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Palisades camp view
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Z & C on The Beamer
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Zig on The Beamer
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Beamer View & Chuar
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Carbon Cr. from Beamer
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LCR enters The Colorado
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(There are - More photos below the trip narrative.)
Day1: Tanner Turndown; 9.5 miles, 4700’ elevation
loss (7350 to 2700’); 18 ERM. The knees complain, yet down we go on the rugged upper
plunge of the Tanner Trail from Lipan Point. The 'we" are Zig, Craig, and me. We start
out in an Arctic blast of piercing wind and warmed a few hundred feet down the sandstone.
Pausing at the Stegosaurus rocks for a snack and foot break, we shed the last of the warm
clothes, then we continue to where we stash and cache two quarts of water each and some
lunch for the trip out – somewhere beyond Cardenas Butte. Cardenas Butte. Named for one
of the first anglos reportedly to see the Grand of the canyon. Then, we begin the luxury
cruise, contour around the buttes to the head of the fearsome Redwall. Descending through
the tightly spiraling Redwall, Redwall of ball bearings scattered across the hard limestone,
making for an interesting descent. Another descent through green shale, perhaps it’s the
Bright Angel Shale, and two times through the Dox Sandstone. Craig talks of a ’trail mint’
(ibuprophen). Onward.
We see the scenic toilet and know we have arrived. Yow.
Temporarily forgetting the expansive vistas of Tanner, of views North along the Colorado,
we plod the sand around
the ancient, historic dunes looking for a campsite. I see a good one just across Tanner
wash, amidst the din of Tanner Rapids, but C & Z have found a sand city camp the other
way. A glow develops and quickly it’s local sunset. Moroccan Couscous with Sashi
paneer masala spice, with sausage TVP, sprinkled with tamarind salted sunflower seeds.
Yum. One-half cup couscous per person – uncooked. We cached one dinner near camp.
Zig is the cache man on this adventure.
Day 2: Pushing Palisades – Palisades of the Desert,
4 or 5 miles, 5 ERM. Camp near Lava Canyon Rapids. The subtle glow enhances the Palisades
and the mammary shape of the down-river end of Temple Butte as we cook potatoes and veggies,
accompanied by the roar of Lava Canyon Rapids. Melodic.
This section of the canyon is broad and affords wide-ranging
views.
It was an easy stroll from Tanner. Deciding not to go to the camp near the mouth
of the Little Colorado River (LCR) allowed us to wander and enjoy after a late start.
We talked with Jim from Phoenix about routes and ways, and explored to the old mine
and old cabin frame near where Palisades Creek wash (dry!) emerges from the cliffs.
Zig went inside the mine, which was encrusted with salts and blue leaking minerals.
Obnoxious terrorist cells (tour aircraft) cluttered the natural quiet. Despicable.
Back by the tumbling rapids, the white noise blocks the heinous intrusion of the air turds.
Day 3: LCR – Beamer to Beating, 7 miles, 9 ERM.
5 more by raft. I’m edging the green shale on the Tapeats boot-wide path and peering several
hundred feet straight down into the jade depths of the icy Colorado River. Yikes. Get your eyes back on the trail, I urge. This is a difficult prospect given the wondrous up- and down-canyon vistas. Whew, it's like being suspended in space.
We’re day-hiking to the LCR and the Beamer Cabin.
Miles of knife-edge walking and still the views evolve, lovely, spectacular. Far
below, a river group has river vespers before loading dories. There's no one else
round – all day. We’ve heard tales of tricky moves, but while not really a place for
backpacks – one bump against a wall and you’re in a deep swim – it is an OK route.
It's not a place if exposure bothers you, however. Then, finally, the silky aquamarine
of the LCR. An electric blue and all ours. We drop into the LCR basin and along to
Beamer’s Cabin – apparently fashioned from a pueblo ruin. A cool wind rises. We wait
for a transit boat while hunkering behind a river boulder, trying to elude the wind.
Finally, just before Craig’s drop-dead time of 1 p.m. and a start hiking back, two figures
appear downstream. Craig wades the LCR and negotiates a river shuttle back to camp.
It's a two-person, one raft permit of Chris and Owen, one of the first winners of the
first Colorado lottery. Zig and I wade the slithering blue and we all float and grunt
into an up canyon wind. A wave curls over me and the front of the raft, hurray for anoraks.
Cold feet.
We are dropped off near camp and the rafters set-up across
the river near the rapids. The clothes are all on as dark clouds cover the North rim and
creep over us. (rice with broccoli and cheese sauce with ham TVP, 1 cup uncooked rice per
person.)
Day 4: Snow ahoy! Return to the foot of Tanner.
I’m sleeping when a bit of rain on my face reminds me to get out for a tour de starlight,
but, no stars. Later, I awake to pounding rain and wind rattling the fly. A dark morning
eventually evolves into T-shirt weather as we return toward the foot of Tanner. Amazing
enough, we have seen only Chris and Owen over the past two days. Lovely.
We meet Ranger Scott Taylor when we are almost back to
Tanner, and, after a permit inspection he ‘allows’ us to stay at Tanner. It will become
busy at Tanner tonight. We set-up just West of Tanner Wash, enjoy a second lunch, then a
nap in the tent as it attempts to rain. The raven was busy as we napped, clipping strings
off food bags hanging in the low trees.
The temperature drops and between curls of clouds, we again
notice snow on the South rim. We imagine the North rim must be in a blizzard. Fluffy
clouds float past visions of Temple Butte, Chuar Butte, Cardenas, all along Palisades of
the Desert – stretching from Tanner to Cape Solitude. Now, I’m bundled with nearly all
the clothes I have, watching the tumbling Colorado cruise over the Tanner rocks.
Mesmerizing. (freeze-dried lasagna with pudding.)
Day 5: Escalante Excellente’ Route (11 miles, 1500’,
14 ERM.) I’m up in the night to total stardom. Billions and billions served. Clear skies
at morning. A raven has clipped the ties on two of Craig’s bags, then opened the bags on
the ground to enjoy lunch. Off on a day-hike of the Escalante Route we go, West to Cardenas
Creek, where we find a good camp, usually used by boaters. Then, the route climbs what may
be Dox SS several hundred feet above the river. Near Unkar Rapids we hike a few hundred
yards back East to a hilltop ruin, probably a ceremonial edifice.
Continuing on, the views range all around, cactus and asters
and assorted others bloom, and fluff white clouds provide panorama heaven. We hike to
where the route – actually a decent trail – starts up and around a butte nose. Then back,
past the ruin, the Unkar view and Cardenas camp to the moonscape of furnace flats, dotted
with a host of black rocks. Wet T-shirts at the camp – yes. What a change in temperature
since yesterday. It’s transcendental walking on this meditation route. Blissful. Now
we are back near Tanner Rapids, which drown out the obnoxious din of air tours fowling
the air, our ears, our future. Terrorists all.
Day 6: Trudging Tanner. 9.5 miles, 4700’
elevation gain (2700 to 7350’); 18 ERM. Up with the hint of daylight, we are rolling
up the lower slopes in the cool calmness. Quiet. Lovely. Then, as we approach the
green shales, air turds, wasting your future and polluting the air and destroying the
natural quiet. They are representative of the death of nature. Plodding on, soon
the mammoth Redwall – up we spiral, to another snack. Then, off to the water and
lunch cache, craftily left behind by Zig on the way down. Another snack. Doing OK.
Then, pure fatigue washes over us on the upper jumble, the stretch above the Stegosaurus
Rocks. Too soon overall the end of the trip creeps into sight, but not too soon today.
We are out of the canyon and besieged by throngs of belching winnehogos with their
hogo-looking passengers. Ahh, now here is an American classic.
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The Aquamarine of the LCR
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The Aquamarine of the LCR
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Beamer Cabin
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Craig in afterglow
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Curious C Lizard
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Inside ruin - Escalante Route
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Tanner Rapids Sunset 1
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Tanner Rapids Sunset 2
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Tanner Rapids Sunset 3
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Unkar Rapids from Escalante Rt.
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Out the Tanner
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Tired Puppy
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Click here or on the Looking Lizard to go to all WV reports about The Grand Canyon
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Looking for All Wilderness Vagabond trip reports about the Grand Canyon?
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Bodacious*: Blatant, remarkable, audacious, impressive,
or attractive.
As you can tell from the wide-spectrum definition,
this American word is one of those
wide-ranging superlatives to which speakers turn when they want to say that some quality
is present in large degree; that quality might be unreasonableness, impressiveness,
insolence, or (most recently) female attraction, specifically big breasts. This last
meaning seems to have become widely known in the middle 1980s after it was employed in
the film An Officer and a Gentleman in 1982. Another film, Bill and Ted’s Excellent
Adventure of 1989, contributed to its growing nationwide popularity.
As a result, many people would guess the word is modern,
but the earliest record
(actually of the adverb bodaciously, which appeared as body-aciously) is from as
long ago as 1832. The adjective is known from the 1840s, often as bowdacious in the
early years. This leads lexicographers to think that both it and the adverb are from
a English West Country dialect form, written as boldacious or bowldacious, which
was probably an amalgam of bold and audacious.
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Map - AZ: GC: Tanner to Beamer to LCR
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