Galleria = a collection of art for exhibition, devoted to the exhibition of works of art, a raised area to accommodate spectators, exhibits, etc.

     Trip data: 48.5 total trip miles. 9999’ descent trip total; ascent total of 10,236’.
     Total trip ERM = @ 86.
     ERM is Energy Required Miles. It is figured by adding one mile to the distance for each 500’ gain and loss in elevation. ERMs help provide a different perspective or measure of how the hike hikes.
     There is some variability in the trip numbers due to errors of GPS measurement, rounding errors, and other unexplained, rumsfeldian, errors that are known to be errors but the errors are unknown or of no concern to those dealing with numbers, enhanced by rumsfeldian arrogance or ignorance.

Map - South Kaibab–Indian Gardens–Bright Angel–Lonetree–Grapevine–Cottonwood–Horseshoe Mesa–Grandview Point; 49 miles (Click the image to see the map)

for a full-resolution map, click here. Caution - do not use this map or gps track for navigating the route.

Day 1 Grandview Scenic Toilet (Click the image for a full-size view)	Cactus on Tonto (Click the image for a full-size view)	Between S. Kaibab and BA (Click the image for a full-size view)
Zig and Craig - Tonto East (Click the image for a full-size view)	Between S. Kaibab and BA (Click the image for a full-size view)	Tonto - arriving Indian Gardens (Click the image for a full-size view)

     Day 1: Go West, ye Tonto: : South Kaibab TH to Indian Gardens. 9.3 miles, descent of 4443’; ascent of 1526’. ERM = 20.
     The hat sails like a Frisbee, accompanied by a shriek as it zips far from its owner’s outstretched arms. Wind speed is exceeding 60 MPH in the gaps of the Redwall Limestone. The country song goes something like “dust in your teeth, all you want is dust in your teeth…..”
     The relentless pounding of the South Kaibab descent is building lactic acid. There are few mules (4 trains so far) and a dramatic drop in hiker population after we leave Cedar Ridge – and this improves the day. Avoiding the craze of Bright Angel was worth the extra miles – especially the extra scenic miles walking quietly along the Tonto between the S. Kaibab and the BA Trails. Along the way, we enjoy a respite at Pipe Springs, a thin stream burbling across the trail and soon over an immense pour-off.
     Now in Indian Gardens, it’s cold: wool hat, long johns, thick poly top and down coat and wind jacket. A wind-chill with the departing cold front – moving on.

Day 2 - Bright Angel basement rocks (Click the image for a full-size view)	Pipe Cr. Scenic Toilet (Click the image for a full-size view)	Pipe Cr. Scenic Toilet (Click the image for a full-size view)
BA Scenic Toilet 1 (Click the image for a full-size view)	BA Scenic Toilet 1 (Click the image for a full-size view)	Day 2- Mule Talk (Click the image for a full-size view)
day 2 Deary Deer (Click the image for a full-size view)	BA Scenic Toilet #2 (Click the image for a full-size view)	Tale of 2 Bridges (Click the image for a full-size view)
Phantom Evening (Click the image for a full-size view)	Gorging at Phantom - Craig and Zig (Click the image for a full-size view)	Gorging at Phantom - Rob and Kathleen (Click the image for a full-size view)

Movie: brief view of Pipe Creek Burble Movie - click here, 1.3 MB

     Day 2: Down Elevator: Indian Gardens to BA Camp. 5.2 miles (14.5 total trip miles); 1347 descent (5791’ total so far); 299’ ascent (1825’ total to date); ERM = 8.
     Clear water from Pipe Creek burbles and the Monkey Flowers blush red on green against the ebony backdrop of Vishnu Schist of this CCC trail section of the BA Trail. Nearly to The River, I see a new scenic toilet near the Pipe Creek Rest House. Lovely. Scenic.
     We lilt into BA camp and get established before Zig provides a tour of the bunk house and cabins of fabled Phantom Ranch. Star sleeping is all I desire today. The mule riders can have the indoor accommodations.
     BA Creek rushes high and the low-angle sun glints from basement rock as I tour the grave near the boat beach and prepare for dinner at Phantom Ranch – historic stew it is. Cool and breezy, the wind is building once again.
     The sound of restless water accompanies Kathleen and I to the California Condor presentation and from there to join Zig and Craig for beef stew, veggie stew!, with salad, corn bread, and chocolate cake. Gluttony. Then, back to camp #29 and a peaceful night.

day 3 Black Bridge (Click the image for a full-size view)	day 3 Black Bridge (Click the image for a full-size view)	Day 3- looking down on The River (Click the image for a full-size view)
BA Shale of the S. Kaibab (Click the image for a full-size view)	Footlose on the Tonto (Click the image for a full-size view)	Pattie Arch (Click the image for a full-size view)
Pattie Arch (Click the image for a full-size view)	Lonetree (Click the image for a full-size view)	Lonetree Camp (Click the image for a full-size view)

Black Bridge across The Colorado - Day 3 (Image is very wide - scroll to view all of it - Click the image for the full-size image)

     Day 3: Barren Breakout:, BA Camp to Lonetree. 8.4 miles (22.9 total trip miles); 1201’ descent (6993’ total so far); 2255’ ascent (4080’ total to date); ERM = 15.4.
     I pull off onto the rock ledge above The River and the thin Black Bridge as a swirl of powdery poof dust engulfs two mule baggage trains bound for BA. The upriver breeze keeps me just out of the swirl.
     Plodding up the South Kaibab to the Tipoff, I feel muley myself, yet we manage to keep dust free between two dude trains. Rock Squirrels assail us at the Tipoff Scenic Toilet before we hike into the barren lands of Tonto East, bound for the reputed water of Lonetree.
     It’s a lurching down and up through the Westernmost arms of Cremation. Dry and not so appealing at Cremation, we are pleased to continue along the Tonto. This stretch of the Tonto is far better defined than that of the Gems route.
     I spot a large arch high in the Redwall near Pattie Butte – and see the arch is not marked on the topo. On through fields of cactus in bloom, we round the corner and relish at the sight of water dribbling down Lonetree. Yahoo.
     We experience wind on and off all night. A warm evening, stars galore, then clouds.

Sign for Day 4 (Click the image for a full-size view)	Cactus in Limestone (Click the image for a full-size view)	Day 4- Clouds (Click the image for a full-size view)
Day 4 Tonto Stroll (Click the image for a full-size view)	Gazing Grapevine (Click the image for a full-size view)	Grapevine Galleria Frog 1 (Click the image for a full-size view)
Grapevine Galleria Frog 2 (Click the image for a full-size view)	Grapevine Galleria Frog 3 (Click the image for a full-size view)	Evening at Grapevine Galleria (Click the image for a full-size view)

     Day 4: Grapevine Cornucopia of Wind. Lonetree to Grapevine. 9.5 miles (32.4 total trip miles); 1313’ descent (8206’ total so far); 1162’ ascent (5242’ total to date); ERM = 14.
     The trail along Grapevine Canyon continues, on and on. It’s a slog, a cornucopia of wind. Many delights grace the walk, cactus flowers, Brittlebush, pregnant and ready to flower Agave. Clouds have filled and emptied the sky many times today and mostly the photographic opportunities have been few.
     Again we see out daily quota of two hikers, and again they are traveling to the West.
     Craig and I explore downstream in Grapevine, easily edging around the chockstone, and continuing down Grapevine for 40 minutes – frogs of many varieties hop into the clear water and willows are developing there too. We pass a dripping spring where cool water drips from a buff of maidenhair ferns. Delightful.
     Now, near sunset, blasts of vicious wind assault us, tearing free anything not anchored with large rocks and sailing it upcanyon, sometimes down. Even the warbling frogs pause during these blasts.

Starting Day 5 (Click the image for a full-size view)	Grapevine Galleria (Click the image for a full-size view)	Grapevine Galleria (Click the image for a full-size view)
GV Hanging Spring (Click the image for a full-size view)	GV Hummer (Click the image for a full-size view)	GV Hummer (Click the image for a full-size view)
Day 5 morning (Click the image for a full-size view)	Tonto - Horseshoe Jct. (Click the image for a full-size view)	Cottonwood Sumo Frogs (Click the image for a full-size view)

     Day 5: Grapevine Galleria: Grapevine to Cottonwood Camp. 6.0 + 1.2 exploring miles (39.2 total trip miles); 844’ descent (9050’ total so far); 808’ ascent (6050’ total to date); ERM = 11.
     The sumo wrestling frogs bleat, croak, trill, and attempt to throw each other out of the precious pond eroded deep into the Tapeats and sluicing with the clear water of Cottonwood Creek. We’re lounging in the gallery, amazed at these two puffed-up amphibians struggling for pond dominion.
     The day started at Grapevine with a short tour down canyon in the Grapevine Galleria, down to dripping spring. Standing on a rock, a hummer zooms in with willow fluff in its long bill and stuffs it into a tiny nest hanging under an overhang – truly amazing. Then, we head toward Cottonwood, passing the dribbling East arm of Grapevine along the way and some sheer drops reminiscent of the Beamer - Bodacious Beamer link.
     Rounding the point just before (West of) the Cottonwood drainage, we see a single cairn marking the route down to The River – apparently river access with no beach or camping down there.
     It’s lovely at Cottonwood – there are several good campsites with shade provided by junipers and cottonwoods. And, there is water here. The good camping below the junction is clogged with a large group. We camp above the junction. Froggies chatter between.
     Garrulous.

Day 6 - Sea of Buttes (Click the image for a full-size view)	Day 6 Colorful Morning (Click the image for a full-size view)	Up to Horseshoe Mesa (Click the image for a full-size view)
Looking back from Mesa route (Click the image for a full-size view)	Horseshoe Mesa Scenic grp Toilet (Click the image for a full-size view)	Horseshoe Mesa Scenic Toilet (Click the image for a full-size view)
Cave of the Domes (Click the image for a full-size view)	Cave of the Domes (Click the image for a full-size view)	Cave of the Domes (Click the image for a full-size view)
Cave of the Domes (Click the image for a full-size view)	Cave of the Domes (Click the image for a full-size view)	A Grand View (Click the image for a full-size view)

Movie: Grapevine with froggy noises Movie - click here, 16 MB

     Day 6: Fanciful flowstone and colored orbs. Cottonwood Camp to Horseshoe Mesa, Cave of the Domes, Miners/Page Spring. 1.9 miles pack (ERM = 4), + 4.2 exploring miles (ERM = 7.2), (45.3 total trip miles); 800’ descent (9872’ total so far); 2000’ ascent (8015’ total to date); ERM = 11.2.
     The green orb floats into the tent, then a yellow globe, an orange, red… It’s Kathleen’s birthday in The Canyon. Tied on her pack, the chromatic display compliments the canyon hues as we hike the direct route from Cottonwood to Horseshoe Mesa.
     After exploring the mesa awhile, searching for more scenic toilet photos - link to scenic toilets, we visit the Cave of the Domes, where flowstone is fanciful and old and inscriptions by the Kolb brothers and others are young. The limestone cave is surprisingly long and we explore for an hour.
     More lounging is followed by hauling a few gallons of water up to the Mesa from Page/Miner Spring. Steve helps greatly by lugging one of the water babies up this steep trail, then continues on his day hike from the rim. Tired puppies, we toast the birthday girl with amaretto, vegetable lasagna, and white mousse pudding before ogling the wrap-around sunset and the sea of butte silhouettes and collapsing into a star-filled sleep. Rejuvenating.

     Day 7: It’s a Grandview!, Horseshoe Mesa to Grandview Point and TH. 3.2 miles (48.5 total trip miles); 120’ descent (9999’ trip total); 2221’ ascent (10,236’ trip total); ERM = 7.2.
     Total trip ERM = @ 86.
     The way is up and quiet as we enjoy the early morning coolness, shaded by the East ridge. Quiet because we don’t see anyone until at the Coconino Saddle, and then only two groups of hikers. Plodding on, we begin to encounter more people, some smelling of bubble bath and artificial pheromones from or imitating long-dead animals. Yes, we are nearly to Grandview Point.
     As is often the case when encountering the stifling effects of winnehogos, oversized families and vehicles and people, I wonder for which part of hell we as a sub-species are headlong. Just add a lonesome locomotive or horse and some extra dust in your teeth and you have a country western song. Either that, or the theme song for the repulsican party.
     This, of course, detracts from the aura of The Canyon, the glory of Grapevine Galleria, so I settle back into this place and now and wish you all a vicarious Grapevine Galleria!