Nougat of Nankoweap, 2017:
Grand Canyon Trip Report - Nankoweap #4 / Nankoweap to Kwagunt / Kwagunt to Nankoweap / Climb Nankoweap Butte
(September 23 to October 4, 2017)
Text © copyright by Rob; and Photos © copyright by Rob

Co-Adventurers: Annette Adams and Holly Button

Camera: Panasonic ZS-60

This report has improved photos.

Total miles = 56.6 Total ERM = 120

Off Tilted Mesa- Day 4
Off Tilted Mesa- Day 4
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Holly - route to Kwagunt - Day 5
Holly - route to Kwagunt - Day 5
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Headed for The River in Kwagunt - Day 6
Headed for The River in Kwagunt - Day 6
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Flying on Kwagunt Beach - Day 6
Flying on Kwagunt Beach - Day 6
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Nankoweap Beach Glow - Day 7
Nankoweap Beach Glow - Day 7
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Bonus Beer on Nankoweap Beach - Day 7
Bonus Beer on Nankoweap Beach - Day 7
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Colorado River from near Nanko Ruins - Day 8
Colorado River from near Nanko Ruins - Day 8
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The River and Nanko Ruin - Day 8
The River and Nanko Ruin - Day 8
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Map - GC: Nankoweap to Kwagunt to Nankoweap
Map - GC: Nankoweap to Kwagunt (ignore the tag to Malgosa)
(Click the image to see the map)

for a full-resolution map, click here. Caution - do not use this map or gps track for navigating the route.

A note about new and improved! photos: With this WV report I'm upgrading the quality of the main images. Not the thumbnails, which remain low quality to enable fast page load times, but the main images that you see after clicking on the thumbnails. Credit is due David Chasey, whom I met with his lovely wife Cindy thrashing through the brush looking for pictographs in some unnamed obscure location. David worked as a professional photographer and guided me through a way to improve image quality. He also repaired my well-traveled Panasonic ZS-19, which I now use for day hikes. Thanks David!

You can see some of David's work at (click here)

Summary: Annette, Holly, and I hiked a lollypop loop, a Nougat of Nankoweap, incorporating the Nankoweap Trail, then a route over the Nankoweap Mesa-Nankoweap Butte saddle (part of the Butte Fault Route) into Kwagunt. In Kwagunt, we hiked to the beach on The River (Colorado River) at the mouth of Kwagunt Kreek. A Riverside route walk takes us back to the mouth of Nankoweap Creek, followed by a streamside walk to the foot of the Nankoweap Trail. After a day of hiking to Nankoweap Butte and a day exploring for ancient imprints, we hiked back to the trailhead via the Nankoweap Trail, pausing at the saddle of Saddle Mountain before being blown out of the area.

Video 1, Nankoweap Morning, Day 11, 52mb
Video 1, Nankoweap Morning, Day 11, 52mb
(Click the image to see the video)

     Day 1: Snow on the North Rim: Flatted out at Jacob Lake.
     Annette comments that the tire pressure warning light is now "on." "Yikes!" exclaims Holly as we roll to a dusty stop. Oh no, a flat tire in Holly's truck tire as we drive the dirt toward the lower Nankoweap TH. And, Holly had just extolled the amazing characteristics of her new 10-ply tires. Religionists would refer to a negative rapture, while we consider the probabilities of something stabbing through this rugged tire on a fairly civilized road. We all scramble to get the jack under the truck frame before all the hissing air escapes. We're not comfortable continuing with no spare tire. So, we try for a repair at Marble Canyon, call Page (closed), finally we call Jacob Lake where Mo says "Jeremy can fix that."
     Snow swirls in the headlights as we climb up the North Rim, using a similar route as the beefaloo escaping House Rock Valley for the North Rim. Now, the beefaloo stay on the North Rim all year, fowling water sources, compacting soils, overgrazing; overpopulating an environment to which they are not native; you know, acting like republicans on the land. They are stray animals that have escaped from a breeding (with cattle) program in House Rock Valley and not bison (although they look like bison). Exponential growth (of humans, beefaloo) is the ideology of the cancer cell.
     We enjoy dinner in the Jacob Lake Lodge as the snow falls and the tire is repaired, then decide to stay in the Lodge because it's late, windy, cold, and snowing. Nice.
     Veggie burger with fries.

Photos- Nougat of Nankoweap - Day 2

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gcnankoweap2017-day2-1 sacred daturaweb.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day2-2 Saddle Mtn aheadweb.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day2-3 Holly - Cache preparationweb.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day2-4 distant Marble Canyonweb.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day2-5 Cache haulweb.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day2-6 Saddle Mtn aheadweb.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day2-7 Pictoweb.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day2-8 On the return - Vermillion Cliffsweb.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day2-9 Annette and Holly - base campweb.jpg

     Day 2: Nanko Cache: To the FS/NPS border, and back. 7 miles; ERM = 15. Camp @ 6500'.

     *ERM = Energy Required Miles. A mile is added for every 500' elevation gain or loss. ERM was initially used in Trails of the Tetons (long out of print) by Paul Petzold, founder of NOLS. It's a wonderfully useful concept and application. Add one mile for each 500' up AND down to distance = ERM. I use ERMs to calculate what the actual day is like. It's a very serviceable method of estimating energy required miles.
     Using ERMs does not account for the 'texture' of the route or trail - that is, rocky, boulders, no trail, slimy mud, etc., yet does help approximate the route.

     Estimated mileage and ERM for this trip - GPS trip total of 56.6 total trip miles; total ERM estimated at approx. 120.

     The pack creaks, or perhaps it's my back, as we tote water, food, storage tins up the monocline before losing this elevation dropping into the creek, then, regaining and adding elevation, climbing up to the notch in Saddle Mountain to stash the cache before returning to the TH. Along the way we spot a small red picto under an overhang, a fine location to observe the drainage below.
     A fire has incinerated swaths of the forest, including what was once a lovely Pinyon-Juniper woodland camp at the TH. Ugly, dirty stuff. Perhaps it's longitudinally a good thing, burning a mosaic of pygmy forest so that there is room for grasses and such? Yet today it's ugly, dirty stuff. We camp down the road in a decent campsite and enjoy a warming fire, prelude to a cool night.
     We're back on our schedule after the flat tire fiasco and the stay in Jacob Lake last night. This morning we pack up as the sun rises on snow-dappled Ponderosa Pine at 7800'. Back down to the Beefaloo Ranch/South House Rock Valley Road and 29 miles of decent gravel and dirt to the trailhead for Saddle Mountain - Nankoweap. No misfortunes today and Annette is now building a fine warming fire as we talk in anticipation about enjoying our own nougat of Nankoweap.
     Chili with beans and crackers; three bean salad in a can, hot cocoa and beer.

Photos- Nougat of Nankoweap - Day 3

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gcnankoweap2017-day3-1 Nanko View web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day3-2 At the overlook web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day3-3 Sunset from the saddle web.jpg

     Day 3: Cool Camp #2: To the FS/NPS boundary. (Day 1 of the backpack) 4 miles; ERM = 8. Camp @ 7600'.
     Arriving back near the FS/NPS boundary, we search for a somewhat clean and wind free camp. Not easy. As Holly points out, the wind scurries about, driven by the heat along The River far below, then finds its way through this gap in the cliff bands, directing the wind to us.
     We hike over to the Nankoweap vista to overview where we will be hiking, to the extent we can see the route. Nankoweap Mesa and Butte, Chuar, a glimpse of the Little Colorado drainage, a ranging view of spectacular country.
     The cold evening prompts an early bedtime at 7600'.
     Canned stew with crackers; peas; hot cocoa from the cache.

Photos- Nougat of Nankoweap - Day 4

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gcnankoweap2017-day4-1 starting down web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day4-2 On the contour web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day4-3 Esplanad traverse web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day4-4 Looking in Canyon web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day4-5 Tilted Mesa web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day4-6 Down web.jpg

     Day 4: Gnarly Nankoweap. Undulating To Nankoweap Creek. Nougat of Nankoweap: 7.5 miles; ERM = 18. Camp @ 3500'.
     The rolling contour continues past Marion Point and the behemoth (relative) pack feels like it is getting heavier. Maybe I'm not drinking enough water? On and on, undulating the gnarly Nankoweap. We study the route across the way to the divide between Nankoweap and Kwagunt, part of the Butte Fault Route.

Link to a report about backpacking the Butte Fault Route

     We'll need this visual memory because it's difficult to see the route at close range, and this route is the prospect for tomorrow. The massive Desert Facade borders the far side of The River in this section of Marble Canyon. Annette notices glimpses of this grand escarpment as we work our way toward Tilted Mesa.
     Down, up, undulate, then down to Tilted Mesa for lunch, then dramatically down on rolley limestone rocks. High clouds fluff across the sky and it's a pleasant afternoon. Into the Muav Limestone layer, down. As we roll onto the Nankoweap colluvium, I feel relief and hear the musical sound of Nankoweap Creek. Quiet enough to hear the distant trickle of creek. Lovely. It's Eaarthly quiet absent the air tour terrorists, which have returned to their fossil fuel stations in preparation to ruin some natural quiet, air quality, and provide visual pollution to the wild sections of Grand Canyon National Park tomorrow.
     As Bill McKibben has noted, we have altered our only Earth to such a degree that it is no longer Earth and it's more proper to call it Eaarth. The book is "Eaarth, Making Life on a Tough New Planet," 2010; Bill McKibben. We're getting a lot of help destroying our only home from the drastically inefficient airline industry, including the nonsense of air terrorist tours over a region with (potentially) remaining natural soundscape.
     Quickly setting camp in a delightful clump of Cottonwood, I enjoy a bucket bath far from the creek (so I can use a bit of soap) while Annette and Holly slip into a creek jacuzzi. Ahh. Conditions are so much more hospitable than those up at the saddle, and we're lounging in shorts after sunset. Deluxe.
     The lilting burble of Nankoweap Creek lulls us to sleep.
     Cheesy Scalloped Potatoes, with corn, green onion, and chicken; hot and sour soup; basil tuna. Wow, this sounds even better than it is.

Photos- Nougat of Nankoweap - Day 5

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gcnankoweap2017-day5-1 Out of Nankoweap web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day5-2 Up the Butte Fault web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day5-3 Gray day web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day5-4 Step carefully on the incline web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day5-5 Interesting rock web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day5-6 On the divide web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day5-7 wild layers web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day5-8 swirl web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day5-9 minor obstacle web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day5-10 faulting galore web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day5-11 faulted to the sky web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day5-12 sunset at Kwagunt web.jpg

     Day 5: Kwagunt Klimb. To Kwagunt Kreek: 4.5 miles; ERM = 9. Camp @ 3380'.
     Another pour-off. And another. We've climbed up to the Nanko-Kwagunt divide and into and out of rain, wind, and sun, traversing the shark fin and boulder slopes. The cheese-grater limestone and the shark fin are so treacherous that I dare not set down the pack to adjust the rain cover. Just think what this might do to your precious skin, I muse. Now, we're climbing around minor pour-offs on the route down toward Kwagunt Kamp. Not a long journey, yet quite slow going because of the texture and topography of the route. The gorgeous neapolitan banded shales, ebony plates, and grandeur is interrupted by over 48 turd-fondler helicopters and 29 fixed wing air tour terrorists. Yes, Annette keeps count of these intrusive, wasteful mauraders. More properly, they represent a bunch of corporate welfare artists, stealing the public resource of natural quiet (socializing the loss) for Yuge corporate profits (privatizing the gain) and destroying the soundscape of a wild area. Turd fondlers all. Dear Reader, did you know that Grand Canyon National Park was originally acclaimed for its soundscape (meaning natural quiet) and that this was (emphasis on "was!") one of the resources cited for preservation? Well, amoral immoral corporations and their people rule all. Yes, I know that corporations are people with more free speech than anyone and more puppet repulsican (all of them) and corporate democrats (too many of them) at their call to write legislation as they wish. Got to keep that corporate welfare flowing. Just imagine, your next "tax break" will include paying your break to corporations and the very, very (etc.) wealthy, while losing public services and land in the "bargain." One could say that corporate welfare artists contribute. Yes! they contribute air pollution, noise pollution, to global climate change and all the associated disaster and health costs, to the fattening of Americans and other people of the Eaarth, and theft of our public lands. Horrid. Yet for now, we have a nougat of Nankoweap.
     A storm gusts in as water is treated and tents are set, temporarily silencing the air tour terrorists, hurrah.
     A refreshingly quiet evening punctuated by roving bats is accompanied by a pink sunset and the serene burble of Kwagunt Kreek.
     Alfredo pasta, with peas, peppers, and chicken; hot and sour soup.

Photos- Nougat of Nankoweap - Day 6

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gcnankoweap2017-day6-1 Kwagunt morning web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day6-2 Kwagunt morning web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day6-3 Kwagunt morning web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day6-4 Into Kwagunt web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day6-5 Kwagunt swirl web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day6-6 Kwagunt web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day6-7 Kwagunt web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day6-8 Kwagunt bench hiking web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day6-9 Red spotted web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day6-10 Lower Kwagunt web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day6-11 Kwagunt perfection web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day6-12 Kwagunt Beach web.jpg

     Day 6: Beach Bop: To Kwagunt Rapids Beach, The Land of Sand: 3.5 miles; ERM = 4. Camp @ 2769'. River mile 56.
     Deluxe! Roving nude on the beach just downstream of Kwagunt Rapids. All the clothes are washed and drying on the tamarisk. A spectacular place to watch The River roil and roll as laundry dries and we lounge ecstatic on the sand under an invasive Tamarisk bush, beneath the towering Canyon escarpment called the Desert Facade. There's something primordially primitive about beach lounging in wild country. We have seen only one group of boaters, and no hikers since driving to the trailhead. The intrusive turd fondling air tour terrorists are another, and an aversively ugly, matter. Canyon colors range the hues from buff to salmon red, topped with the azure sky.
     Awaiting the lunch boat bears no lunch or snacks, so we eat lunch and loll away the afternoon on River time. The only issue is keeping sand out of things that do not do well in sand. As dusk descends, a down River breeze prompts us to move up to the penthouse, a high camp overlooking The River and Canyon, albeit we're still in the land of sand.
     The day starts with the discovery that a rodent has chewed holes in the Bronner soap and the sunscreen containers. What? Good thing my food, pots, etc. were safely ensconced behind the chainmail of the rat sack. Never in decades have I had issues with rodentia chewing on a soap container. Earlier today, we languish in camp, and head down Canyon as sunlight sweeps into Kwagunt Kamp. We hike down the streamlet amidst golden light, this hiking is fabulous and a treat after the halting progress to Kwagunt.
     Parmesan pasta with corn, chicken, and onions; miso soup. (no food scow)

Photos- Nougat of Nankoweap - Day 7

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gcnankoweap2017-day7-1 beach morning web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day7-2 Kwagunt Beach web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day7-3 part of Grand Staircase web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day7-4 downriver web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day7-5 Kwagunt Rapids web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day7-6 Not much trail web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day7-7 Riverside web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day7-8 Approaching Nanko web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day7-9 Nanko glow web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day7-10 Ruin watch web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day7-11 Moon peeks web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day7-12 visitor web.jpg

     Day 7: Sidewinder to Nankoweap: 4.6 miles, ERM = 9. River mile 52.
     The faint route disappears on the angled shale, it's just not there. Downslope movement or erosion has obliterated the boot-width way. Undulating through and around gulches, it's a sidewinder to Nankoweap along The River from Kwagunt. Carefully edging across a good length of the slope, a route reappears. The sun heats us and we find one of two drainages to The River for a cool water break.
     Onward. A trio of science rafts motor past, followed by three chase boats. We later learn that these scientists are bound for the LCR, Little Colorado River, to study Humpback Chubs. We traverse more slope and limestone-studded dirt to lunch at the second dip to The River. Inching along, we're getting close to the trail up to the Nankoweap granaries. It's been a good beating on a short stretch of route. It's certainly not a trail.
     Arriving at the first Nankoweap beach, we encounter an AZRA group and are treated to beer by Matt and Ed. Amazingly, Matt and Ed are neighbors of Annette and Holly. And, this association is good for extra cold beer, yippee.
     A buffanelia on the beach rounds out the day, followed by River gazing during dinner, under the watchful ports of the Nankoweap granaries high in the Redwall Limestone.
     The half moon peeps into The Canyon from behind the Redwall downstream, while little brown bats gyrate for insects.
     We see four River parties today and no hikers.
     As I get into the sand infested tent, a large and apparently friendly toad hops out from the clothing bags to say "hello, where are all the juicy bugs?"
     Jalapeño cheddar potatoes, with green beans, green onions, beef; hot and sour soup; 3 beers courtesy of AZRA, Matt and Ed (thanks!)

Photos- Nougat of Nankoweap - Day 8

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gcnankoweap2017-day8-1 Nanko Morning web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day8-2 Granary somewhere web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day8-3 Granary web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day8-4 Annette and Holly web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day8-5 Nanko ruins web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day8-6 view from ruins web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day8-7 with the ancients web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day8-8 starting down web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day8-9 precarious web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day8-10 AZRA web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day8-11 beer view web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day8-12 back to Nanko Cr camp web.jpg

     Day 8: Nanko Return. To Nanko trail camp: 5 miles. ERM = 9. Camp @ 3500'.
     I'm lounging against a polished boulder at the camp near the bottom of the Nankoweap Trail, swilling the last beer from boater booty, and avoiding the intense sun. Ahh, deluxe. We're back to the first in-Canyon camp, having concluded the loop around Nankoweap Mesa, via the Nanko-Kwagunt divide, Kwagunt to the River, River-side to the Mouth of Nankoweap Creek, and up Nankoweap Creek to this camp. The absence of solar load makes for a more hospitable afternoon as local sunset arrives. Hurrah.
     The day begins with a climb up to the Nankoweap granaries, where the experience is fine and the sun wrong for photography. What sort of calamity or blight or drought or war prompted people to store precious maize and such so far above anyplace suitable for farming? On the way down from the granaries, we meet Jackie of Durango (boater), who offers Holly and Annette a fuel can to replace the one back at Holly's truck (forgotten). It's a big, 16 net ounces, can and much appreciated. We take the opportunity to also unload the garbage and beer cans acquired yesterday. Thanks Jackie.
     It's searing hot as we pack and hike into Nankoweap drainage, meeting the first hikers of the trip.
     It seems to take a very long time to hike the few miles back to camp, even repeatedly wetting bandanas and shirts. Yet, we arrive early enough for major creekside lounging and catching up on this journal.
     Cheddar Broccoli pasta, with mushrooms, green onions, and chicken; miso soup.

Photos- Nougat of Nankoweap - Day 9

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gcnankoweap2017-day9-1 morning light web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day9-2 disabled deer web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day9-3 streamside geology web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day9-4 far out web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day9-5 cobblestone tilt web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day9-6 view from Nanko Butte web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day9-7 steep going web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day9-8 view North web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day9-9 coming down web.jpg

     Day 9: Nanko Butte: 5 miles. ERM = 17.
     The nearly square cobblestones form a flat walkway, yet are angled nearly 40 degrees with their geologic kin. We're walking up a side drainage to Nankoweap Creek, heading for, looking for a route up to Nankoweap Butte. As we leave the creek in the early morning coolness, we encounter a disabled deer with apparent muscle weakness (wobbling, jerking gait) and oddly stunted antlers, which look like a cauliflower antler. He moves the minimum away from the stream as we progress up canyon. On our return trip, we encounter him sprawled in the creek, apparently keeping cool.
     Starting up a slope we find the grade very steep and the shark fin of dark rock an obstacle over which we scramble, followed by more steep slopes. It's slow, halting progress to the nose leading to Nankoweap Butte. And, now it's genuinely hot punctuated by fierce bursts of wind.
     Then the quick climb to the top for a panoramic video.
     Taking a different route down, the going is much easier. We slide off the high point to the bluff top leading to the spring area of this Nankoweap tributary.
     Back in camp, it's time to sprawl in the creek, treat water, and rehydrate while awaiting local sunset.
     All night an intermittent gale shrieks up, then down canyon, flapping the tent and filling the rat sack with dirt and making sleep difficult. Fortunately, we're largely protected by Cottonwoods, brush, the winding canyon walls.
     Alpine Spaghetti; miso soup.

Photos- Nougat of Nankoweap - Day 10

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gcnankoweap2017-day10-1 petro boulder web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day10-2 petro boulder web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day10-3 petro boulder web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day10-4 metate web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day10-5 sherd web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day10-6 sherd web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day10-7 sherd web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day10-8 sherd web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day10-9 structure web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day10-10 sherd web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day10-11 sherd web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day10-12 sherd web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day10-13 outline web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day10-14 flake web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day10-15 sherd web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day10-16 overview web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day10-17 long view web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day10-18 sherd web.jpg

     Day 10: Ruination. Explore for structures: 4 miles. ERM = 5.
     The red on black pottery sherd glitters among the collection in the Pack Rat midden. Yowee. It's helpful when these rodents gather artifacts. There's more interesting stuff to see as we explore the benches of Nankoweap Creek. Outlines of structure foundations, a petro boulder, coiled pottery, black on white, unglazed utilitarian pottery, lovely. Some sherds have the remnants of rims, one where a handle might have been attached. Shard of glass, sherd (potsherd) of pottery. The day is cooler and breezy.
     As late afternoon approaches, the generous wind gusts return.
     As the light fades across the crenulated walls of Tilted Mesa, we're organizing equipment for an early morning start on the precipitous Nankoweap Trail.
     As the last unlawful air tour terrorist ruins the natural quiet of this supposedly "wild" area after sunset, the enthralling burble of Nankoweap Creek returns.
     Scrambled eggs with orzo, and TVP sausage, mushrooms, peppers, green onion; hot cocoa with Annette's Mexican spiced chocolate.

Photos- Nougat of Nankoweap - Day 11

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gcnankoweap2017-day11-1 morning out web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day11-2 morning out web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day11-3 morning out web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day11-4 morning out web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day11-5 morning out web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day11-6 happy hikers web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day11-7 morning out web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day11-8 some trail web.jpg

gcnankoweap2017-day11-9 Raven web.jpg

     Day 11: Nanko Up. To NPS/FS boundary and the cache: 7.5 miles. ERM = 18. Camp @ 7600'.
     Orion watches over the Milky Way, after the nearly full moon has set, and we are up in the night. On the trail at 6:15 a.m., we're up to Tilted Mesa about 9, where we pause for a break as the aerial turd fondlers destroy the public resource of natural quiet. What a jarring disruption of the solitude we are experiencing due to this intrusive, flagrant waste of resources and fattening of America. Get out and hike, hike the Trail of Time on the South Rim (enjoy the natural quiet!). Glide along in a wheelchair if you must. Get out of that infernal, polluting, flesh-flabbing flying tin tourist can and be in nature. Gee, I consider, I'm channeling Ed Abbey. And rightly so.
     The Canyon is vividly colored by the early light. Wonderful to observe, yet we must keep moving forward.
     On toward Marion Point for the next break. It's becoming a drag as we contour, contour again before the final climb to the Park-Kaibab Forest boundary. Soon the cache is located and tents set up. It's too cool and breezy for a proper bath, so a partial is enjoyed. Time to break out the scrumptious treats; sardines and crackers, Mexican cocoa with Nido, Elk droppings (chocolate covered almonds), peanuts in the shell, then dinner before heating a hot water bottle for sleeping pleasure. As the old body cools, ancient joints and muscles groan and creak. Argh.
     The moon peeks from behind the salmon-tinged Coconino Sandstone as local sunset chills the high camp.

     Day 12: Sand in your teeth. Down and Out, singing the song of Nankoweap: 4 miles; ERM = 8. Total miles = 56.6. Total ERM = 120.
     Wind literally shrieks and howls, nearly all night, a freight train roar. This gale rips tent stakes from the ground, flattens tents with its force, and imbeds sand and grit in everything. When the tent is collapsing a second time, a pole pokes a hole in the canopy. Holly and Annette's tent is periodically flattened by the gale and they have to get up to reorient it more into the wind. Horrible.
     It's impossible to sleep. Daylight finally arrives and we pack while fighting with the wind for our items, walk out, and go to the Marble Canyon Lodge for food and to dredge some of the dirt from eyes and ears. The rest of the cleanup will take a week, including dredging clumps of sand from my ears.
     Now, that's a Nougat of Nankoweap.

So Long - Moonrise over the Coconino SS, Day 11
So Long - Moonrise over the Coconino SS, Day 11
(Click the image for the full-size image)



Click here to enjoy the first Nanko report: Gnarly Nankoweap (2008)

Sonia's trip reports about GC hiking, and another report version about the 2008 Nankoweap adventure - her Trip 6.

here is the 2010 Nankoweap report - Chocolate Nougat Nankoweap (2010)

Doug’s Nankoweap page.

my attempt to describe the Marion-Seiber Route from the bottom

7 billion and counting - will anyone survive?

World population clock - watch the number spin, geometrically, and be frightened, very frightened.

Arithmetic, population, and energy - the geometric function (youtube mini-lecture on math)


Map - GC: Nankoweap to Kwagunt to Nankoweap
Map - GC: Nankoweap to Kwagunt (ignore the tag to Malgosa)
(Click the image to see the map)

for a full-resolution map, click here. Caution - do not use this map or gps track for navigating the route.

Other WV reports about the Grand Canyon:

Click here or on the Looking Lizard to go to all WV reports about The Grand Canyon

All Wilderness Vagabond trip reports about the Grand Canyon
Looking for All Wilderness Vagabond trip reports about the Grand Canyon?
Click the image to go to All WV reports about The Grand Canyon

Related Links:

David Chasey art

Scenic Toilets of Inner Earth

Steve's excellent photos - birds in flight, panoramas, etc.

the geology of the Grand Canyon by the NPS

climate change is not real
climate change is not real
(Click the image for the full-size image)

Compassion-free conservative
Compassion-free conservative
(Click the image for the full-size image)

no new texans - yahoo
no new texans - yahoo
(Click the image for the full-size image)

freeloading social security recipients
freeloading social security recipients
(Click the image for the full-size image)

dancing around the issues - part 1
dancing around the issues - part 1
(Click the image for the full-size image)

dancing around the issues - part 2
dancing around the issues - part 2
(Click the image for the full-size image)

keeping the wrong people from voting
keeping the wrong people from voting
(Click the image for the full-size image)

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