Gnarly Nankoweap:
Grand Canyon Trip Report - Nankoweap Trail / Tilted Mesa / Nankoweap Creek / Colorado River / Kwagunt exploration
 
(September 28 - October 4, 2008)
Text © copyright by Rob; and Photos © copyright by Rob

  With after-backpack ancient arch hunting in the Paria-Vermillion Cliffs Wilderness: Vermillion, Flame, and Melody Arches; October 5 - 8, 2008

Co-Adventurers: Sonia Gauvin Bourassa, Martine Gauvin, & Rob

Click here to jump to my after-backpack exploration for ancient arches.

Click here to see Sonia's trip reports about GC hiking, and another report version about this adventure.

pano from the top of Tilted Mesa - scroll L-R to view it 
all (3024 pixels wide)
pano from the top of Tilted Mesa (Right) - scroll L-R to view it all (3024 pixels wide, 404kb)
(Click the image for the full-size image)
(There are - 27 photos and a few panos embedded in the trip narrative.)

Gnarly = Remarkable; outstanding. Or - Full of knots; knotty; twisted; crossgrained.

     Total trip miles hiked = 39.3, ERM = 71.5.
     ERM = Energy Required Miles. A mile is added for every 500' elevation gain or loss. It's a very serviceable method of estimating energy required miles.

Map - GC:  Saddle Mountain - Nankoweap - Colorado River
Map - GC: Saddle Mountain - Nankoweap - Colorado River
(Click the image to see the map)

for a full-resolution map, click here. Caution - do not use this map or gps track for navigating the route.

Day 1 at the TH
Day 1 at the TH
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Saddle Mtn.
Saddle Mtn.
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Pass at Saddle Mtn.
Pass at Saddle Mtn.
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Starting down - into the park
Starting down - into the park
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Marion Point
Marion Point
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Marion Pt. View
Marion Pt. View
(Click the image for a full-size view)

(There are - More photos below the trip narrative.)

     Day 1: Over the saddle: House Rock Valley TH to Tilted Mesa; 8.1 miles, ERM of 15 (approx. 1900' ascent and 2300' descent over 8.1 miles).
     (Previous day) The drive into the Saddle Mountain TH, via House Rock Valley Road, is nearly 30 miles of good dirt and gravel. Good, but a lot of it. I meet the lovelies Sonia and Marine at the TH and we gaze at the saddle while enjoying dinner. Sonia is the permit-holder, and has graciously invited me along on this adventure.

     (Back to Day 1) The view of buttes and open space explodes as we reach the saddle, yoweee, 3.5 miles and 1200' up (and 400' elevation loss along the way). Through the bits of P-Pines, juniper, Pinyon Pine - air tour conveyor belt noise pollution assaults us as we pause for a snack at the junction of Trail 57 on the Kaibab NF and the park boundary. It's a corner of Trail 57 where all the routes converge at the saddle. Symmetry on the map. (Martine later counts over 30 helicopters and several more airplanes in one day.)
     It's very slow going to Marion Point, where there is an angled place for a camp. At least sort-of (I would not wish to camp here). Sonia stashes her second water cache (the 1st was at the saddle) of 1.5 liters. Everything is in liters to these French-Canadians from the land to the North. Accurate. The trail is barely edged into the rock bands. We pass scary parts and swing into a cove, where there is a pygmy forest, in the shade of the declining sun.
     Undulating to Tilted Mesa, the day grows late as my feet grow flat. Noting our slow progress, I go on ahead and find a camp, then continue on and find another - looking for the best there is. I stopped as the Redwall takes over and cache my extra gallon of water. The clouds begin to obscure the gathering stars.
     Lightning showers down with two brief rain gusts. We, the women and I, have camped separately because I went farther along toward Tilted Mesa and they camped at the first decent camp with the engulfing darkness. We are fortunate to be in the gnarly Nankoweap of the Grand Canyon. It's beyond the crepuscular as the wind calms and the stars again fill the canopy.

pano from trail, with Tilted Mesa low left center (at base of red slope) - scroll L-R to view it 
all (2966 pixels wide)
pano from trail, with Tilted Mesa low left center (at base of red slope) - scroll L-R to view it all (2966 pixels wide, 384kb)
(Click the image for the full-size image)

day 1 Tilted Mesa sunset
day 1 Tilted Mesa sunset
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Day 2- sliding off Tilted Mesa
Day 2- sliding off Tilted Mesa
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Day 2- Nankoweap Lounging
Day 2- Nankoweap Lounging
(Click the image for a full-size view)

(There are - More photos below the trip narrative.)

     Day 2: Nankoweap Lounging - to Nankoweap Creek and a field of springs. 3 miles, 7 ERM.
     Gurgling, burbling, Nankoweap Creek courses through the boulders and across the sand as I cook last night's dinner for lunch. Cottonwoods and fresh water - deluxe.
     The trials of the edge trail yesterday and the steep slippery ball-bearing vigilance slide of today eases into nothingness in this garden zen of the North Rim country. It's quite warm today, and when we arrived, I rolled in a deep spot in the fresh waters of Nankoweap like a dog in horse manure.
     Is the option of camping at the boundary (TR 57 and NPS boundary) and then rambling to water (here) better than a dry camp at Tilted Mesa or near Marion Point? A beckoning question. Yet for now all I can say is - Nankoweap, delightful.

day 3 Hiking Nankoweap
day 3 Hiking Nankoweap
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Day 3 -lmost to the river
Day 3 - almost to the river
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Day 3- looking down river
Day 3- looking down river
(Click the image for a full-size view)

(There are - More photos below the trip narrative.)

     Day 3: The River, 3 miles, 5 ERM. Non-social rafters fail to ruin the day.
     Redwall glows as we enjoy dappled shade on a Nankoweap/Colorado beach. The constant video of Spanish Armada rafterians entertain Sonia, nearly as well as MTV does for teens. Beyond cold water cools the ambient air and creatures, including us, who begin to pop out for dinner. Refreshing.
     We started from the deluxe camp at the foot of the trail in Nankoweap Creek and wandered through brush and river boulders, suddenly encountering two stampedes of rafters heading up Nankoweap and across to Kwagunt - to be retrieved by other rafters from the mouth of Kwagunt Canyon. Silence returns. Ahh.
     On we wander, eventually reaching the spill-out past the ramparts. Hiding in the freckled shade, we slip out into the broasting sun for a frigid bath and to find the surface ruins, and to attempt to talk with taciturn boaters at the main beach - then retreat to the upper beach and are there when the Maryland group rolls in with beer but no other offerings. And, we had gregariously shared our private beach too. Oddly, this dour group had bragged to us about how they had contracted a Flagstaff-based group to organize their equipment and food, reporting that they had "So very much food they could not eat it all." Like bushco, the wealth is only for the wealthy. Despicable.
     The granaries watch like spectacles from afar as crepuscular brown bats and their feathered compadres start play time. We're near 2800' in elevation, way down from a high of 7300' in the saddle near Saddle Mountain. Of course, much of this elevation is lost, regained, lost again, etc. along this uneven trail and route. Undulational.
     Despite strong hints, we are not offered food, yet do acquire three cans of luscious beer. (No, I am not obsessing about food. Not at all, despite dreaming of smothered burritos and cool melons, other melons). The cool wafts of evening air compliment billions and billions of stars. And, it's so lovely to sleep clean after the grimy night at Tilted Mesa. The guide says it's 90 minutes from camp to river - while our time is twice that.
    Sweet evening air drifts along the Colorado corridor, engulfing us with a refreshing pneumatic ablution. Restorative.

day 3 pueblo ruin
day 3 pueblo ruin
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Day 3 why check your boots?
Day 3 why check your boots?
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Day 4- looking down river
Day 4 - looking down river
(Click the image for a full-size view)

(There are - More photos below the trip narrative.)

     Day 4: Granary Gazing, return to Nankoweap, 3 miles, 5 ERM.
     Ancient aura arises from pueblo-era granaries and drifts over us as we watch the sun rays peek into the canyon of the Colorado. Canyon vistas from high up, yet from the bottom of the soaring Redwall layer. Then, back to pack and, with the intruding sun, begin the rock walk to Nankoweap camp. Shocks of shade save the day. We meet Eric and Michelle from Wisconsin - hiking down the Nankoweap, and planning to cross the river at the Little Colorado and hike the Beamer and then the Tanner Trails. Yikes. And, this is their first GC hike? Lovely.
     Female French voices murmur up from the glissading Nankoweap Creek as I doze from too much lunch. Again, we're enjoying the deluxe delight of Nankoweap Creek camp. A warbler warbles cheerily. A giant water boatman lazily strokes the rapids of Nankoweap Creek. The sun glares as I shade beneath the craggy Cottonwood beside the burbling spring of this fine camp.
     My GPS track was saved at the granary above the Colorado, stating: 16.0 miles, 2725' of ascending, 5200' of descending. And, this is roughly half the trip.

pano of river and granaries - scroll L-R to view it 
all (1394 pixels wide)
pano of river and granaries - scroll L-R to view it all (1394 pixels wide, 204kb)
(Click the image for the full-size image)

day 4 Martine
Martine, Day 4
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Day 4 - Sonia at ruins
Day 4 - Sonia at ruins
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Day 4- Sonia
Day 4- Sonia
(Click the image for a full-size view)

(There are - More photos below the trip narrative.)

     Day 5: Kwagunt Krunch, 5.7 miles, 11 ERM; + Geology Canyon. (Route is camp to pass above Kwagunt = 1000' ascent over 1.75 miles.)
     The tilted and tortured rock layers thrust skyward like Stegosaurus plates, and Sonia and I walk the deteriorating shales and slates from several eons past. Deluxe. We're exploring the route from Nankoweap to Kwagunt. Despite the double gangs of river runners who hiked this way 2 days ago, the hard ground (mostly fractured rock) holds few tracks. The geology is fascinating, and the fault at the upstream side of Nankoweap Mesa has exposed a host of formations, layers, and groups. I hiked to the pass near Nankoweap Butte, where the descent begins into one of the Kwagunt arms, then return to our oasis camp of the Nankoweap.
    Earlier today, Sonia and I explored up a ridge (false start) and a side arm of Nankoweap farther up canyon, a canyon we dubbed "Geology Canyon."
     I'm back in camp enjoying a luxurious bath and an early dinner - because Martine and Sonia are leaving to camp near the backbone ridge - across the flats - at the foot of the route up the gnarly Tilted Mesa, and Sonia has the stove.
     Jason (who just hiked in from the upper TH) and I enjoy the quick local sunset of Nankoweap camp and the Carl Sagan star party. Wondrous.

day 5 - Sonia on spine, Kwagunt
day 5 - Sonia on spine, Kwagunt
(Click the image for a full-size view)
day 5 - Sonia in Geology Canyon
day 5 - Sonia in Geology Canyon
(Click the image for a full-size view)
day 5 pass into Kwagunt
day 5 pass into Kwagunt
(Click the image for a full-size view)

     Day 6: Not in Nankoweap; 11 miles, 20 ERM. Camp in the Kaibab NF, just outside the park.
     The pebble free-falls off the Esplanade Sandstone ledge, 100 - 200 - 300 feet and out of sight. My, the trail is edged into space, I note. Airy.
     I started the day at Nankoweap Creek and ended here, just outside the park, alongside Trail 57. Wonderful clouds accompanied us nearly all day. Martine and Sonia got a head start on the climb by camping above the first knoll last night. I stayed by the cool waters and finally met them near Marion Point.
     Because of the poor camping (tilted) and the winds, we decide to move on. So, I am dragging the 5 liters of water from my truck, to Tilted Mesa, and back to this camp in the NF. It's windy and cold and a storm is felt near. It's dark enough to cease the writing and go warm up in my snuggly bag.
     The wind roared and shrieked and shrilled, like a freight train on steroids - bending the tent fly poles between my feet. It was a restless night.

day 5 - spider along route
day 5 - spider along route
(Click the image for a full-size view)
day 5 - spider along route 2
day 5 - spider along route 2
(Click the image for a full-size view)
day 6 - leaving Nankoweap
day 6 - leaving Nankoweap
(Click the image for a full-size view)

     Day 7: Damp in the Saddle, again, 3.5 miles, 6.5 ERM.
     "Damp in the Saddle again (repeat)" goes the country song from the mythical days of the cowboy. Only this time there is truth there as the saddle of Saddle Mountain is obscured by a grey shroud, a wet saddle blanket. Ahh, diversity.
     Martine and Sonia are seemingly up with the wind - making packing sounds between gusts of wind. Of course, the packing goes on, yet is not heard during the howls. Soon, we're almost ready to go, and we combine our extra water to fill my 3-quart orange juice container, which I hike back to the park boundary/Trail 57 for future thirsty hikers. Perhaps for hikers as unprepared as the 3 we saw yesterday - little water, no hiking poles, late in the day and headed for Nankoweap Creek. And this from before Marion Point at 3:30 pm. Not likely. The older man of the group was grumpy and controlling and behaved like gw bushco - calling Sonia's lilting accent "horrendous" and bragging about how he would hike fast downhill to Nankoweap Creek. Also, again, not likely. Sliding down the course rubble of Redwall Limestone below Tilted Mesa in a hurry seems as sentient as unprovoked "pre-emptive" war without cause. Cheese grater comes to mind, followed by a wondrous free-fall and abrupt stop. Stunning.
     Soon, we are in the 20 (now dry) crossings of the creek bed, then climbing up to the old road bed (abandoned, hurrah). Real rain ensues. Quick hugs and goodbyes at the TH. The long dust of road has settled. More, I say to myself, for there is no female French accent reply. Terrific trip, Sonia and Martine. Sonia, thanks for inviting me on this adventure. There will be more, and they too will be deluxe.

pano from Nankoweap Cr. (L & R), Tilted Mesa in certer - scroll L-R to view it 
all (2971 pixels wide)
pano from Nankoweap Cr. (L & R), Tilted Mesa in certer - scroll L-R to view it all (2971 pixels wide, 480kb)
(Click the image for the full-size image)

day 6 - first level up
day 6 - first level up
(Click the image for a full-size view)
day 6 - not so scary part
day 6 - not so scary part
(Click the image for a full-size view)
day 7, back through the rain
day 7, back through the rain
(Click the image for a full-size view)

Next, the after-backpack excursions in the Paria-Vermillion Cliffs Wilderness
Vermillion, Flame, and Melody Arches

October 5 - 8, 2008

Looking through a Melody Arch
Looking through a Melody Arch
(Click the image for the full-size image)

Melody (Vreeland 12-2) Arches view 1 - pano
Melody (Vreeland 12-2) Arches view 1 - panorama
(Image is wide - scroll left-right to view it (916 x 490; 144kb) - Click the image for the full-size image)

Map - Vermillion Arch; 3 miles
Map - Vermillion Arch; 3 miles
(Click the image to see the map)

Map - Flame Arch; 6 miles
Map - Flame Arch; 6 miles
(Click the image to see the map)

Map - Melody or Vreeland Arch; 9 miles
Map - Melody or Vreeland Arch; 9 miles
(Click the image to see the map)

     Day1 - same as Day 7 of backpack.. A rainy day.
     It's hat and pile jacket cool as I enjoy the last of the cake Kathleen made for the democratic-repulsican debate well over a week ago. It has stayed fresh in the 6-day cooler, which has a sliver of ice left today.
     I got gas and 2 blocks of ice at Marble Canyon and enjoyed a hot shower - it being too cool for a sun shower. Rain, and no sun for ye old sol bag.
     After checking in at home, I continued on 89A and up (North) the House Rock Valley Road along the Western edge of the Vermillion Cliffs. Vistas. I parked about a mile from Vermillion Arch, which I hope to hunt tomorrow. Sleepy time.

Vermillion Arch View 1
Vermillion Arch View 1
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Vermillion Arch View 2
Vermillion Arch View 2
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Vermillion Arch View 3
Vermillion Arch View 3
(Click the image for a full-size view)

     Day 2: Vermillion Arch; 3 miles, 5 ERM.
     Somewhere above, right over there, is the arch. Yet, I am below a cliff band and I have walked around the spring area (below), and still not found a way through. Drat. I keep going and eventually find an easy to scramble break.
     It's a lovely arch and I get under it. The way back is much easier (as shown on the map in this report). Then, the teeth-rattling drive to Stateline camp for a shower and some lounging. Along the way, I pass Double-Barrel Arch, which can be seen to the East about a mile from the road - 9 miles up from the junction with 89A.

Click here to see Double-barrel Arch and its Totem

     Day3: Flame-out at Wire Pass; 6 miles, 8 ERM.
     Trudging through the fine rust-colored, iron-enriched sand, I admire the stone teepees while scouting for Flame Arch. There - there is perhaps an opening on the opposite hillside. Yes, it's Flame Arch, not far from the route to The Wave. Note that the arch is in a Special Management Area for Coyote Buttes North, and a permit may be required to visit the area.
     After a photo fest at Flame Arch, I backtracked to the gulch and continued on the Wire Pass route - to its intersection with Buckskin. Ahh, the petros on the flank of the curve. Wonderful. Then, back to camp for a shower and to write this with accompaniment of a P-Pine and sage fire. Deluxe.
     My late start today was due to extended talks with two German explorers. Clear and very cool after local sunset.

Flame Arch View 1
Flame Arch View 1
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Flame Arch View 2
Flame Arch View 2
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Flame Arch View 3
Flame Arch View 3
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Flame Arch View 4
Flame Arch View 4
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Wire Pass Entrance
Wire Pass Entrance
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Garnish at Wire Pass
Garnish at Wire Pass
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Wire Pass Junction View 1
Wire Pass Junction View 1
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Wire Pass Junction View 2
Wire Pass Junction View 2
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Wire Pass Junction View 3
Wire Pass Junction View 3
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Wire Pass Petro 1
Wire Pass Petro 1
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Wire Pass Petro 2
Wire Pass Petro 2
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Slotster
Slotster
(Click the image for a full-size view)

Melody (Vreeland 12-2) Arches view 2 - pano
Melody (Vreeland 12-2) Arches view 2 - panorama
(Image is wide - scroll left-right to view it (1027 x 490; 160kb) - Click the image for the full-size image)

     Day 4: V is for Vreeland; 12-2. 9 miles, 19 ERM. See route on map, then look for an access on East side - probably you will need a permit for The Wave.
     Bumping on and around and amidst the corrugated Navajo Sandstone muffins, I'm finally arriving near the V 12-2 coordinates. And, where is the fabled arch? A sinking feeling rises as I see my direction needle swing back the way I came. What? No arch in view. Jostling through low white teepees, there it is! Wait, there are two arches. Elation. V for Vreeland!
     A gorgeous window into distant hoodoos and a slender propped buttress-type arch. Delightful. The camera shutter punctuates the find.
     And, what a route - with a not, definitely not recommended zigzag up an exposed checkered slickrock slant near the end of what I believe is Sand Cove. While inspecting the arches, I see footprints easily arriving from the East, suggesting an extension from The Wave, a more sensible route no doubt. One needs a full day to do the route I went. All the same, the lilting along the Navajo SS is wondrous and fine (note the view on the ridge photo). There's a good deal of elevation gained and lost, etc. along this route (see the map link).
     I returned to camp to find Dinah D., a retiring Biology Prof from the U of U to Portal, AZ, and she tells me of her work with suicidal exploding ants of the rain forest. Fascinating.
     Another crisp evening is punctuated by the song dog, the trickster coyote, and a small owl. Harmony.

Melody (Vreeland 12-2) Arches view 3 - pano
Melody (Vreeland 12-2) Arches view 3 - panorama
(Image is wide - scroll left-right to view it (965 x 490; 160kb) - Click the image for the full-size image)

Melody Arches View 1
Melody Arches View 1
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Melody Arches View 2
Melody Arches View 2
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Melody Arches View 3
Melody Arches View 3
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Melody Arches View 4
Melody Arches View 4
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Along ridge to Melodies
Along ridge to Melodies
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Sculpture on ridge
Sculpture on ridge
(Click the image for a full-size view)

Links:

Maps:

Map - GC:  Saddle Mountain - Nankoweap - Colorado River
Map - GC: Saddle Mountain - Nankoweap - Colorado River
(Click the image to see the map)

for a full-resolution map, click here. Caution - do not use this map or gps track for navigating the route.

Map - Vermillion Arch; 3 miles
Map - Vermillion Arch; 3 miles
(Click the image to see the map)

Map - Flame Arch; 6 miles
Map - Flame Arch; 6 miles
(Click the image to see the map)

Map - Melody or Vreeland Arch; 9 miles
Map - Melody or Vreeland Arch; 9 miles
(Click the image to see the map)

Map - Double-Barrel Arch; 2 miles
Map - Double-Barrel Arch; 2 miles
(Click the image to see the map)

Sites:

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