Hermit Hiatus:
Grand Canyon Trip Report - Hermit Rest / Hermit Creek / Monument Creek / Salt Creek / Tonto to Indian Gardens
 
(April 17 - 22, 2008)
Text © copyright by Rob; and Photos © copyright by Al and Rob

  The first of a two-part adventure

Co-Adventurers: Craig McCarthy, Aaron Jones, Mary and Al Herring, Kathleen & Rob

Click here to see the second part of this GC adventure series (The Escalante Escalade).

Along the Tonto Platform
Along the Tonto Platform
(by Al - Click the image for the full-size image)
(There are - More photos below the trip narrative.)

Hiatus = a break or interruption in the continuity of a work, series, action, etc. As in, our 'work' of roving the GC in all its grandness.
In Anatomy, a hiatus is a natural fissure, cleft, or foramen in a bone or other structure. This is one big ditch.
     Total trip miles hiked = 40.5, ERM = 73.
     ERM = Energy Required Miles. A mile is added for every 500' elevation gain or loss. It's a very serviceable method of estimating energy required miles.

Map - GC: Hermit to IG, out BA; 2008; 41 miles
Map - GC: Hermit to IG, out BA; 2008; 41 miles
(Click the image to see the map)

If you want to view a full-resolution map, click here. Caution - do not use this map or gps track for navigating the route.

Start from Hermit's Rest
Start from Hermit's Rest
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below Hermit's Rest
below Hermit's Rest
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Aaron on the Hermit
Aaron on the Hermit
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Santa Maria Scenic Toilet1
Santa Maria Scenic Toilet1
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Santa Maria Scenic Toilet2
Santa Maria Scenic Toilet2
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Santa Maria Scenic Toilet3
Santa Maria Scenic Toilet3
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Al - Paintbrush
Al - Paintbrush
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Al - Aaron winds down
Al - Aaron winds down
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Breezy Point Arch1
Breezy Point Arch1
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Breezy Point Arch2
Breezy Point Arch2
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Hermit Trail Bottom1
Hermit Trail Bottom1
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Hermit Trail Bottom2
Hermit Trail Bottom2
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(There are - More photos below the trip narrative.)

     Day 1: Hermit Hiatus: Hermit Rest TH to Hermit Creek Camp, 8.5 miles, 4340' descent, 690' ascent. ERM = 17.5, high of 6700', camp at 2900'.
    The Monkey Flowers bob in the slight breeze, a phalanx of them stride along burbling Hermit Creek. Here, installed in camp amidst the Tapeats layer, we are camped for the first night of our journey. Screaming yellow composites, Brittlebush, form a haze over the hills of the Tonto. Flowers of many colors and formation grace this big ditch. Al is cooking enchilada-style with refried beans and rice and assorted fresh veggies as Craig and I filter water.
     The day started at 2:30 a.m. - too early for respectable hikers. On the road by 3:30 a.m. and on the shuttle by 6 - we are the last to be dropped at Hermit TH today, as the PS is rebuilding the road.
     Wearing wool hat, gloves, fleece, it's not enough and I don't warm up until Santa Mari Spring - where I see a duo of scenic toilets.
    Lateral, and lateral some more - past Lookout Point and Breezy Point (where we see an arch), finally to the Cathedral Stairs, where we spiral down on some amazing handicraft to the base of the Redwall, often its native bluish gray - and into a showy flower-studded starkness of the Tonto Plateau.
     The rat sacks are hung with care as the sheer Redwall glows and the low-angle light glitters off the promulgation of composites, mallows, palmations, and such gracing the Tonto tilt.
    Sleep comes suddenly with a background natural quiet of frogs that sound like Mountain Sheep ( a la Mtn. Sheep Spring along the Esplanade). A contrast with the constant intrusion from air tour terrorists, all day, all day, all day.

Al - Hermit Creek
Al - Hermit Creek
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Hermit Creek
Hermit Creek
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Hermit Cr. Garden
Hermit Cr. Garden
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Hermit Cr. Garden
Hermit Cr. Garden
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Crystaline structure
Crystaline structure
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Aaron - Hermit Cr.
Aaron - Hermit Cr.
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Craig - Hermit Cr.
Craig - Hermit Cr.
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Hermit Cr Scenic Toilet1
Hermit Cr Scenic Toilet1
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Hermit Cr Scenic Toilet2
Hermit Cr Scenic Toilet2
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Hermit Cr Scenic Toilet3
Hermit Cr Scenic Toilet3
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Hermit Rapids
Hermit Rapids
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Hermit Rapids
Hermit Rapids
(Click the image for a full-size view)

(There are - More photos below the trip narrative.)

     Day 2: Hermit hiatal gap: Hermit Creek to Hermit Rapids, Colorado River., 4.0 miles, 1700' descent, 700' ascent, (total 1461); ERM = 7.0.
    The Brittle Brush (the prevalent yellow composite flower) glows against the sparkling ebony schist of the GC basement group. We're hiking streamside through a garden of flowers. Above are the stratified layers of Tapeats SS and the beveled slopes of the Tonto. Ribs of Zoroaster Granite shine red and flakes of Mica glitter.
     Nearing the river, we hear the roar of Hermit Rapids, which nearly overshadows the din of the national security risk air tours. (So much waste, so much pollution, so much intrusion.) After watching a private boater group run Hermit, we find a shady spot abutting the river for lunch. It's nearly hot as we return to camp. We swim in our private jacuzzi-stirred pond and lounge on warm polished boulders in the shade - awaiting local sunset in the main camp.

Al - Mallow
Al - Mallow
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Spiny Lizard
Spiny Lizard
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Hermit View
Hermit View
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Tonto Highlights
Tonto Highlights
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Aaron on Tonto
Aaron on Tonto
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Al - Tonto1
Al - Tonto1
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Al - Tonto2
Al - Tonto2
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Al - Tonto3
Mary & Al - Tonto3
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Al- Monument
Al - Monument
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Monument from Tonto
Monument from Tonto
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Sun rays - Tonto
Sun rays - Tonto
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Craig - Monument Camp
Craig - Monument Camp
(Click the image for a full-size view)

(There are - More photos below the trip narrative.)

     Day 3: Monumental Monument. To Monument Creek, day hike to the River., 8 miles, ERM = 13.
     Wind shrieks around the monument and up the canyon, pausing to swirl grit into everything we have. Pad Thai dinner and a swig to Zig, who is solo-riding the Southern Tier bike route, self-contained. Zig, is that the only excuse you can come up with that you are not here in the canyon with us? Way to go, Zig.

Click here to see Zig on the Southern Tier. Riding across the southern US, 2311 miles.
    We started fairly early and climbed to the Tonto amidst a host of flowers. Views of the River and the Temple of Ra sprouted. Dropping into Monument Creek, we see the Monument, its base in pink Zoroaster Granite. A cool trickle of water appears and disappears not far from camp - resurfacing near the River, we find, as we walk the crushed rocks and marvel at wondrous swirls of Zoroaster Granite, pink against the ebony of Vishnu Schist.
    We hide from the sun at Granite Rapids (seeing only one boater group), then return to the polished basement rock of the narrows of Monument Creek! A sluggish pink Grand Canyon Rattler wanders along with us, just prior to the narrows. A three-holer scenic toilet graces the skyline of camp.

Narrows of Monument Cr.
Narrows of Monument Cr.
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Narrows of Monument Cr.
Narrows of Monument Cr.
(Click the image for a full-size view)
GC Buzz Worm
GC Buzz Worm
(Click the image for a full-size view)
GC Buzz Worm
GC Buzz Worm
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Monument Cr Scenic Toilet1
Monument Cr Scenic Toilet1
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Monument Cr Scenic Toilet2
Monument Cr Scenic Toilet2
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Monument Ridge Arch
Monument Ridge Arch
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Zoroaster Granite Swirl
Zoroaster Granite Swirl
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Narrows of Monument Cr.
Narrows of Monument Cr.
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Narrows of Monument Cr.-Craig
Narrows of Monument Cr.-Craig
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Brittle Bush
Brittle Bush
(Click the image for a full-size view)
columbine
columbine
(Click the image for a full-size view)

(There are - More photos below the trip narrative.)

     Day 4: Salty Dog: Monument to Salt Creek, explore Salt., 4.0 + canyon exploration; ERM = 7.0
     Up in the coolness, praise the lard, that there is no wind. Back up on the Tonto we climb, pausing for morning flower photos and for a high 'monument ridge arch' photo. Around above the occasional background rumble of the River, we stroll, interrupted inhumanely by the incursion, assault, noise pollution of airborne terrorists, droning us all toward demise.
     As it grows warm, we slip into Cedar Springs. Craig and I explore down canyon and find a decent flow of clear water. So much for the forecast of doom by Gertrude the Rangerette. Cactus bloom all about - delightful.
     The wind rejoins us as we plod into Salt Creek Camp. No shade - but early local sunset is in the offering. Craig and I explore down toward the gigantic pour-off in Salt Creek, finding polished pink quartzite artfully inlaid in the black schist.
     Wind pounds us at dinner (Mediterranean Couscous with pita bread and hummus) and on into the evening. A scenic toilet - again! It's cool enough for pants and a pile jacket. The tent flaps and moans like a teenage bridesmaid. What a panorama from the scenic toilet at dusk.

four-oclock
four-oclock
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Monkey Flower
Monkey Flower
(Click the image for a full-size view)
group above the gorge
group above the gorge
(Click the image for a full-size view)
group on Tonto
group on Tonto
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Salt Cr Scenic Toilet1
Salt Cr Scenic Toilet1
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Salt Cr Scenic Toilet2
Salt Cr Scenic Toilet2
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Zoroaster in Salt Cr.
Zoroaster in Salt Cr.
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Cedar Springs Window
Cedar Springs Window
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Horn Cr Scenic Toilet1
Horn Cr Scenic Toilet1
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Horn Cr Scenic Toilet2
Horn Cr Scenic Toilet2
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Granite Gorge
Granite Gorge
(Click the image for a full-size view)
republican Scenic Toilet1
republican Scenic Toilet1
(Click the image for a full-size view)

(There are - More photos below the trip narrative.)

     Day 5: republican fall-out: Tonto to Indian Gardens, visit Plateau Point., 10.6 miles, ERM = 17.
     Sitting table-side in the lush, cool greenery of Indian Gardens CG, my feet are rebounding to a semblance of their old shape. I'm contemplating the republican fall-out toilets unique to the red states of America. The toilet for uber-rich republicans is on the top tier, with everyone else relegated to the "trickle down" section below. See the photos for inspiration. It's everything you voted for in bushco, a widening gap between the two Americas, those that have the cash and everyone else who has had their legal rights, jobs, civil rights, clean air and water, and futures outsourced.
    Starting out in nearly cold air, we leave the 200 degree arc splendid of Salt Creek Camp and lilt through the flower-infested slopes of Tonto West. Pausing at Horn Creek, we find the camp compact and the toilet scenic. Water flow is good and looks pure, despite its reputed trickle through the breccia pipe associated with the nuke mine, Orphan Mine.
    From Horn, it's a short 2.5 mile hop to the intersection of Tonto West and the trail to Plateau Point.
    Plodding into Indian Gardens, I find a Cottonwood-covered site that contains dirt and roll on in. After some heel cooling in the CG, we venture out to Plateau Point - excellent views. Della Yurick, Rangerette Dynamic, comes by for a long chat, discussing how "service" is part of the title, "National Park Service."

republican Scenic Toilet2
republican Scenic Toilet2
(Click the image for a full-size view)
By the foot
By the foot
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Aaron on Plateau Point
Aaron on Plateau Point
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Craig on Plateau Point
Craig on Plateau Point
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Bright Angel Scenic Toilet1
Bright Angel Scenic Toilet1
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Della and Rob
Della and Rob
(Click the image for a full-size view)

Outlaws
Outlaws
(See in the parking lot - Click the image for the full-size image)

     Day 6: Earth Day in the dust - out the BA, 5.4 miles, ERM = 11.5. Total ascent for the trip = 9600', total descent for the trip = 8650'.
     Total trip miles hiked = 40.5, ERM = 73.
     It's Earth Day in the pulverized dust. We set out a bit before 8 a.m. so we can chat with the backcountry office about the upcoming (tomorrow!) Escalante Escalade adventure.
     Earth on Earth Day in everything, the pulverized dust of so many footprints, so many humongous carbon footprints that will drag us all into the age of darkness. Overpopulation? Yes. Yet today we enjoy the inspiring views and the dusky coolness of morning in the desert, the Hermit Hiatus drawing to a close.

Links:

Map - GC: Hermit to IG, out BA; 2008; 41 miles
Map - GC: Hermit to IG, out BA; 2008; 41 miles
(Click the image to see the map)

If you want to view a full-resolution map, click here. Caution - do not use this map or gps track for navigating the route.

Click here to see the second part of this GC adventure series. The Escalante Escalade!

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