpg

wyel-11- scenic toilet 4 fishing bridge.jpg (540356 bytes)

wyel-11- scenic toilet 4 fishing bridge.jpg

wyel-11- scenic toilet 5 uncle tom's trailhead.jpg (391420 bytes)

wyel-11- scenic toilet 5 uncle tom's trailhead.jpg

wyel-11- scenic toilet 6 dunraven pass approach.jpg (215250 bytes)

wyel-11- scenic toilet 6 dunraven pass approach.jpg

wyel-11- scenic toilet 7 dunraven pass.jpg (481026 bytes)

wyel-11- scenic toilet 7 dunraven pass.jpg

wyel-11- scenic toilet 8 pelican bay.jpg (546172 bytes)

wyel-11- scenic toilet 8 pelican bay.jpg

wyel-11- scenic toilet 9 bridge bay.jpg (426942 bytes)

wyel-11- scenic toilet 9 bridge bay.jpg

wyel-11- scenic toilet 10 mud volcano area.jpg (306843 bytes)

wyel-11- scenic toilet 10 mud volcano area.jpg

wyel-11- scenic toilet 11 grand teton park entrance.jpg (421801 bytes)

wyel-11- scenic toilet 11 grand teton park entrance.jpg

wyel-11- scenic toilet 12 echo rest area - utah.jpg (296302 bytes)

wyel-11- scenic toilet 12 echo rest area - utah.jpg

      Zion Day 1; Part 1 of the rim-to-rim: The East Rim - Observation Point and Hidden Canyon, 10.6 miles, gain (and lose) 2250', for an ERM (Energy Required Miles) of 19.6.
      Kathleen and I drove down from a Thanksgiving visit with our good friends Bob and Doris in Smog Lake and camped in the Watchman CG (campground) last night. We were in light clothes until sunset, when it felt great to start a fire and stay warm. Sylvan.
      As we prepare to hike today, it's dark in the main canyon yet the sun glows on sheer Navajo Sandstone above and across the canyon. Photographing the scenic toilet at the TH (trailhead) is a balance of light and dark. It's a bit chilly starting out, and Kathleen and I shed gloves and top insulation layers not long after passing the trail leading to Hidden Canyon. The light is not yet on Weeping Rock, so we'll photograph it on the way down, provided there is sun.
      Up and up, into narrows and on into opening canyons and the trail the CCC (Civilian Conservation Corp - something we now need again) has carved into the sandstone, the trail clinging on the edge of the checkerboard cones. Scenic.
      The trail is well graded and soon arrives at the end of the paved portion, then it laterals over to Observation Point. This section is truly lovely as one gazes over part of the route up and one can admire the creamy sandstone buttresses sloping into the canyon.
      At the Point, we find the view a bit clogged with haze, yet the close views are astounding. The view is down the canyon of the Virgin River as it slithers toward the burg of Springdale. I see a curious chipmunk on its way up the rock to greet and glean crumbs from my sandwich, then realize there are three chipmunks, and that one of them has snuck in for a nibble of bread while I am busy photographing a friend. Stealthy.
      Cruising down from Observation Point, we decide to explore Hidden Canyon. Just the name lures us on. Along the way down, we encounter a doe deer in a narrows section, and she shares the trail with us for awhile, pretending to ignore us as she nibbles brush.
      The trail to Hidden Canyon is somewhat tenuous at times and I'm glad there is no ice on the trail. Cut into the side of cliffs in places, and at times following a natural rock shelf edged into the cliff, it's no place for the acrophobic. The formal trail (such that it is) ends at the mouth of Hidden Canyon (see the slot-like canyon on the below map, most visible when in topo mode). Kathleen opts to head down to look for wild turkeys while I am intrigued by the notice of a "free standing arch" farther up the canyon. Yes, it's worth it.
      Trail Summary: The trail climbs steadily from the trailhead, past good views of Weeping Rock, to the junction with the Hidden Canyon Trail. This side trip is worth the effort, and it's also worth the effort to continue into the slot to Hidden Canyon Arch, perhaps another 0.25 mile beyond the end of the formal trail. Along the way, there is lots of exposure, yet handrails to cling to as well. From the Hidden Canyon junction, the trail continues to climb, past another junction with the East Rim Trail, and finally tops out on the rim. Gorgeous views await at Observation Point.

Map - A map of this GPS track/map to Observation Point can be seen below. Change the map type (topo, terrain, etc.) and alter the scale as you wish. Click "bigger map" text below map if you want a larger map.

Zion Day 1 - Observation Point

Click thumbnail to see full size image
wzion-2011-day1-1  Kathleen on Obs Pt trail.jpg (422055 bytes)

wzion-2011-day1-1 Kathleen on Obs Pt trail.jpg

wzion-2011-day1-2 View from Observation Point.jpg (302098 bytes)

wzion-2011-day1-2 View from Observation Point.jpg

wzion-2011-day1-3 Chipmunk.jpg (271981 bytes)

wzion-2011-day1-3 Chipmunk.jpg

wzion-2011-day1-4 Chipmunk.jpg (515206 bytes)

wzion-2011-day1-4 Chipmunk.jpg

wzion-2011-day1-5 Chipmunk.jpg (231616 bytes)

wzion-2011-day1-5 Chipmunk.jpg

wzion-2011-day1-6  Observation Pt view.jpg (365798 bytes)

wzion-2011-day1-6 Observation Pt view.jpg

wzion-2011-day1-7  USGS monument 6508'.jpg (522008 bytes)

wzion-2011-day1-7 USGS monument 6508'.jpg

wzion-2011-day1-8 from Obs Pt trail.jpg (299489 bytes)

wzion-2011-day1-8 from Obs Pt trail.jpg

wzion-2011-day1-9 rock detail.jpg (465377 bytes)

wzion-2011-day1-9 rock detail.jpg

wzion-2011-day1-10 share the trail.jpg (567273 bytes)

wzion-2011-day1-10 share the trail.jpg

wzion-2011-day1-11 share the trail.jpg (328061 bytes)

wzion-2011-day1-11 share the trail.jpg

wzion-2011-day1-12 from Obs Pt trail.jpg (280817 bytes)

wzion-2011-day1-12 from Obs Pt trail.jpg

Zion Day 1 - Hidden Canyon

Click thumbnail to see full size image
wzion-2011-day1-13 Hidden Canyon Arch.jpg (505681 bytes)

wzion-2011-day1-13 Hidden Canyon Arch.jpg

wzion-2011-day1-14 Hidden Canyon Arch.jpg (519127 bytes)

wzion-2011-day1-14 Hidden Canyon Arch.jpg

wzion-2011-day1-15 Hidden Canyon Arch.jpg (473521 bytes)

wzion-2011-day1-15 Hidden Canyon Arch.jpg

wzion-2011-day1-16 Hidden Canyon Arch.jpg (300615 bytes)

wzion-2011-day1-16 Hidden Canyon Arch.jpg

wzion-2011-day1-17 Weeping Wall.jpg (422746 bytes)

wzion-2011-day1-17 Weeping Wall.jpg

wzion-2011-day1-18 deery.jpg (626880 bytes)

wzion-2011-day1-18 deery.jpg

pano -West Rim Wall of Zion - vertical pano - scroll up-down to view it 
all (900 x 1767 pixels, 556kb)
pano -West Rim Wall of Zion - vertical pano - scroll up-down to view it all (900 x 1767 pixels, 556kb)
(Click the image for the full-size image)

pano -  the West Rim of Zion - scroll L-R to view it 
all (3297 x 900 pixels, 976kb)
pano - the West Rim of Zion - scroll L-R to view it all (3297 x 900 pixels, 976kb)
(Click the image for the full-size image)

      Zion Day 2; Part 2 of the rim-to-rim: The West Rim - Scout Lookout and West Rim, 9 miles, gain (and lose) 2500', for an ERM (Energy Required Miles) of 19.
      It's chilly (after warming on the hike up from The Grotto) in Refrigerator Canyon, thoroughly earning its name. It's a dark slot and a bit of breeze would make it truly frigid. Yet, soon, we are climbing the sinuous Walter's Wiggles (named for Walter Ruesch, a Zion Park building foreman), a slithering corkscrew of 21 tight switchbacks boosting the trail out of Refrigerator Canyon and up to the Scout Lookout/Angel's Landing area. Scenic toilets await. Comforting.
      Yet today we are on our way to the West Rim, and another exploration of the Landing will wait for a future trip. We kid ourselves that we can visit it on the way back down from the West Rim. Right. This is one amazing trail, contouring through slickrock swales and bobbing through canyons, yet always affording tremendous panoramic views. Mostly it's up. Today, we are in the shade of the rim part of the hike and where the tread is soil, it's often frozen as hard as the surfaced trail.
      Finally, we're on the grade incised into sandstone climbing to the Rim. Up here, surrounded by Ponderosa, there are bits of ice in the spring and lovely views across the basin.
      After lunch, we march back to the TH, snapping photos of glowing reflections of Zion monarchs along the way.
      Trail Summary: From the Grotto TH, hike briefly along the river, then climb steeply to Scout Lookout, via the dizzying Walter's Wiggles. At Scout Lookout, a side trail leads to Angel's Landing - atop a narrow fin of sandstone. The West Rim Trail continues on an old CCC trail (paved!) which is blasted into sheer Navajo Sandstone along part of the route to the rim.

Map - A map of this GPS track/map to the West Rim can be seen below. Change the map type (topo, terrain, etc.) and alter the scale as you wish. Click "bigger map" text below map if you want a larger map.

pano - from the West Rim of Zion - scroll L-R to view it 
all (3710 x 900 pixels, 980kb)
pano - from the West Rim of Zion - scroll L-R to view it all (3710 x 900 pixels, 980kb)
(Click the image for the full-size image)

Zion Day 2 - The West Rim

Click thumbnail to see full size image
wzion-2011-day2-1  morning start Virgin River.jpg (224169 bytes)

wzion-2011-day2-1 morning start Virgin River.jpg

wzion-2011-day2-2 morning rays.jpg (243165 bytes)

wzion-2011-day2-2 morning rays.jpg

wzion-2011-day2-3 CCC trail.jpg (273293 bytes)

wzion-2011-day2-3 CCC trail.jpg

wzion-2011-day2-4 Refrigerator Can.jpg (211901 bytes)

wzion-2011-day2-4 Refrigerator Can.jpg

wzion-2011-day2-5 Walters Wiggles.jpg (365943 bytes)

wzion-2011-day2-5 Walters Wiggles.jpg

wzion-2011-day2-6 upstream from Scout Lookout.jpg (210153 bytes)

wzion-2011-day2-6 upstream from Scout Lookout.jpg

wzion-2011-day2-7 West Rim Trail.jpg (426170 bytes)

wzion-2011-day2-7 West Rim Trail.jpg

wzion-2011-day2-8 West Rim Trail.jpg (298968 bytes)

wzion-2011-day2-8 West Rim Trail.jpg

wzion-2011-day2-9  almost up.jpg (413107 bytes)

wzion-2011-day2-9 almost up.jpg

wzion-2011-day2-10 down the CCC trail.jpg (416281 bytes)

wzion-2011-day2-10 down the CCC trail.jpg

wzion-2011-day2-11 looking at W rim.jpg (489755 bytes)

wzion-2011-day2-11 looking at W rim.jpg

wzion-2011-day2-12 another Scout Lookout view.jpg (183485 bytes)

wzion-2011-day2-12 another Scout Lookout view.jpg

wzion-2011-day2-13 refrig can at dusk.jpg (52159 bytes)

wzion-2011-day2-13 refrig can at dusk.jpg

wzion-2011-day2-14 K wiggles down.jpg (436031 bytes)

wzion-2011-day2-14 K wiggles down.jpg

wzion-2011-day2-15 trailing out.jpg (182359 bytes)

wzion-2011-day2-15 trailing out.jpg

wzion-2011-day2-16 Virgin sunset.jpg (132367 bytes)

wzion-2011-day2-16 Virgin sunset.jpg

wzion-2011-day2-17 eye to eye.jpg (308430 bytes)

wzion-2011-day2-17 eye to eye.jpg

wzion-2011-day2-18 Jug Arch.jpg (231858 bytes)

wzion-2011-day2-18 Jug Arch.jpg

pano - Kathleen hikes the West Rim of Zion - scroll L-R to view it 
all (7960 x 900 pixels, 1.64mb)
pano - Kathleen hikes the West Rim of Zion - scroll L-R to view it all (7960 x 900 pixels, 1.64mb)
(Click the image for the full-size image)

pano - scenic toilets at Scout Lookout, Zion - scroll L-R to view it 
all (2469 x 900 pixels, 872kb)
pano - scenic toilets at Scout Lookout, Zion - scroll L-R to view it all (2469 x 900 pixels, 872kb)
(Click the image for the full-size image)

Scenic Toilets of Zion 2011

Click thumbnail to see full size image
wzion-2011-scenic toilet 1 watchman.jpg (268532 bytes)

wzion-2011-scenic toilet 1 watchman.jpg

wzion-2011-scenic toilet 2 watchman.jpg (479972 bytes)

wzion-2011-scenic toilet 2 watchman.jpg

wzion-2011-scenic toilet 3 watchman.jpg (278901 bytes)

wzion-2011-scenic toilet 3 watchman.jpg

wzion-2011-scenic toilet 4 weeping wall.jpg (131691 bytes)

wzion-2011-scenic toilet 4 weeping wall.jpg

wzion-2011-scenic toilet 5 watchman.jpg (194398 bytes)

wzion-2011-scenic toilet 5 watchman.jpg

wzion-2011-scenic toilet 6 grotto.jpg (414055 bytes)

wzion-2011-scenic toilet 6 grotto.jpg

wzion-2011-scenic toilet 7 grotto.jpg (373931 bytes)

wzion-2011-scenic toilet 7 grotto.jpg

wzion-2011-scenic toilet 8 scout lookout.jpg (240172 bytes)

wzion-2011-scenic toilet 8 scout lookout.jpg

wzion-2011-scenic toilet 9 scout lookout.jpg (115407 bytes)

wzion-2011-scenic toilet 9 scout lookout.jpg

deficit causes and consequences
deficit causes and consequences
click this thumbnail for full size image

tea bagger agenda - fool us twice bushco
tea bagger agenda - fool us twice bushco -- click for article
click this thumbnail for full size image

bushco legacy
bushco legacy
click this thumbnail for full size image

only bushco tax cuts for the rich are important
only bushco tax cuts for the rich are important
click this thumbnail for full size image

know your corporate sponsors
know your corporate sponsors
click this thumbnail for full size image

corporate taxes plummet
corporate taxes plummet
click this thumbnail for full size image

corporate representative
corporate representative
click this thumbnail for full size image

bushco new and improved
bushco new and improved
click this thumbnail for full size image

tea bagger nihilists
tea bagger nihilists
click this thumbnail for full size image

Definition of NIHILISM - 1: a: a viewpoint that traditional values and beliefs are unfounded and that existence is senseless and useless b:a doctrine that denies any objective ground of truth and especially of moral truths
2: a doctrine or belief that conditions in the social organization are so bad as to make destruction desirable for its own sake independent of any constructive program or possibility

wall street laxative
wall street laxative
click this thumbnail for full size image

the GOP and representative government
the GOP and representative government
click thumbnail for full size image

A Wall Street banker, a Tea Partier and an Occupy Wall Street protester were sitting at a table. In the middle of the table was a plate with 12 cookies. The Banker quickly grabbed 11, turned to the Tea Partier and said, "You better watch out for that one, he wants a piece of your cookie!"

Going to church doesn't make you a Christian any more than standing in a garage makes you a car.

"Reality has a well-known liberal bias." - Stephen Colbert.

“If a free society cannot help the many who are poor, it cannot save the few who are rich.” - John F. Kennedy

The Top 0.1% Of The Nation Earn Half Of All Capital Gains, by Robert Lenzner, Forbes.com (11-20-2011)
      Capital gains are the key ingredient of income disparity in the US-- and the force behind the winner takes all mantra of our economic system. If you want even out earning power in the U.S, you have to raise the 15% capital gains tax.
      Income and wealth disparities become even more absurd if we look at the top 0.1% of the nation's earners-- rather than the more common 1%. The top 0.1%-- about 315,000 individuals out of 315 million -- are making about half of all capital gains on the sale of shares or property after 1 year; and these capital gains make up 60% of the income made by the Forbes 400.
      It's crystal clear that the Bush tax reduction on capital gains and dividend income in 2003 was the cutting edge policy that has created the immense increase in net worth of corporate executives, Wall St. professionals and other entrepreneurs.
      The reduction in the tax from 20% to 15% continued the step-by-step tradition of cutting this tax to create more wealth. It had first been reduced from 35% in 1978 at a time of stock market and economic stagnation to 28% . Again 1981, at the start of the Reagan era, it was reduced again to 20%-- raised back to 28% in 1987, on the eve of the October 19 232% crash in the market. In 1997 Clinton agreed to reduce it back to 20%, which move was an inducement for the explosion of hedge funds and private equity firms-- the most "rapidly rising cohort within the top 1 per cent."
      Make no mistake; the battle that is to be fought over the coming attempt to reverse this reduction in capital gains will be bloody and intense. The facts are clear according to the Congressional Budget Office more than 80% of the increase in income inequality was the result of an increase in the share of household income from capital gains. In fact, you can go so far as to claim that "Capital Gains income is the most unevenly distributed-- and volatile-- source of household income," according to Laura D'Andrea Tyson, University of California business professor and former chairwoman of the Council of Economic Advisers under President Clinton.
      No wonder the super wealthy plutocrats obtained the largest share of national income-- 25% of the nation's wealth- greater than any other industrial nation in the the period of 1979 to 2005. Make no mistake; after unemployment-- this disparity between the 1%-- 3 million-- or the 0.1%-- the 300,000-- and the other 312 million citizens of the U.S. has become the major theme of the Occupy Wall Street movement-- and an important national debate.
      I commend you to the late Justice Louis Brandeis warning to the nation that " We can have democracy in this country, or we can have great wealth concentrated in the hands of a few, but we can't have both." We have to make up our minds to restore a higher, fairer capital gains tax to the wealthiest investor class-- or ultimately face increased social unrest.

Links:

Sites:

Other WV reports about the Grand Canyon:

Thundering the North Rim (1999)

Rafting the Colorado (2000)

Roaring the Redwall (2002)

Jumping Up Into Kanab Creek Wilderness (2004)

Jumping Up into Thundering River (2005)

Eponymous Clear Creek of the Grand Canyon (2007)

Bodacious Beamer (2007)

Slog and Flog South Canyon (2007)

Hermit Hiatus (2008)

Escalante Escalade (2008)

North Rim Day Rambles (2008)

Gnarly Nankoweap (2008)

Precious Canyon Gems: Hermit to South Bass (2009)

Grapevine Galleria of the Grand Canyon: Bright Angel to Grandview on Tonto East (2009)

Torrid Tapeats - Fishtail Frolic: Thunder River-Colorado-Deer Cr. - North Rim (2009)

Hallowed Grand Canyon: Cool Running in The Canyon - BA to Cottonwood to Indian Gardens to Hermit Rest via the Tonto Trail (2009)

Transcendental Trans-Tonto (TTT): Tanner TH to South Bass – about 114 miles: Transnavigation of the Tonto Trail and Escalante Route in The Grand Canyon (2010)

Chilly Cheyava Clear (NOT) Creek: Largest falls of the Grand Canyon, Cheyava Falls (2010)

Chocolate Nougat Nankoweap (2010)

Evocative Escalante: Backpacking the Grand Canyon: Tanner Trail - Beamer Trail - Tonto Trail - out Grandview Trail (2011)

Royal Arch Rhapsody: Standard Loopo to Royal Arch - and back - via South Bass TH (2011)

Horsewhip Horsethief Trail (Nankoweap-Kwagunt-Malgosa; 2011)

Other WV reports about Yellowstone:

Yellowstone Winterlike Llamalot: Llama-packing Ferris Fork & Bechler Meadow, 1999

Other WV reports about Zion:

Snow Angel: Dayhiking in Zion N.P., 1998

Cathedral of The Narrows, 2001

Zenith of Zion Zen, Zion Through-hike, 2004

Ode to Orderville! Touring Orderville Canyon and THE Subway of Zion, 2007

Related sites:

Click here to see The Archman's site on Utah and area arches.

Ben's Scenic USA - Picture of the Day.

Scenic Toilets of Inner Earth

Click here to see Steve's excellent photos - birds in flight, panoramas, etc.

MP3 sound recording of an elk bugeling

A well-regulated wilderness - why not cover the wilds with ORVs? (NY Times)

(mp3 file - sound recording) NPR - facing planetery enemy no 1 - agriculture 10-12-2011

7 billion and counting - will anyone survive?

World population clock - watch the number spin, geometrically, and be frightened, very frightened.

Arithmetic, population, and energy - the geometric function (youtube mini-lecture on math)


Wild Vagabond Main   Trip Report Index   Caveat