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“There are some good things to be said about walking. Not many, but some. Walking takes longer,
for example, than any other known form of locomotion except crawling. Thus it stretches time
and prolongs life. Life is already too short to waste on speed. I have a friend who's always
in a hurry; he never gets anywhere. Walking makes the world much bigger and thus more interesting.
You have time to observe the details. The utopian technologists foresee a future for us in which
distance is annihilated.To be everywhere at once is to be nowhere forever, if you ask me.”
"Estranged from Beauty –
Solo Hike
Camera - Panasonic DMC-ZS60
none can be –
For Beauty is Infinity –
And power to be finite ceased
Before Identity was leased."
Background: My trail name is Wild Vagabond. Many years ago,
I "earned" this trail name in The Grand Canyon, and brought it with me to The PCT. The website
name "wildernessvagabond.com" evolved from the trail name. You will see photos of PCT hikers
in this report and most are identified by their trail name. Tradition holds that one is given their
trail name after some momentous event (and one does not select their own trail name, at least
traditionally and per good form).
A note about Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) miles. Once again, fires and
other intrusions (e.g., desertification from global warming) have resulted in rerouting sections of
the PCT, changing the mileage. This report uses the new mileage numbers. So, your guide or map numbers
may differ from those in this report.
The ERMs, Energy Required Miles, are calculated using the
trusty Half Mile app. One can select two reference points and receive a summary of the
elevation gained and lost between theme. And, it's free. Thanks to Halfmile for his dedicated
public service to the trail, terrific maps (to print, for the smart-ass) and an app. See the
bottom of the report for a description of ERMs.
On this excursion, I hike from Seiad Valley to the land of
Mazama. The trail refuses to go North. Instead, it meanders far East as it approaches Oregon,
seemingly avoiding Oregon. The PCT appears to refuse to penetrate Oregon. It's a Mazama meander.
Eventually, the PCT penetrates Oregon and one can imagine the squeals of delight.
My total PCT pygmies include hiking from Kennedy Meadows,
South (in California; PCT mile 702.2) to Mazama Village (in Oregon; PCT mile 1821.7), for a
total of 1,119.5 miles, or about 42% of the PCT (2650 miles in length), making it cumulatively
slightly more than a Pygmy PCT Promenade. 1,119.5 gorgeous miles rambling on our precious public
lands, along the Pacific Crest Trail.
I got into hiking the PCT, in segments, following the Jaunty Juggernaut
hike of the John Muir Trail - See the various PCT and JMT reports here --->
All Wilderness Vagabond trip
reports about the PCT, JMT, Sierra hikes I used some of the quotes from the JMT report - because
they seem quite relevant to this current hike.
Mazama Meander? Mt. Mazama was the 12,000' peak above what is now
Crater Lake. During an eruption of this volcano, Mt. Mazama collapsed into the caldera. Mt. Mazama,
nevermore.
Pdf of Mt. Mazama, nevermore. This sequence shows the collapse of Mt. Mazama. From the NPS.
Maps: I color copied the Halfmile maps and sent sections with the
resupply boxes. These paper maps are what I used most of the hiking day. I also used the Halfmile app and
found it worked well. I occasionally used the Guthook Atlas Guides PCT app yet it took a very loooooong
time to load on my phone and it reloaded far too often (it appears to be optimized for the iphone).
You'll see extensive references to the Halfmile PCT mileages in this report. Thanks to Lon Cooper,
Halfmile, for his incredible public service to the hiking community.
I have to confess that I have started writing journal notes in the dumb-ass phone because the text is easy to export
once I get home. And, I can email sections of writing home so that I don't lose any journal notes.
Here are my journal notes, some photos, and the daily data and trip map,
and links to the outstanding Halfmile maps, tracks, and waypoints.
ERM = Energy Required Miles. A mile is added for
every 500' elevation gain or
loss. It's a very serviceable method of estimating energy required miles. ERM was initially used in Trails
of the Tetons (long out of print) by Paul Petzold, founder of NOLS. It's a wonderfully useful concept and
application. Add one mile for each 500' up AND down to distance = ERM. I use ERMs to calculate what the actual
day is like. It's a very serviceable method of estimating energy required miles.
Using ERMs does not account for the 'texture' of the route or trail - that
is, rocky, boulders, no trail, slimy mud, etc., yet does help approximate the route.
There is additional information about the valididy of using ERMS at the end of this report.
Maps for Days 1 - 6: for the wonderful Halfmile maps for section R, California, Start - Seiad Valley, CA; mi 1655.9.
End - Hwy 5, mile 1718.9 [near Ashland, OR] these maps cover days 1 to 6 of this hike, click here. Fairly large
pdf file. Twelve pages of maps and elevation profiles.
Visit pctmap.net for waypoints, tracks,
more maps -- for the entire PCT. A super resource. Each of these three pdf files is approximately 20 mb (well worth
the digital dithering).
Maps for Days 7 - 11: 54.5 miles; section B, Oregon, Hwy 5, mile 1718.9 [near Ashland, OR]; End - Hwy 140, mile 1773.4 [near Fish Lake], click here. Ten pages of maps and elevation profiles. There is no Oregon section A (it is included in California, section R).
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Preliminary Days:
At the end of the first day of driving, I'm in Reno, body twitching
like an imbalanced sewing machine, mind tumbling and lurching from near caffeine psychosis. Yet
I am here after 12 hours on the road and the bulk of the tarmac ordeal finished. Yahoo.
At the close of the second preliminary day, I'm dodging ravenous
mosquitoes, cooking among the big firs and pines and enjoying a well-earned beer, looking forward
to an early bedtime in Mazama Village Campground in Crater Lake National Park. I've been to a
Crater Lake overlook and up and down the crater hill twice past the Goodbye Picnic Area trying to
sort out where to park before meeting Stephen C. tomorrow morning. The first two times I am
sent to THs (trailheads) that are closed for construction. The last time I meet Phil G. of the
NPS (National Park Service) who radios in and procures a deluxe parking spot in the Mazama
Village area. Thanks Phil!
Then to camp to battle mosquitoes and enjoy some extra
examination of the inside of my eyelids.
Cool moist air settles in, wetting everything out in it.
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Day 1: The Fern Way: 2.5 miles. ERM = 4.6.
To PCT 1658.4 above Fern Spring; Start at PCT mile 1655.9, Seiad Valley. And, a long shuttle. Camp at 2485'.
As I see a guy carrying a straw hat into the Mazama Store, I yell out of the open
window of the Subie Subaru and indeed it's Stephen Clark, trail angel and gentleman farmer. Thus begins the
long drive South to Seiad Valley.
It feels like a short trip because Stephen is a good conversationalist with a wealth of knowledge about the trail
and other interesting subjects.
Back in the State of Jefferson. I'm getting back on the trail exactly where I
stopped last year; the elevation is low, the air hot (probably 95F), and the "no monument" signs dense, so not
a pleasant place. Except for the shade and two picnic tables hosting a group of PCT hikers, young people, as
you might imagine. I have planned a short hiking day, not knowing when I might arrive, so I dally as the
youngsters dally, avoiding the heat and the precipitous climb out of this hell hole.
I'm the first to venture out of the shade as the young people talk about
night hiking. I often find myself thinking of these young people as "youngsters," although I doubt they
would use this term. My knees and back, and especially my feet, tell me they'd like to be in the youngster
category. I've discovered, over and over, that one has difficulty training their feet. What? Yes, all
through my early hiking career I tried all sorts of boots, boots with two insoles, etc. Eventually I realized
I needed to hike with women's boots because of my narrow, low volume foot, and that my high arches made my
feet prone to plantar fasciitis - resulting in custom orthotics and stretching. Awful stuff. So, I would
like to hike more miles yet my feet say "whoa there, you're not going without us and we say "No!"" Besides,
the journey is the destination and trail tunnel vision is the bane of enjoying the journey.
A bit of road walking and the trail starts up and will continue up over the
next 10 miles and nearly 5,000 vertical feet. Argh. Yet for me today, Fern Spring is the goal.
The trail is well graded and up, climbing above the raucous Klamath River.
This sounds alluring, yet it's the tinkle of piped Fern Springs that is refreshing. I load up with
filtered water and climb to the next decent place to camp, everything being on an incline in this stretch.
A proliferation of poison oak lines the trail.
Small mosquitoes try to assault me as I prepare dinner, and they are wimpy
relative to the squadrons of monster cousin mosquitoes at Crater Lake. My skin itches in several bumpy
spots because of proboscis punctures, courtesy of the Crater Lake squadron.
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Day 2: A Devil of a Day. To Kangaroo Spring:
PCT mile 1666.0, the Devil's sign. 7.6 miles. ERM = 15. Camp at 5680'.
The wind nearly blasts me off the trail as I inch up and around
yet another Devil Peak. Lower, Middle, Upper Devil Peak.
It's a flowerfest day climbing up through the ecozones. Washington
Lily, Paintbrush, Yarrow, a variety of sunflower relatives, gentians, Larkspur, orchids, Columbine,
Pussy Paws, Lupine, California Corn Lily, and lots I cannot identify. Later in the trip I also see
Wild Iris, Arrowleaf Balsamroot, Horse Mint, Shooting Stars, orchids, Phlox, Dwarf Lupine, Mules
Ears, California Lilac, Death Camus, Hookers Onion, Skyrocket, gentians, and more. It's a fine
field example of C. Hart Merriam's Life Zone concept (1889),
as described in this report about the
Circumnabulation of San Francisco Mountain.
Shasta is on the Eastern horizon as Fireproof (photo) stops to chat,
telling me how he had just encountered a rattlesnake, probably one that I stirred up in passing. A
grouse and a Spotted Towhee make the climb more enjoyable. It's good to be out of the oppressive heat of Seiad.
I'm lounging in the shade near Kangaroo Mountain eating lunch #2.
The Boundary Trail junction is also nearby, as is a view of Red Butte through this low pass. At 5890',
this appears to be the high point of the climb out of sad Seiad, over 4700' below. Back on the trail,
I peek over the low ridge at Shasta and see Shasta and a plume of smoke. Yikes. The smoke appears to
be coming from where the PCT leaves the road walk. Yikes again. I later learn that a small sawmill
had started on fire, accompanied by exploding propane tanks and ammunition. Just a typical afternoon
for the local fire brigade. Another fire starts in a few days, threatening to close the trail (the PCT).
Dropping into a narrow basin below Red Butte, I'm soon at the tiny
pond of Kangaroo Spring.
Decent
by Arizona Trail standards mediocre by Sierra standards. Camping is nice. It's hot,
into the afternoon and the next water
is near a dirt road. What to do?
I awake to the realization that I've been napping in the shade of
a friendly pine. Flies buzz past, yet there aren't any mosquitoes, at least not yet. Maybe this is
camp for the night? Besides, a warm bucket bath will feel terrific. And it does feel good. By
the time I am finished futzing with treating water, bathing, setting up camp, it's approaching dinner
time. During my water gathering, I see a baby water snake resting on lily pads. Cute, and alas no camera.
With a recognition of the short dark hours in this time of the
Solstice, I get into the bag with sunset only to be awakened in the dark by chortling and coughing
from something large and close by. A bear gagging on my food bag? Naw, it's safely suspended in
a tree. A deer or hiker with some sort of lung disease? I peer out of the tent, cannot see
anything despite the full moon and my headlamp. It moves away. Later, yuge clattering wakes
me again. Something is scrambling in the rocks near the trail. Again back to sleep and then
there's a shrieking alarm call, of which I hear only part - because I'm, sigh, sleeping. Morning
comes too soon, painting Red Butte, well, red.
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Day 3: Bear Dogging The Trail. To Bear Dog Spring:
PCT 1676.2. 10.2 miles. ERM = 18. Camp at 6100'.
Bufus Bear was here last night or early this morning, his tracks tell
the tale. And a sizeable Bear too. Perhaps Bufus made the coughing sounds last night? Maybe it's
Bear Dog heading to her spring?
Around eponymous Lily Pad Lake I lilt, amidst a continuing flowerfest
before climbing to near the Echo Lake junction. Then a steady downhill through an incinerated forest of
standing black toothpicks (this fire was last year) to a pass and dirt road crossing, Cook Green Pass,
at 4700'. After lunch #1, it's up to 6100', regaining the lost elevation and more.
Lunch #2 affords yet another view of Mt Shasta, near the Copper Butte
Trail. The wind blows cool, cold until I change out of the wet shirt. It's a land of schist; or, a schisty
land, made more stark by the mosaic of fire damage.
Jo comes along, heading from Castle Crags to Canada. I also
encounter 2 Forest Service biologists checking to see how an endangered plant is coping after the fire.
As I near Bear Dog, I see a field of Pussy Paw flowers holding their
"paws" above the hot ground. Apparently, the paws are cozied near the ground when cool and held aloft
when the ground is hot. Amazing adaptation.
Bear Dog Spring hosts crisp clear water and marginal camping. So, I go
exploring for Louden's Cabin shown on the map as being across the drainage and below. What I find is
an old sign hanging by one bent nail from a tree proclaiming "Loudens Cabin," perhaps the base of a
chimney, and a yuge pile of fresh Bear scat. And, no good camping here.
Back on the PCT, I circle back to Bear Dog and make do with a small
camp in the firs, out of the wet meadow created by the spring and well screened from the wind.
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Day 4: Donomore Or Bust. To Donomore Creek and Meadows:
PCT mile 1690.5. 14.4 miles. ERM = 25. Camp at 5625'.
The Pussy Paws are hugging the ground and I'm wearing an extra shirt,
after just slipping off the down jacket this chilly morning. Off around White Mountain and then the
climb over Condray Mountain on the way to Alex Hole I hike. Nearing Alex Hole, I meet PCT Trail
Volunteers and FS grunts Ben, Caius, Kelly, and Ruth and we talk about hikes and volunteering.
Thanks for your stewardship of our precious public lands and the PCT. You'll see some of my
volunteer efforts among the
trip reports about The Canyon,
Grand Canyon National Park (link)
There are Shooting Stars in the boggy region of Alex Hole, yahoo.
A Stellars Jay comes to talk with me as I try for yet another flower photo.
Continuing North, a lovely aroma wafts up from the field of dwarf
lupines dotted with Pussy Paws and some undiscovered composite. Lovely.
Arriving at Mud Spring, I find the water difficult to gather and
salted with bits of dirt and the camping excellent yet right on what appears to be an ORV (Off Road Vehicle) carnage-way, so I move along to a superb view of (you guessed it) Mt Shasta for lunch #2.
Eric (Eko), comes along from the North and we enjoy some plant talking.
Evaluating the water sources, I head for Bear Ground and the springs
depicted on the reliable Half Mile paper maps.
A foot break and another liter of mango green tea and a glance at
the time and the elevation change to Donomore Creek convinces me, Donomore or bust.
Now ensconced in the big trees safely above the meadow and cold air
slump of Donomore Creek, I feel a bit of the bust.
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Day 5: Oregon! To PCT 1703.9, West Branch of Long John:
13.3 miles. ERM = 22. Camp at 5950'. Eclipsing 1,000 total miles on the PCT.
The Coyote chorus echoes across Donomore Meadow; different individuals
chiming in to a Song Dog crescendo. Wonderful. The chorus goes on for about 5 minutes; apparently the
group is sorting a tricky social issue.
Back on the trail, I soon encounter Offenbacher Cabin and its scenic
toilet. Signing in the cabin log book, I thank the Offenbachers for sharing their heirloom cabin with hikers.
Then - penetrating Oregon! A hodgepodge of rickety signs announces
the California/Oregon border. Yowee. It often felt like Oregon was out of reach during previous
hiking escapades; now this hike continues in Oregon.
I meet Seasoned Strider and Gadget Girl, hiking sections South.
There's a magnificent gusher at Sheep Camp Spring and just right for
a long break and snack #1.
As I get back on the trail, along comes Phoenix (Lionel Pittet) from
Switzerland. We hike together for a few miles, Phoenix being kind enough to slow his pace a
little. We enjoy lunch #2 overlooking Mt. Ashland, the Monogram Lakes basin, and a distant Mount
McLoughlin, which is North, near Fish Lake. Somewhere along this stretch, perhaps the trail ceases
the Eastern meander and begins going North? Hah.
Phoenix hikes on and Smalls and Heart Rock appear. We're all going
to the West Branch of Long John, which turns out to be a tiny yet welcome trickle.
It's cool enough to wear a wool hat and a few clothing layers during
dinner. The vigorous wind ushers in a fairly complete cloud cover.
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Day 6: Siskiyou to You. To Callahan's Lodge (resupply):
PCT mile 1718.7 (plus 0.8 mile road walk). 14.8 miles. ERM = 25. Camp at 3950'.
The cold fogbank envelopes me as I hike the ridge near Mt Ashland.
Eerie and brisk. One can imagine walking the moors of Wales, fog and mist swirling, objects emerging,
fading into the miasma. Fascinating.
As I drop into a gap, I head for Grouse Gap Shelter and toilet. Here
I see Ben and Caius working near the shelter amidst frigid wind. Ben talks of a possible PCT closure
from a new fire along the Klamath River, not far from sad Seiad. Oh no, perhaps another horrific
fire year for the PCT and our public lands is starting?
As I am just about to hike out of the forest and onto BLM and private
land, I hear the growl of a chainsaw and soon see Ruth and Kelly wrestling with a down tree that is
blocking the trail. More discussion ensues, then a final goodbye.
Down, down into the relative heat of Toll Road Gap and the chaos of
Interstate 5.
Road walking old hwy 99 to Callahan's alongside the thundering tarmac
known as Interstate 5 isn't fun, and my feet demand a break. The tarmac leads down below 4,000', a
low point of this trip (after sad Seiad).
Setting up the tent near the white noise of an artificial water falls
seems a way to mask some traffic noise.
Shower, laundry, dinner, spectacular.
An excellent way to end a day of roaming the Siskiyou Mountains.
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Day 7: Piloting The Peak. To Piped Spring at PCT 1728.1:
9.7 miles. ERM = 15. (plus 0.8 extra road walking from Callahan's to the PCT). Camp at 5350'.
The day starts with an Ed Abbey discussion with Kelly, this time a guy,
hiking an often vague trail connecting Oregon wilderness areas. "Listening for Coyote" by William Sullivan
- is the book about this trail. I look forward to Kelly sending an update and the track for this trail or route.
The scenic toilet is somewhat discretely situated behind a tree at the edge
of the Soda Mountain Wilderness Area. Gorgeous, yet with a limited view. The character of the toilet
makes up for what it lacks in vista. It's an al fresco toilet.
I continue sauntering around the corner of Pilot Peak, resplendent with
a columnar basalt flank, after arranging a scenic toilet photo. It's well into the afternoon and it's
about 7 miles on trail so far today, a figure typically accomplished before noon. However, Kelly, Reed,
and I start the day with a pancakes (all you can eat!) and eggs hiker breakfast at Callahan's, and I
don't get on the trail until late morning. Last night I dined with Jimmy C. and wife, where I gorged
on two plates of spaghetti, two mini-loaves of bread, and a salad. Just right. (Two meals are part of
the hiker special combo at Callahan's).
The stop has been excellent, yet it comes with a resupply and now my
pack is again an obese brick on my back and slightly bruised feet. Argh.
A hoard of butterflies swarms a patch of Horse Mint as I amble along
the trail, rolling through dry grasslands and sweet dark forests. I am fascinated by the mints, because
a true mint has a square stem, totally square - give it a feel some day; yet don't try this with the
nettles, which have a resemblance to mints, because that's an irritating venture.
Paul C. stops for a brief chat.
Arriving at the first water (and last for another 13 miles), I call it good enough.
Papa Bear and Sweet Pea roll in at sunset.
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Day 8: One Soda, Please. To Little Hyatt Reservoir Outlet
PCT 1741.2. 13.1 miles. ERM = 21. Camp at 4650'.
The trail has piloted a meander to the North side of Pilot Peak and Mount
Ashland. When will this trail go North? It's been winding, meandering East for many days.
Leaving Soda Mountain Wilderness, I think about sipping the creme soda left
by the Trail Angels near Mount Ashland. Yummy. Fond memories.
As I cross the road near Keene Creek Reservoir, I see a lovely field of
flowering Mules Ears brightening the place. Showey. Smalls and Heart Rock (she collects rocks in the shape
of hearts) are eating the last of the cinnamon rolls brought by their husbands to the road crossing near
Keene. A beyond deluxe way to travel, I muse with envy.
On the trail goes, around and almost onto Green Springs Mountain before
dropping into Hyatt Meadow and to the outlet of Little Hyatt "Lake," which is enlarged by a cement plug.
Ahh water.
So, I'm lounging streamside, when who should appear but an oily bird
plucking bugs underwater, oh dear. Seussical. It's a dipping Dipper, or Water Ouzel, and she's putting
on a display of water prowess. Amazing. I shoot a variety of videos, each one seemingly better than
the last. Wow. Of course, this elegant bird is nothing like the oleaginous fake christian mike pence,
who is a despicable sort of evil oiliness.
The water sources are few and stretched out over long distances in this
section to Fish Lake; and there's no reported water for 10 miles. So, I opt to stay nearby and I'm
rewarded with a warm and pleasant bug free and calm evening within earshot of the falls produced by
the dam spillway. Delightful.
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Day 9: Grizzly Day. To Grizzly Creek, PCT 1751.1:
9.9 miles. ERM = 15. Camp at 4500'.
The vapors rise over Little Hyatt Outlet as the low climb over to Hyatt
Reservoir begins. Soon, however, I'm down to a single shirt.
The junction near the entrance to the campground at Hyatt Reservoir is
strangely quiet, and I wonder if the campground is closed. This seems likely when I see the skeletal
deer head in the water trough along the trail. Lots of water down below, yet little away from the reservoir.
During a foot break, I admire the cinnamon stick Red Cedars and the
outlandish display of flowers that grace these drying hills.
Without much for views, except for the big monarch Douglas Fir and
Red Cedar Trees, the trail rolls along to the eerily quiet, yet full aqueduct from Howard Prairie Lake
and shortly thereafter diminutive Grizzly Creek.
Once again, the next water is somewhat distant, and timing of the
remaining single possible source near Brown Mountain Shelter difficult for a not long distance hiker
like me. So, it makes sense to stay here rather than press on into the heat. Besides, the trail next
climbs 1500' or so feet in elevation before rolling to the shelter.
So, I have time for a bucket bath after a lengthy exploration for a
decent campsite. Perhaps I should have stayed in one of the developed campsites along the way?
The trail is very quiet today, and I see only one backpacker and a
few day hikers. It's a pleasant day without exciting animals or situations. I did lose another water
container to puncture, this time a Sawyer. Two down.
Day 10: Treebeard to Brown Mountain Shelter. To near Brown Mountain Shelter:
PCT mile 1763.5. 12.4 miles. ERM = 19. Camp at 5250'.
The silky, cool, crisp, clear water curves from the pipe with a gentle burble.
Delightful. This water at Spring 1755.2 is most excellent water and the last until the possible water beyond
the Brown Mountain Shelter and maybe until the Fish Lake area.
And, this spring marks roughly 100 miles on this pygmy PCT adventure.
It's a day of trees and more trees; so many yuge trees that the solar
panel is struggling to get a decent charge. Many of the trees are festooned with strands of light green
moss, decked out like tinsel trees, without the glitter. Treebeard. I pause for a long break, partly to
get some sun on the panel.
When there is a gap in the tree cover, what do I see but Mount Shasta
gleaming serene.
After a long lunch #2 at a road crossing, urging the solar panel to do
its thing, I continue to Brown Mountain Shelter. Although I search for awhile, I cannot find a scenic
toilet near the shelter. Huh?
At the next road crossing, I find the fabled last water until the Fish
Lake/Hwy 140 area and a place to camp. According to notes by Optimistic Turtle, there is an eight mile
stretch of lava coming to the trail and starting in a half a mile from here.
As I'm goofing with the water. I meet and talk with
Desmond 29 Out of Germany, and Nutter Butter and Ham Bone.
It's growing cool as I clean up the dinnerware, so I hurry toward the
tent and bag at the end of this tenth day on the Pygmy PCT.
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Day 11: Lava Romp. To Fish Lake Resort (resupply):
PCT 1773.2. 9.7 miles (plus 2 miles access trail to the resort). 11.7 miles. ERM = 14. Camp at 4850'.
I have on all my clothes and hiking the dark treebeard forest, wondering
if the lava field supposedly ahead will allow the sun to heat my bones and other parts.
Along comes Pusher from Germany, teeth almost chattering. He pushes
on and I put my gloved hands in my pockets.
It does warm in the sun glinting off the black basalt. Lovely.
I hike awhile with Trish, Fire Woman and Paul, NoHawk (a geologist)
and NoHawk points out a collapsed lava tube.
Occasional Sugar Pine giganto-cones dot the lava swales and forest
incursions. NoHawk notes that these spiny rubble depressions were formed by the surface of the lava
cooling and the still hot magma underneath flowing out. Amazing diversity. Some might call this
area desolate, yet, as Trish points out, it is fascinating. And, the hours and effort to create this
trail are astounding. I enjoy my time with these hikers, yet we part ways at the side trail to Fish
Lake. So long and take care.
Something other than Mount Shasta appears; Mt McLoughlin. Hurrah.
I hike the path off the PCT to Fish Lake Resort for resupply, lunch,
charging phone and panel battery, and a shower. Reportedly, there are numerous mosquitoes back up on
the PCT near the canal (water source) and it's getting late in the day, so I lug the resupplied pack
plus water part way around Fish Lake to a camp with a moderate amount of bugs.
Mount McLoughlin is a steep-sided stratovolcano, or composite volcano,
in the Cascade Range of southern Oregon and within the Sky Lakes Wilderness. It is one of the volcanic
peaks in the Cascade Volcanic Arc, within the High Cascades sector.
I meet Matt at Fish Lake while I'm sorting out items from my resupply
box, charging the phone, eating a meal. Later, I'm camped with Matt on the bank of Fish Lake. Matt
is on a 40+day quest to answer some questions and escape the shallowness of the false bravado (facebook;
and their ilk). He shows a video of a Yosemite Bobcat with a squirrel it captured in front of his tent.
Amazing. Here's hoping that the same fate awaits all camp robbing furry-tailed rats.
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Day 12: Sky High Lakes. To Christi's Spring:
PCT mile 1784.9. 11.7 miles. (plus 2 miles up to the trail from the resort; 13.7 miles) 13.7 miles.
ERM = 16.7. Camp at 6290'.
As I approach the boundary of the Sky Lakes Wilderness, I meet
Allan and Lea, two energetic and positive people whom are delightful to meet and talk
with. They're camped along the rushing Cascade Canal and have enjoyed the background noise of this
creek, which is not far from the Hwy 140 crossing.
Mosquitoes occasionally ambush me on the trail and are
uncharacteristically absent at other times. The grade is up, up somewhere over a thousand feet
to the McLoughlin junction. Up more later.
Next, I encounter Angie and Dana, hiking with pupster.
They placed a food cache in a 5 gallon plastic bucket and a Bear, apparently, took a nip of it,
without getting to the food. Not a very determined Bear.
As I approach Twin Ponds junction, the mass of trees thins enough
to get a glimpse of conical Mt McLoughlin, but not much of a view. The map says that there are
lakes about, yet there are too many trees to see much of anything but trees. Twin Ponds/Summit
Lake junction is just right for lunch #2. Mosquitoes greet me, then mystically depart so I
enjoy a pleasant lunch.
The trail continues, slower now, to Christi's Spring where I find
Lea and Allan taking a break in their tent. Mosquitoville. They wrap up and continue to the Red
Lake diversion off into a lake basin and then back on the PCT while I filter water and backtrack
on the trail to a camp I hope hosts a moderate amount of bugs.
Along comes Matt and he also stays in this camp.
It's good to have a tent with full bug netting.
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Day 13: And Lucifer Preceded The Devil. To the first creek North
of Christi's:
PCT mile 1799.3. 14.4 miles. ERM of 22. Camp at 6756'.
A quartet of toads bark into the dawn, waking me, and I can tell they
also wake Matt. Time to get on the long trail for today.
The route starts through dense forest, then opens to a distant view of
what else but Mt Shasta, albeit more and more distant. Then comes a look at the other side of Mt McLoughlin.
The journey today then goes through a pass below Luther Mountain into a
whole new vista. First, of fire damage for about 2 miles, including the top of the trail steeply down
into the Snow Lakes. Initially, I planned to stay at a Snow Lake, yet looking down into the basin, I
think not. Besides, there's good flowing water predicted ahead. So, go for the creek North of the
planned stop.
The trail continues through the saddle below Lucifer, on the way to Devil
Peak before dropping into the basin where there is water, precious water. The vista opens more as the
PCT climbs nearly over Shale Butte, skirts part of Lucifer, and tops out near Devils Peak before dropping
past a rare diminutive snowbank to the creek at PCT 1799.3. Matt continues to one of the next water
stops, trying to get close to the land of Mazama. This camp features a ranging vista to beyond Crater
Lake, although I am not sure what I am seeing. Perhaps it is possible to see the edge of the caldera?
Anyway, it's an expansive and deluxe vista.
An orange fireball sunset closes out this long day, indicating that
there are fires in the area. When I'm almost asleep I smell smoke from the fire that contributes to
the saturated color of the orange fireball sunset.
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Day 14: Ghost Tree Graveyard. PCT mile 1810:
10.7 miles. ERM of 15.5. Camp at 6250'.
As I fish out the next three mosquitoes from the cocoa, the orange-pink
light fades to a blue-gray. It's morning on Day 14. I got up before dawn to attempt to photograph
the morning hue and I was ambushed by squadrons of mosquitoes.
Teetering down the trail with a full load, 7 liters, of water; because
of uncertainty about water at Jack Spring, seems like a necessary precaution.
I again see Matt, and as we are talking Bear from Michigan arrives and
we discuss the dangers of working for amoral immoral, I suppose most all of the, corporations.
A California Toad leaps into the trail and nearly underfoot. Here, I
believe, is the barking toad that interrupted the morning bliss of morning on Day 13.
A mosaic of burned and green areas appears about 1.7 miles South of the
Jack Creek Spring Trail, soon followed by a totally toasted section sporting weathered ghost trees.
Jack Spring Trail is in the toasted segment. So, I don't stop to check on the spring because the area
looks like a moonscape. A positive note, the mosquitoes don't like the area either. This is a grand
discovery because I have sufficient itching bumps on my body parts for the duration of the adventure.
It will be a mosaic of toasted and green sections for several miles and
I pick an untoasted place to camp. It's a section sporting Lodgepole Pines in the Oregon Desert (yes,
that's the official name on the map, Oregon Desert).
Perhaps I could jettison the extra water and hike fast to Mazama
Village, yet it's a bit late, hot, and I feel a responsibility to use the massive poundage of water
I've toted here.
There's a hint of smoke stink in the general overcast, and the clouds
again conspire to inhibit the solar system from obtaining a full charge. Two young women stop while
I am at lunch #3 to ask about the status of the Bend Fire. Maybe that's it?
So, I while away the remainder of the afternoon amidst a Lodgepole
Pine forest, checking these journal notes.
Wow, it's wonderful to camp without mosquitoes, here in the part of
the former forest labeled as "Oregon Desert" on the topo map.
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Day 15: Mazama Completion, For Now. To Mazama Village:
PCT mile 1821.7. 11.7 miles (plus 0.7 to the camp). ERM = 18. Camp at 6020'.
Starting out from the bug-free Oregon Desert, I suffer frozen toes;
they warm quickly once I'm hiking.
There's more hiking in the toasted obstacle course. As trees
clear, Union Peak juts up like a shark tooth. The burn has cleared openings for forbs and a delicious
Lupine aroma fills portions of the early walk.
And, it's a quiet trail; I see only one other hiker until I approach
Highway 62. I get off at the Annie Springs turn and to Mazama Village, completing the Mazama
Village - Penetrating Oregon - Pygmy PCT 2018. At least for now. Yes, I intended to hike through
the Park, to the North border, yet this was not to be.
Yet, this is another terrific jaunt on the Pacific Crest Trail,
hiking a backbone of America's public lands. Let's all walk free, with a government that protects
us from the ravages of evil corporations (most of this amoral, immoral cabal) everywhere.
A government of or elected by billionaires is not a government of the people. Hike on.
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Postlog:
I comb my hair at the entrance to Mazama Village and grab the
geezer pass (not needed, I'm already in the Park). I have mixed feelings, a paisley contrast of
emotions; it's good to be starting home to help, it's sad to be leaving the trail.
At the hiker/biker campsite, I again see Kyle and this time I
get his photo. He's temporarily off the trail because of an injured knee.
I set up at hiker/biker camp and enjoy a short shower. Wondrous.
Over for dinner at Annie's. I again see some of the hiker friends
from the trail while camping at the hiker/biker site in Mazama Village. Sad to say, I'll never again
hear from anyone I meet on the Trail this trip, and this makes me feel sad indeed.
The next morning I head to Burney - It's to the Green Gables Motel
because they did a wonderful job of storing the Subie last year. But first, I drive around the
rim of Crater Lake and visit most of the viewpoints. Spectacular, even though the vistas are
cluttered and muted by haze from the California border fire. Before I rocket out of the Park, I again
see Paul NoHawk and Trish Fire Woman at a Crater Lake overlook. Now this is a fitting pause to the
pursuit of the PCT.
Driving to Burney, the hulk of the ever present Mt Shasta looms in
the murk. Ever-present, it was slow getting to Shasta, and now it won't leave the views. Maybe
the approach to Washington will be sans Shasta?
Next day, to Tonopah. As I drift into California, I stop for scenic
toilet photos with Mts Lassen and Shasta as the scenic. There's a wistful wind at the vista,
prompting
fond memories of the Hat Creek Rim
Stopping at an unscenic toilet not far from the largest ammunition
depot in the world (Hawthorne Army Depot, near Hawthorne, NV; it's yuge - at 262 square miles), I
open the toilet door and a very aggravated tarantula wasp flies into me, stinging me on the ankle.
Amazingly, the sting feels excruciating for a few minutes, then calms and there is no lasting welt
or irritation. Certainly, reminiscing about the 2018 Pygmy PCT, Penetrating Oregon - a Mazama Meander
is filled with peasantries.
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*ERM: Energy Required Miles, are there data to support this
mileage adjustment?
Journal of Outdoor Recreation, Education and Leadership
Petzoldt first proposed his theory in his 1976 book “Teton Trails” to
help backpackers plan trips and calculate their energy needs on mountain trails. “Petzoldt defined one
energy mile as the energy required to walk one mile on the flat. He recommended adding two energy miles
for every 1,000 feet of elevation gain, so a person hiking one mile and 1,000 feet upward would use the
equivalent of three energy miles,” Phipps said.
Petzoldt’s energy mile theory was just a reflection of the mountaineer’s
“gut feeling,” Phipps said. The theory had never been tested in a laboratory before the study began in WCU’s
Exercise Physiology Laboratory in the spring of 2010, Phipps said.
To determine the validity of the theory, the study measured the energy cost
and perceived exertion for walking on flat ground, with and without a 44.5-pound backpack, and up an elevation
gain of 1,000 feet, with and without the backpack, through the collection of metabolic data, Phipps said.
Twenty-four student, faculty and staff volunteers, including 12 males and 12
females, went through four testing sessions as the research continued into fall semester of 2010. The study
results showed that the additional energy cost for ascending 1,000 feet ranged from 1.34 to 2.02 energy mile
equivalents, for an average of about 1.6 miles, compared to Petzoldt’s use of two energy miles for each 1,000
feet. The range revealed by the study was due to the “hikers” personal weight differences, Phipps said.
“It is remarkable that Petzoldt’s energy mile theory is so close to the actual energy cost measured during our
study,” Phipps said. “In the field of outdoor education, it’s important for leaders to include an estimation
of energy requirements during the planning of hiking trips.”
Phipps said the energy required for hiking up steep mountain trails would vary
for individuals and groups, and the variables of the trail would also factor in, but he recommends that
backpackers stick with Petzoldt’s idea of adding two energy miles for every 1,000 feet of elevation gain when
planning trips.
The Validity of Petzoldt's Energy Mile Theory, 2010
Authors: Maridy McNeff Troy, Maurice L. Phipps
Publication: Journal of Outdoor Recreation, Education, and Leadership
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Click here or on the PCT trail marker to go to all WV reports about The PCT, JMT, Sierra hikes
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Half-mile site: Pacific Crest Trail Maps and GPS Information - a terrific resource
Pacific Crest Trail Association
Click here to: see the First ascent of El Capitan, Argosy Magazine, 1959 (10 pages) 22 MB.
Marc Reisner (1993) Cadillac Desert: The American West and Its Disappearing Water, Revised Edition, Penguin Books
Bill McKibben – suggested books include: Maybe One, Eaarth, The End of Nature
The waypoints with numbers indicate PCT mileage from the Southern US border.
Maps for Days 1 - 6: for the wonderful Halfmile maps for section R, California, Start - Seiad Valley, CA; mi 1655.9.
End - Hwy 5, mile 1718.9 [near Ashland, OR] these maps cover days 1 to 6 of this hike, click here. Fairly large
pdf file. Twelve pages of maps and elevation profiles.
Visit pctmap.net for waypoints, tracks,
more maps -- for the entire PCT. A super resource. Each of these three pdf files is approximately 20 mb (well worth
the digital dithering).
Maps for Days 7 - 11: 54.5 miles; section B, Oregon, Hwy 5, mile 1718.9 [near Ashland, OR]; End - Hwy 140, mile 1773.4 [near Fish Lake], click here. Ten pages of maps and elevation profiles. There is no Oregon section A (it is included in California, section R).
Scenic Toilets of Inner Earth: Scenic Scatology of the Wilderness Vagabond
We Are Breeding Ourselves to Extinction (click here for full article) or at:
Breeding ourselves to extinction? .
Medicare for All would reduce health care costs and boost wages, according
to a new report authored by the Mercatus Center. This is the same think tank known for promoting
deregulation and trickle-down economics, and has even received funding from the Koch brothers.
The report finds that the Sanders Medicare for All proposal would save $2
trillion in overall health
care expenditures between 2022 and 2031. That's because 1) The federal government could negotiate lower
rates with providers. 2) Administrative costs, marketing budgets, and bloated executive salaries would
be reduced.
So there you have it. The next time you hear conservatives rail against
Medicare for All, point them
towards research funded by the Koch brothers. What do you think?
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More Truth Than Joke:
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