Chilly Cheyava Clear (NOT) Creek:
Largest falls of the Grand Canyon - South Kaibab / Clear Creek / Cheyava Falls / Bright Angel (April 20 -25, 2010) Text © copyright by Rob; and Photos © copyright by Rob |
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Overview: This is a report about a backpack adventure to Cheyava Falls,
largest of the Grand Canyon waterfalls. Cheyava flows only in the Spring, and might not flow at all in dry years.
Following a 10+ foot snow year, we thought it was time to trek to Cheyava. Of course, we had to obtain our
permit months in advance, so we wanted to explore the area more anyway. The abundant flowers following a wet
Winter were a bonus.
Continue through the report for 20 photos, two panoramas, three movies,
and a dynamic map + links to previous GC reports.
Total miles = about 45.
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| Cheyava! The Redwall arcs golden in this rare stalk of evening light.
We're on day 4 of a rain-spattered trip to Bright Angel (BA) and then to not-so-Clear Creek, and the constant
intermittency of poor weather seems to be breaking. Earlier today, we gazed at cascading Cheyava Falls as
swatches of water are blown from the falling stream, swirling and drifting down canyon, as snow swirls high on
the backdrop of the North Rim. Burr.
Back to Day 1 and 2 - Wondrous Rainbow: We start the trip in shorts, gliding down the (gloriously) mule-free zone of the South Kaibab to #29 at BA Camp. A delightful warm evening, we awake to warning rain drops and catch the full shower and wondrous rainbow as we scale the well-engineered CCC trail to Phantom and River Overlook. As we touch the Great Unconformity - the missing layers between Tapeats Sandstone (SS) and basement rocks of metamorphic and igneous origins - the shower briefly deluges, then lapses into a spitter. We hole up under an overhang for lunch and later a snack break, and ease into Clear Creek after much rolling elevation along the trail. See the last Clear Creek report and mileage estimates at Eponymous* Clear Creek of the Grand Canyon Not a great resemblance to the South side Tonto, this trail rolls over humps of drainages, following the contour about as consistently as a religionist votes for those working to reduce poverty and abuse at the hands of greedy corporationists, rarely. We enjoy a weather break that evening to establish camp and to cook. Day 3 - not clear at Clear: Wes hunts the river view off-route below Howland Butte while Dave and Craig explore the Tapeats narrows of the East Fk. of Clear Creek, and K and I explore around camp and nap in the tent when the afternoon rainstorm rolls in carried by a huge gust of wind. Thanks are given to the Zoroastrian tradition because again we enjoy a cooking break in the intermittency of rain and wind. Day 4 - Chilly Cheyava .
This brings us back to Day 4 and the chilly Cheyava Clear (not) Creek cruise, made into more of a slog because of
the high, frigid, and occluded water. Perhaps half of the flow comes from the left (looking up canyon) fork beyond
Obi, allowing us to accomplish the numerous pole vaults and long jumps of the upper creek section wearing boots.
Again, we praise the Zoroastrian Tradition because the sun peeps out at sunset, giving light to the scenic toilet. Link to Scenic Toilets of Inner Earth Day 5 - return to BA. The day dawns cool yet sunny and soon we are again enjoying the incredible lushness and vibrancy of flowers, forbs, and other growth along the return path to BA camp. The flower fantasia is a terrific side-benefit of this rain. Seeing no one along the way, we are jolted into the relative civilization of the Phantom Ranch area. Ranger Della comes by to chat as we engage dinner, she then sends over other hikers to hear tales of Clear Creek. Day 6 - Unnatural Disquiet. Day 6 and we're humping the lighter yet
still burdensome packs up the BA Trail, soaking in the quiet lower regions and plodding the upper sections where
natural quiet is overcome by a variety of too-loud languages, and artificial sounds of man. I see and hear an unwelcome
blare of disquieting noise from speakers strapped to a backpack. Unnatural disquiet.
"The plural of "anecdote" is not "data"." - message to george w bush from an unknown writer "The only difference between a cult and a religion is the amount of real estate they own." - Frank Zappa "Stupidity got us into this mess - why can't it get us out?" - Will Rogers
Map and Mileage Table:
Click here to see the NPS trail distance estimates (two pages) for the central GC trails.
Movies: Start downloading one, or two, while you read the above text....
Movie 1: Cheyava Falls - scanning; 18 MB Movie 2: Cheyava Falls - camera stationary; 6 MB Movie - burbling Pipe Creek, Day 6; 6 MB
Panoramas: Pano of a rainbow from the CCC trail/Phantom Overlook, Day2; 615kb Pano 2 from the CCC trail/Phantom Overlook Day2; 624kb; scroll to view all of it Other WV reports about the Grand Canyon: Click here or on the Looking Lizard to go to all WV reports about The Grand Canyon
Related Links: the geology of the Grand Canyon by the NPS
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