I concur, and felt I needed a break from the desicration of the Bill of Rights, the rape of open country and open space and open democracy by bushco. As a stress-reduction aide, I decide to go repair in the wildlands of Kanab Creek Wilderness.

    This is a hike for the serious, not the casual, adventurer. Little (perhaps three miles) of the route supports a trail, and about half of that is incredibly steep. Depending on the time of year, you might be alternately toasted by the sun and hypothermic in chilled Kanab Creek. There are lots of boulders and rocks on which to twist a precious knee or ankle. So, beware, and I hope you enjoy this trip report.

Night 1: Brian Bound: It’s Saturday and I am traveling to Brian Head, Utah to stay at Craig’s place. I arrived at 11 p.m. and Craig and I were up talking good trips until 1 a.m. Oh those caffeine tremors, I thought, as I jiggled to sleep.

Day 1 - Jumpup down to Mountain Sheep Spring. (1-2 miles?): It’s Sunday and Escobar's in Kanab is open (except for Saturdays - imagine that!). I have a permit for 3 but due to conflicts and such, I am going solo. Kathleen is burned out after 3 hikes in a row (The Maze, Salt Creek, and the Paria Canyons). Craig is enjoying his new lady friend and nephew graduation.

    I left the snow of Brian Head for the relative warmth of Fredonia, AZ. Then, it’s 50 miles off the highway over 2 hours, on FS 22, 435 and 233 to JumpUp/Nail TH #8 at SowatsTH.

     It’s already been a long day, yet I start down the very steep trail after final packing, leaving the truck at 5 p.m. The trail is so steep that I find myself sliding on some sections. Yikes. Jumping down onto what appears to be the Esplanade level, I wandered around in a clump of Cottonwoods I thought must harbor Mountain Sheep Spring, but found only a bit of moist dirt. Continuing on, I found the spring and camped on overlooking slickrock a bit after 6 p.m. With the poor maps that I have, I’m just not feeling OK about going on into the dusk. Refreshing, fresh water for dinner, some wandering around the big back yard and then it’s - Dark now, 9:07 UT time, as poor wills and chukars sing the end of the day.

Day 2: I’ll have a shower and a bath, please: To Showerbath Spring (7 hiking hours; to Lower JumpUp Spring and into Kanab Creek). Rock me to a Shower! I hum as the friendly waters of Kanab Creek burble over the in-construction beaver dam and delightful spring water patters into the creek from its overhanging fern garden. Far down canyon the black smudged, reddish sheer walls of this deeply entrenched canyon glow faintly pink. The patter and burble sound deluxe after many hours of boulder and sand. Crunching over the gravels in the desiccated lower regions of Jumpup Canyon. Gyrating through the dry and watermelon-size rock-strewn upper Kanab Canyon. And Thankfully, clouds have again settled in - this is what made the trip to Showerbath doable - it was cooler because of cloud cover.

     My leg muscles are complaining some while the biting midges nibble my ears, and I stomach a more than generous second portion of potatoes, TVP (textured vegetable protein), and peas. It’s already getting late, yet I enjoy a shower from the spring and set up my Walrus mini tent (bugs). Here is a recap of the day (recall this is down-stream hiking on a fairly cool day):

    Elapsed Time:

     1 hr, 20 min To Jumpup Canyon. (Jump down Jumpup)

    30 Lower Jumpup Spring. and Pictos - Good water here (No water from here to Spring a mile above Showerbath Spring)

    30 A Canyon - which goes N (not seen easily on map)

    20 A Canyon goes East (Kwagunt Hollow?) Narrows start

    20 A side Canyon - goes E - Indian Hollow?

    1hr, 20 A large Canyon, Goes N and S (Kanab Creek) - camps on bench Turn left (South) and hike down Kanab Creek.

     1hr, 30 Spring and small camp - start of flow of permanent water to the river

     15 A Canyon goes SE

     45 Showerbath Spring - arrive 5:30 p.m.

     From Camp 1 at Mountain Sheep Spring, I hike along what I believe is the Esplanade. These flat benches feel like those we hiked during our journey to Thunder River/ Deer Creek. Is it the same formation? I am cruising along the Esplanade when the trail drops sharply into Jumpup Canyon, sometimes on gargantuan man-made stairs. I lounge in the fading morning shade of the last of the big steps and notice that the Ranger Trail continues across this, Jumpup, canyon. Wondering if this is the right place, I drift down canyon, thinking I may have made a huge mistake (because of poor planning, the section to Lower Jumpup Spring is not on my maps - yikes). In half an hour I see Cottonwoods and the delightful Lower Jumpup Spring, repleat with camps and a few pictos (mostly hand prints). The water runs - today at least - for half a mile to the next canyon. I drink some, filter some, contemplated a lot, drink some more, then continue. After Kwagunt Hollow Canyon, the narrows appear - and never end all the way to The River. About 20 minutes of gazing at and wandering in the towering, narrowing limestone tube of Jumpup, another (Indian Hollow?) canyon joins in from the East. It’s a long boulder and gravel dry bounce to the junction with Kanab Creek and then another 4 miles to flowing water - probably an 8 (more?) mile dry stretch - then another 1 or more to Showerbath - making for a very long day. I was relieved and happy when I encountered the water - icky ponds of scum at first, then flowing! It’s probably better to hike from Lower Jumpup to Showerbath (or vice versa) rather than from Mountain Sheep - even then, it could be a long day.

Day 3: 1 and ½ Days to Whispering Falls, Tuesday (7 Hrs.): I sit lethargically on my gray polished limestone perch, gazing mindlessly at the entrance to what I suspect is Whispering Falls, rumored to be more of a slide, the Slide of Susurrus, yet I’m not certain. No, I have not yet explored it because I passed it on the way down canyon, thinking it could not be the place. At this time of first passing I was not sure it was the only West canyon below Scotty’s Castle. I believe that now, now that I am back at this point I passed a few hours ago, I know this side canyon contains the slide, having blundered on and on, hiking closer to the river than I’d like to report.

     The fun started right out of Showerbath with a boulder climb - minor, yet there were many more. I tried to keep my boots dry, foolishly, then got well-soaked near the castle. I could have waded the deep pool opposite the boulder route.

     It was slow going nearly all day - climbing around boulder jams. I got wet, including slipping off a rock and going face first into Kanab Creek. I was exhausted after hiking down near the river (which of course I did not realize I was close to the river until the next day), and scanning for hanging canyons to compare to my map, when, zip, pow, I was under water. My bwana pack pushed me flat on the creek bed rocks. I could feel my glasses wrapping around my head, then flailed and wrestled with my pack until I could get it off. Although I have a knot on my head, I worry if my camera is OK. Thankfully, it seems to be in working order.

     I saw a fine cascade in Scotty’s Hollow and a fearless Bighorn Sheep near the pseudo castle. I enjoyed the aroma of blowing mesquite pollen and the ever- towering walls. To recap: Time: (Showerbath Spring to Slide of Susurrus Canyon)

     45 Min Showerbath to Scotty’s Hollow (slow)

     1hr, 30 min To cave - S side of Pseudo Scotty’s Castle (Mixed - Boulders and some ok walking)

     ? 4Hrs ? To Slide of Susurrus Canyon (Boulders!! Wading, possible swimming!)

    There’s a cave (camping in it would be OK) on the South side of Pseudo Scotty’s Castle. I hiked into the heat, sure the Slide canyon must be close (after already passing it). I stumbled along slowly, finally stopped, and hiked on without a pack - fortunately running into Nick (only the second person I have seen). He told me I missed the side canyon, the Slide of Susurrus, AKA Whispering Falls, as he had when he hiked here solo in 2001. Nick is on a huge trip over to Tapeats/Thunder River and predicted tomorrow will be tough as his group hikes along the river and over to Deer Creek. Tough? Yikes! What was today? He guessed where we were and we hiked on to what I suspect is the last East canyon before the River and a hanging canyon. Which is not obvious! Yikes again.

     I struggled back to my pack and slightly recovered while slumped against the cooling wall, feet slung akimbo into Kanab Creek. Then, I returned to camp where I had been 3 hrs. ago - across from the canyon, which holds the (suspected) Slide of Susurrus. The mouth of the Canyon holding the Slide of Susurrus is dry and narrow, not what one would suspect contains the fabled Whispering Falls, AKA The Slide of Susurrus. Is this the way? Tomorrow will tell, because the bats are already buzing, as is my stove for dinner.

     It looks like fairly easy walking to the river - Nick says there may be one more boulder jam. Thanks, Nick.

Day 4: Slide of What!? Take me to the River - THE River: I’m gazing at 1200 vertical feet of redrock walls as the last glow of sunlight inches toward the top, then fades into pink, and then dark umber. I’m on my second bowl of spaghetti with home-grown dried tomatoes and a fine garnish of dried (instant) hummus and parmesan cheese - yum. This meal would be fine without the cheese (and more durable in this heat, I suspect). I feel much better now.

     I got up to a queasy stomach, which hassled me until nearly dinner time. What is it? A bug? Too many ibuprofin? The heat? Anxiety about george bushco, raping our environment and selling fear? Probably that. I packed a day pack and went up to enjoy church at the Slide of Susurrus, AKA Whispering Falls. Deluxe and wow! Crystal pools, amazing rocks, slithering slide, replete with a “champagne” surface. As water drops into the pool from overhanging springs, the pool appears effervescent. And, all this is easily missed.... It’s the only (?) East canyon from the cave to the river which has a mouth at creek level (the other canyons are hanging).

     Then, take me to THE River! In 2 hrs. of steady rambling, I see the canyon broaden a bit and I hear a dull roar. Then, I see the thundering jade of the Colorado as it flies into Kanab Rapids at River Mile 143. I’m greeted by Mr. Red- headed Lizard, a lusty, lounging, love lizard, The King of Kanab Creek, and that’s it (he definitely is in full breeding colors; see the opening photo). No boaters, no hikers, no loungers except us lizards. I park my old carcass under some tamarisk. And, the river roars, sand blows a bit, the clouds move in and I move out, yet first a brief dip in the frosty Colorado. Lounging my way back to camp, I take an hour nap on one of the Limestone walkways, dreaming of thighs and smelling rich olive oil, fragrant as I cook a scrumptious fetta cheese and potato omelette.

"...the great Canyon endures. The Canyon endures the trifling busyness of humans as it does the industry of ants, the trickle-down erosion of snow and freeze, the cascade of floods, the transient insult of Glen Canyon Dam. These things shall pass, the Canyon will outlive them all."Edward Abbey, from a forward to A River Runner's Guide to the History of the Grand Canyon by Kim Crumbo, Johnson Books, 1981.