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Al - Paintbrush
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Al - Aaron winds down
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Breezy Point Arch1
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Breezy Point Arch2
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Hermit Trail Bottom1
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Hermit Trail Bottom2
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(There are - More photos below the trip narrative.)
Day 1: Hermit Hiatus: Hermit Rest TH to Hermit Creek Camp, 8.5 miles, 4340' descent, 690' ascent. ERM = 17.5, high of 6700', camp at 2900'.
The Monkey Flowers bob in the slight breeze, a phalanx of them stride along burbling Hermit Creek. Here, installed in camp amidst the Tapeats layer, we are camped for the first night of our journey. Screaming yellow composites, Brittlebush, form a haze over the hills of the Tonto. Flowers of many colors and formation grace this big ditch. Al is cooking enchilada-style with refried beans and rice and assorted fresh veggies as Craig and I filter water.
The day started at 2:30 a.m. - too early for respectable hikers. On the road by 3:30 a.m. and on the shuttle by 6 - we are the last to be dropped at Hermit TH today, as the PS is rebuilding the road.
Wearing wool hat, gloves, fleece, it's not enough and I don't warm up until Santa Mari Spring - where I see a duo of scenic toilets.
Lateral, and lateral some more - past Lookout Point and Breezy Point (where we see an arch), finally to the Cathedral Stairs, where we spiral down on some amazing handicraft to the base of the Redwall, often its native bluish gray - and into a showy flower-studded starkness of the Tonto Plateau.
The rat sacks are hung with care as the sheer Redwall glows and the low-angle light glitters off the promulgation of composites, mallows, palmations, and such gracing the Tonto tilt.
Sleep comes suddenly with a background natural quiet of frogs that sound like Mountain Sheep ( a la Mtn. Sheep Spring along the Esplanade). A contrast with the constant intrusion from air tour terrorists, all day, all day, all day.
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Al - Hermit Creek
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Hermit Creek
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Hermit Cr. Garden
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Hermit Cr. Garden
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Crystaline structure
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Aaron - Hermit Cr.
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Craig - Hermit Cr.
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Hermit Cr Scenic Toilet1
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Hermit Cr Scenic Toilet2
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Hermit Cr Scenic Toilet3
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Hermit Rapids
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Hermit Rapids
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(There are - More photos below the trip narrative.)
Day 2: Hermit hiatal gap: Hermit Creek to Hermit Rapids, Colorado River., 4.0 miles, 1700' descent, 700' ascent, (total 1461); ERM = 7.0.
The Brittle Brush (the prevalent yellow composite flower) glows against the sparkling ebony schist of the GC basement group. We're hiking streamside through a garden of flowers. Above are the stratified layers of Tapeats SS and the beveled slopes of the Tonto. Ribs of Zoroaster Granite shine red and flakes of Mica glitter.
Nearing the river, we hear the roar of Hermit Rapids, which nearly overshadows the din of the national security risk air tours. (So much waste, so much pollution, so much intrusion.) After watching a private boater group run Hermit, we find a shady spot abutting the river for lunch. It's nearly hot as we return to camp. We swim in our private jacuzzi-stirred pond and lounge on warm polished boulders in the shade - awaiting local sunset in the main camp.
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Al - Mallow
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Spiny Lizard
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Hermit View
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Tonto Highlights
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Aaron on Tonto
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Al - Tonto1
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Al - Tonto2
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Mary & Al - Tonto3
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Al - Monument
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Monument from Tonto
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Sun rays - Tonto
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Craig - Monument Camp
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(There are - More photos below the trip narrative.)
Day 3: Monumental Monument. To Monument Creek, day hike to the River., 8 miles, ERM = 13.
Wind shrieks around the monument and up the canyon, pausing to swirl grit into everything we have. Pad Thai dinner and a swig to Zig, who is solo-riding the Southern Tier bike route, self-contained. Zig, is that the only excuse you can come up with that you are not here in the canyon with us? Way to go, Zig.
Click here to see Zig on the Southern Tier. Riding across the southern US, 2311 miles.
We started fairly early and climbed to the Tonto amidst a host of flowers. Views of the River and the Temple of Ra sprouted. Dropping into Monument Creek, we see the Monument, its base in pink Zoroaster Granite. A cool trickle of water appears and disappears not far from camp - resurfacing near the River, we find, as we walk the crushed rocks and marvel at wondrous swirls of Zoroaster Granite, pink against the ebony of Vishnu Schist.
We hide from the sun at Granite Rapids (seeing only one boater group), then return to the polished basement rock of the narrows of Monument Creek! A sluggish pink Grand Canyon Rattler wanders along with us, just prior to the narrows. A three-holer scenic toilet graces the skyline of camp.
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Narrows of Monument Cr.
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Narrows of Monument Cr.
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GC Buzz Worm
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GC Buzz Worm
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Monument Cr Scenic Toilet1
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Monument Cr Scenic Toilet2
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Monument Ridge Arch
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Zoroaster Granite Swirl
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Narrows of Monument Cr.
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Narrows of Monument Cr.-Craig
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Brittle Bush
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columbine
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(There are - More photos below the trip narrative.)
Day 4: Salty Dog: Monument to Salt Creek, explore Salt., 4.0 + canyon exploration; ERM = 7.0
Up in the coolness, praise the lard, that there is no wind. Back up on the Tonto we climb, pausing for morning flower photos and for a high 'monument ridge arch' photo. Around above the occasional background rumble of the River, we stroll, interrupted inhumanely by the incursion, assault, noise pollution of airborne terrorists, droning us all toward demise.
As it grows warm, we slip into Cedar Springs. Craig and I explore down canyon and find a decent flow of clear water. So much for the forecast of doom by Gertrude the Rangerette. Cactus bloom all about - delightful.
The wind rejoins us as we plod into Salt Creek Camp. No shade - but early local sunset is in the offering. Craig and I explore down toward the gigantic pour-off in Salt Creek, finding polished pink quartzite artfully inlaid in the black schist.
Wind pounds us at dinner (Mediterranean Couscous with pita bread and hummus) and on into the evening. A scenic toilet - again! It's cool enough for pants and a pile jacket. The tent flaps and moans like a teenage bridesmaid. What a panorama from the scenic toilet at dusk.
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four-oclock
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Monkey Flower
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group above the gorge
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group on Tonto
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Salt Cr Scenic Toilet1
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Salt Cr Scenic Toilet2
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Zoroaster in Salt Cr.
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Cedar Springs Window
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Horn Cr Scenic Toilet1
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Horn Cr Scenic Toilet2
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Granite Gorge
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republican Scenic Toilet1
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(There are - More photos below the trip narrative.)
Day 5: republican fall-out: Tonto to Indian Gardens,
visit Plateau Point., 10.6 miles, ERM = 17.
Sitting table-side in the lush, cool greenery of Indian
Gardens CG, my feet are rebounding to a semblance of their old shape. I'm contemplating
the republican fall-out toilets unique to the red states of America. The toilet for
uber-rich republicans is on the top tier, with everyone else relegated to the "trickle
down" section below. See the photos for inspiration. It's everything you voted for in
bushco, a widening gap between the two Americas, those that have the cash and everyone
else who has had their legal rights, jobs, civil rights, clean air and water, and futures
outsourced.
Starting out in nearly cold air, we leave the 200
degree arc splendid of Salt Creek Camp and lilt through the flower-infested slopes of
Tonto West. Pausing at Horn Creek, we find the camp compact and the toilet scenic.
Water flow is good and looks pure, despite its reputed trickle through the breccia pipe
associated with the nuke mine, Orphan Mine.
From Horn, it's a short 2.5 mile hop to the intersection
of Tonto West and the trail to Plateau Point.
Plodding into Indian Gardens, I find a Cottonwood-covered
site that contains dirt and roll on in. After some heel cooling in the CG, we venture out
to Plateau Point - excellent views. Della Yurick, Rangerette Dynamic, comes by for a
long chat, discussing how "service" is part of the title, "National Park Service."
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republican Scenic Toilet2
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By the foot
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Aaron on Plateau Point
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Craig on Plateau Point
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Bright Angel Scenic Toilet1
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Della and Rob
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Outlaws
(See in the parking lot - Click the image for the full-size image)
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Day 6: Earth Day in the dust - out the BA, 5.4
miles, ERM = 11.5. Total ascent for the trip = 9600', total descent for the trip = 8650'.
Total trip miles hiked = 40.5, ERM = 73.
It's Earth Day in the pulverized dust. We set out a bit
before 8 a.m. so we can chat with the backcountry office about the upcoming (tomorrow!)
Escalante Escalade adventure.
Earth on Earth Day in everything, the pulverized dust
of so many footprints, so many humongous carbon footprints that will drag us all into
the age of darkness. Overpopulation? Yes. Yet today we enjoy the inspiring views and
the dusky coolness of morning in the desert, the Hermit Hiatus drawing to a close.
Links:
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Map - GC: Hermit to IG, out BA; 2008; 41 miles
(Click the image to see the map)
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If you want to view a full-resolution map, click here. Caution - do not use this map or gps track for
navigating the route.
Click here to
see the second part of this GC adventure series. The Escalante Escalade!
Other WV reports about the Grand Canyon:
Click here or on the Looking Lizard to go to all WV reports about The Grand Canyon
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Looking for All Wilderness Vagabond trip reports about the Grand Canyon?
Click the image to go to All WV reports about The Grand Canyon
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