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Akiti Arch: 40' x 120'
(Click the image for a full-size view; Photo by Rob)
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Penstemon
(Click the image for a full-size view)
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Rainbow Arch (AKA, Cedar Tree), 76' x 43'
(Click the image for a full-size view; Photo by Rob)
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Trail Arch
(Click the image for a full-size view; Photo by Rob)
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Twin Arch
(Click the image for a full-size view)
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Hole in the Bridge Arch, 40' x 30'
(Photo by Rob)
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Overhanging Arch, 20' x 5'
(Click the image for a full-size view)
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Eye Arch, 30' x 5'
(Click the image for a full-size view)
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Trap Arch, 30' x 20'
(Click the image for a full-size view)
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1/2 of Twin Arch, 15' x 15'
(Click the image for a full-size view; Photo by Rob)
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Obvious Route, through Rainbow Arch
(Photo by Rob)
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Bye for now
(Click the image for a full-size view; Photo by Rob)
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Night 1: Driver Down: I saw the announcement
in the Wasatch Mountain Club newsletter about LaRae and Bart organizing a flatwater
canoe trip through the Ruby/Horesethief section of the colorful Colorado River. The
trip would start near Loma, CO and end at Westwater, ut. I signed-up to go, and Bart
helped find a paddle partner for me.
Margie G. and I perform a whirlwind
equipment prep and ride the provo propagation wave out of smog lake and utah county,
over Soldier Summit and on to Westwater, utah. The cross winds are building as we
plow the open distances past the land of the San Rafael. At Westwater, Bart and
LaRae arrive in their touring car, accompanied by a swirl of smoke and dust, carrying
a large mad river canoe and filled to the roof with equipment. The whistling wind
subsides, replaced by the gentle gurgle and burble of the Colorado River. Night
sounds include wild turkeys chortling and Canada Geese honking for position.
Day 1: Snakebitten
or smitten: We leave Larry's vehicle at Westwater
(for the return shuttle) and roar off into Colorado, bound for the Loma launch. There
are now 11 of us, in 5 canoes and 1 kayak. On the glorious river, we paddle a few miles
into a building breeze, accompanied by Great Blue Herons and a squadron of Turkey
Vultures. "Hmm, what are those vultures looking for?" I wonder, because they seem
to be following our drift down the Colorado.
We dock in the gooey sewage sludge at
the mouth of Rattlesnake Canyon and organize packs for a hike up to one of the highest
concentrations of natural arches in the country. It is a few miles and a thousand plus
feet up the unmarked, imperceptible, trail to the arches. We're hiking in the
recently-designated Black Ridge Canyons Wilderness. Yikes, an amazing assortment
of spans and potholes are eroded into this 160-million year old Entrada Sandstone cliff!
The desiccating wind sucks out what body moisture remains after the climb into arch nirvana.
A treasure of arches can be seen: Trail, Rainbow, Akiti, Trap, Overhanging, Eye, Twin, Hole
in the Bridge, and unnamed arches too, Yahooo. Spans eclipsing 75', with heights over 100'
are crowded into less than a mile of this petrified sand dune. I suck down the last of a
gallon of warm water while making the descent back to the river. My, it's a hot and blustery
day.
After regrouping, we continue downriver
into (thankfully) diminishing winds to locate a camp on a gravel bar. I gaze briefly at
the brilliant night lights of Jupiter and Venus before crashing to sleep.
Day 2: Tumultuous
Tornado: Bart is clanking pots together before the
raven caws his morning hello, and we are on the water before 7 a.m., attempting to log some
miles before the morning gale joins us. The distance from Loma launch to Westwater
take-out is approximately 25 river miles, and we have about 19 to go.
Seven of us eddy out at Salt Creek,
where the railroad tracks join the North side of the canyon, to wait for the others to
appear around the upstream sweeping bend. A kettle of vultures is already plying the
building breeze, and they appear to eye us with great interest. We soon learn that
wind and current had produced the first of three submarinings of the day. Blown off
course, then wedged between the downstream current and the upstream wind, Larry and
Camille's canoe had flipped, rapidly cooling the contents.
This canoe carnage continued
throughout the day, flipping two more canoes. At times we rejoice in watching wild
turkeys strut the shores, gaze at Great Blue Herons leapfrogging our group, and peer
at the graceful bend of a sandstone syncline sweeping the cliff face far above us. At
times we cling to willows along the shoreline, trying to not lose river miles in the
tumultuous tornado. There are upstream! whitecaps on this glorious Western river!
Because of the gusting gale, we
opt to run a safe slip around the main waves of the only significant rapids of this
section. The dark Vishnu Schists, polished a gleaming black, form some interesting
rollers, slightly-submerged rocks, and swirly eddies. Yes, it's the same layer one
sees in the basement of the Grand Canyon. Amazing stuff, this colorful Colorado River.
We creep exhausted into the
Westwater take-out about 5 p.m., concluding a looooong day of paddling into and
wrestling with the upstream wind. After running the return shuttle, the participants
scatter like freewheel bearings dropped on a marble floor. However, after a
wind-buffeted drive to Green River, Bart, LaRae, Margie, and I enjoy tales and
retellings of the tumultuous tornado in our traditional water hole of Ray's Tavern.
Although firmly seated on the substantial pine benches of Ray's, we feel like travelers
on an ancient sea, rocking back and forth, back and forth, because we all experience
various degrees of vertigo from the vigorous winds and (for me at least) total exhaustion.
Thanks to Bart and LaRae for organizing
this grand event. Participants included: Bart & LaRae Bartbartholoma (organizers
and chief canoeists), Margie Gendler, Camille Gleave, Larry Gwin, Rob Jones, Carmina
Lu, Mark Poritz, Mark Powell, Gloria Watson, and Leslie Woods.
The arch measurements were taken from a
limited edition series of books by a pioneer in arch-hunting: Robert H. Vreeland,
Nature's Bridges and Arches, Vol. 18, Colorado, 1982. My copy (1 of 250 produced)
was borrowed from The Archman!, Bob Fagley. Sadly, Bob died in 2012. His extensive
arch descriptions and photos can be found on the NABS (Natural Arch and Bridge Society) page.
Thanks, Bob, for the fun times over the years.
Links to other river reports:
DESOLATION DABBLING: RAFTING THE GREEN RIVER
Canotaje en el Rio Colorado, or Rafting the Colorado River
LABYRINTH CANYON: Canoeing the Green River
Stillwater Solstice: Canoeing the Green River: Mineral Bottom to
Spanish Bottom
A mamoth version of a private rafting trip on the Colorado River
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