Haughty Highline Trail Traverse:
East to West below the Mogollon Rim, Arizona
by Rob Jones, Wild Vagabond
 
June 6 - 11, 2020
53.7 miles; ERM = 93.8
Text © copyright by Rob; and Photos © copyright by Rob Jones

Total = 53.7 miles, with an ERM = 93.8

Co-adventurer - Solo adventure; assistance by Barry Brenneman and Patrick Fuchs

Camera - photos from the S-10 Smartass (sadly, the Panasonic ZS-60 died during the Rock Art Rhapsody Cruise)

Note: haughty as in high; elevated. Lofty; bold; adventurous.

Trailhead map of the HT
Trailhead map of the HT
(Click the image for the full-size image)
Supai Sandstone and Myrtle Point
Supai Sandstone and Myrtle Point
(Click the image for the full-size image)

Manzañita
Manzañita
(Click the image for the full-size image)
Track of the Bîggly Bear
Track of the Bîggly Bear
(Click the image for the full-size image)

Paintbrush
Paintbrush
(Click the image for the full-size image)
Mariposa Lily
Mariposa Lily
(Click the image for the full-size image)

Horned Lizardo
Horned Lizardo
(Click the image for the full-size image)
Leopard Froggy
Leopard Froggy
(Click the image for the full-size image)

.

     Overall Hike Map:
This is a map that uses GPS visualizer. It depicts the entire hike. You can move around within and beyond the map. Place your cursor on the waypoints to see their names. You can change the base map (e.g., to USGS Cal Topo, etc.) It's a fantastic map. You will see this map referenced below the daily maps throughout the report. Enjoy. ----> click here.

     Overview:This is a report about a solo jaunt, hiking the Highline Trail in Arizona. Starting on the East end of this trail, I hiked West below the Mogollon Rim, near the 6,000' elevation level for most of the hike.

     ERM = Energy Required Miles. A mile is added for every 500' elevation gain or loss. It's a very serviceable method of estimating energy required miles. ERM was initially used in Trails of the Tetons (long out of print) by Paul Petzold, founder of NOLS. It's a wonderfully useful concept and application. Add one mile for each 500' up AND down to distance = ERM. I use ERMs to calculate what the actual day is like. It's a very serviceable method of estimating energy required miles. Remember, however, that the ERMs are estimates because they depend on GPS satellite coverage and math functions.
     Using ERMs does not account for the 'texture' of the route or trail - that is, rocky, boulders, no trail, slimy mud, etc., yet does help approximate the route.
     See more information about ERMs at the end of this report.

     Background: The Highline National Recreation Trail is an approximately 57-mile, or so, trail that runs below the Mogollon Rim in the Tonto National Forest in Arizona. It's distance is changing because of ongoing trail rerouting. My mapping program arrived at a distance of less than this because of track discrepancies (53.7 miles), and a cumulative elevation gain of 9200', loss of 10,500'. The trail features vistas of rim canyons, brushy hills, distant mountains, unique rock formations, and wonderful stands of Ponderosa pine, P-pines. The trail was established in 1870 and was used to travel between homesteads and to attend school in Pine, Arizona. Zane Grey and Babe Haught used the Highline Trail while hunting. The Highline was designated as the Highline National Recreation Trail in 1979 and has become predominantly a hiking trail.
     The Western portion of the Highline Trail from the Washington Park Trailhead to the Pine Trailhead is part of the Arizona Trail - passage 26. Sections of the trail have been burned multiple times, including by the deadly Dude Fire in 1990, and the Highline fire in 2017, where part of the trail was used as a firebreak. This opened the canopy of glorious P-pines, producing hotter hiking conditions. The Eastern part of the trail underwent significant maintenance and improvement between 2012 and 2018. The trail is still evolving. Volunteers of Outdoor Arizona have worked on segments of the trail, http://www.voaz.org/
     It's been a chore trying to find water reports about the Eastern portion of the Highline Trail. I talk with a helpful woman at the Tonto NF and Patrick F., who previously hiked the trail. This helps. The segment of the trail West of Washington Park/East Verde River receives occasional water report updates via the AZT, Arizona Trail, app and these reports are more current than what can be found about the Eastern portion of the HT.
     My mapping program totaled this hike as 53.7 miles, with an ERM = 93.8. The HT distance is no doubt longer than 54 miles because of ongoing rerouting of the trail. Explanation: The mileage and elevation gain/loss are from my gaia mapping program. Gaia has a current, yet perhaps not the most current track and I used it. In good battery times, I'd track this myself and obtain on the ground info.

     Geology of the Mogollon Rim by Wayne Ranney: With the exception of the Grand Canyon, no other physical feature of Arizona’s landscape is more prominent than the Mogollon Rim. Five of the six National Forest in Arizona contain or border this spectacular escarpment (the only exception is the Coronado).
     But what is the Mogollon Rim? How did it form and when? The answers are only now becoming clearer as earth scientists complete detailed studies within Arizona’s Transition Zone Province, that area between the Colorado Plateau to the north, and the Basin and Range to the South. The Mogollon Rim lies in the heart of the Transition Zone and has undergone a fascinating evolutionary history.
     The Mogollon Rim is a high, forested escarpment, or line of cliffs that stretch almost continuously from Seligman, AZ to the Arizona-New Mexico state line. The heart of the Mogollon Rim goes from the small town of Strawberry to the developing communities of Pinetop-Lakeside. The name may have been derived from that of the colonial governor of Spanish New Mexico, Juan Ignacio Flores Mogollon, who administered these frontier lands between 1712 and 1715.
     Geologically, the Rim has been forming since at least 35 million years ago. Its story begins with the birth of the Rocky Mountains, when a mountain range was uplifted in central Arizona. Geologists call this now-eroded uplift the Mogollon Highlands after the escarpment they help create. When the Mogollon Highlands were uplifted, the sedimentary layers which make up the rim were tilted down to the northeast. And this tilted stack of sediments, which are most spectacularly exposed in the Sedona area, have been eroding (retreating) to the northeast ever since. House Mountain, which is a shield volcano located southeast of Sedona in the Coconino National Forest, erupted between 15 and 13 million years ago at the very base of the ancestral Mogollon Rim. The distance can be traced from the edge of the lava flows to the present-day Rim and determine that the Rim has been retreating at the rate of one foot every 625 years. At this rate, which is only an average, the colorful cliffs north of Sedona will erode back to downtown Flagstaff in another 79 million years!
     This escarpment, which provides Arizonans with a multitude of recreational opportunities and scenic vistas, is now being eyed by the thirsty desert cities to the south for its valuable water resources. The citizens of Arizona will be the ones who decide whether these resources are best utilized for continued urban growth or for a myriad of recreational pursuits. An informed educated public can best decide the wisest course of the Mogollon Rim’s future management.

     Geology of the Mogollon Highlands - USGS: Link to the USGS article about the geology of the Mogollon Highlands. Click here for the USGS report (pdf).

Map - 260 TH to See/Christopher - from my Gaia mapping program
Map - 260 TH to See/Christopher (large file, 5.8 mb) - from my Gaia mapping program
(Click the image to see the map)

Another version of the map can be found here. This version can be enlarged and may be more useful than the above map ----> click here.

Day 1 photos, Highline Trail

Click thumbnail to see full size image
highline-2020-day1-1  R at 260TH  w.jpg (537169 bytes)

highline-2020-day1-1 R at 260TH w.jpg

highline-2020-day1-2  Barry & Lucy  w.jpg (626079 bytes)

highline-2020-day1-2 Barry & Lucy w.jpg

highline-2020-day1-3  Columbine  w.jpg (361610 bytes)

highline-2020-day1-3 Columbine w.jpg

     Day 1: Hit the Beach. Hwy 260 TH to See/Christopher Canyon 6.7 miles, ERM = 11. Camp @ 6400'.
     I meet Barry B. for an early morning shuttle to the hwy260 TH, dropping the Subie Subaru at the Pine TH along the way to the 260.
     While dropping off the rim, a velvet antlered Elk jumps into the road ahead of us. Sleek and tawny, I wonder if his bachelor buddy herd is right behind, which will require evasive maneuvers.
     Barry and Lucy the Border Collie and I walk the groomed trail over patches of reddish sandstone slickrock (Supai Formation), the grade pleasant to the Drew Canyon Trail, which climbs to the rim, up through ocean-deposited Kaibab Limestone. Old beaches and petrified sand dunes, as described in this USGS publication provide the footing for today's hike Click here for the USGS report (pdf).. Ancient beachfront property.
     Today, 75 years ago (June 6th, 1944), the allies hit the beach of Normandy to rid the world of the horrible authoritarian of that era, Hitler. Currently, we have another destructive despicable narcissistic authoritarian despot using the same Hitler playbook, t-rump, the orange clown pufferfish. The entire world is suffering under the carnage wrought by this yuge selfish monster. Destroying health and planetary wellbeing, ushering in a plague (EtV, Evil trump Virus; COVID-19, no effort to stop or treat it) and a freewheeling economic and social depression, the cheeto only thinks of himself and how to blame others for his deliberate nasty acts that harm people and the Eaarth, and his refusal to act when needed. It's good to be on the trail and away from the constant barrage of horrid news about what t-rump has done or refused to do.
     Where the HT, Highline Trail, crosses the Drew Trail, we enjoy a snack and then Barry and Lucy head back to the 260 TH and I continue on in the mixed forest of P-pines, Douglas Fir, Alligator Juniper, Manzañita, oaks and such. There's a break to cooler weather over the next few days, yet it's still plenty hot in the open areas.
     I stop in the shade of a maple, alongside a clear trickle of water, filter a liter and enjoy the Columbine swaying in the breeze.
     Then, to See Canyon/Christopher Creek, where there's a noisy clog of people who have apparently hiked up from a nearby TH to frolic in the cool water.
     It's too late to continue to the next known water, so I relax in the shade of a fir and soak in the sweet smell of flowering Manzañita along with the vanilla goodness of heated P-pines.
     There's a maelstrom of propagation, noise, trash, and activity around See Creek and I look in vain for a camping nook. We have no chance of extracting ourselves from this climate mess unless the human population declines, significantly, and we have a more responsible government. I believe that a pandemic or maltreatment is not an humane or economic way to reduce the population of the Eaarth, but repulsicans apparently disagree, blocking access to affordable health care (birth control), privatizing education, trying to eliminate planned parenthood, widening income disparity, doing nothing to deal with the EtV (Evil trump Virus).
     New, old, and social trails are everywhere flat. So, I load up with water and inch up the trail West to the next ridge where it's quiet. Not bad but gusts of wind sweep the flattish section. I figure that the wind will die toward sunset, so I set up camp and gaze at the tree studded rim and my neighbors, the Alligator Junipers.

Map - See/Christopher to Dick Williams Creek - screen capture from GPS visualizer
Map - See/Christopher to Dick Williams Creek - screen capture from GPS visualizer
(Click the image to see the map)

Another version of the map can be found here. This version can be enlarged and may be more useful than the above map ----> click here.

Movie 1:  Horton Spring, 8mb
Movie 1: Horton Spring, 8mb
(Click the image to see the short video)

Day 2 photos, Highline Trail

Click thumbnail to see full size image
highline-2020-day2-1  Alligator  w.jpg (458558 bytes)

highline-2020-day2-1 Alligator w.jpg

highline-2020-day2-2  Morning  w.jpg (607633 bytes)

highline-2020-day2-2 Morning w.jpg

highline-2020-day2-3  Skull  w.jpg (788046 bytes)

highline-2020-day2-3 Skull w.jpg

highline-2020-day2-4  Manzanita  w.jpg (274502 bytes)

highline-2020-day2-4 Manzanita w.jpg

highline-2020-day2-5  Supai  w.jpg (603805 bytes)

highline-2020-day2-5 Supai w.jpg

highline-2020-day2-6  Supai  w.jpg (649453 bytes)

highline-2020-day2-6 Supai w.jpg

highline-2020-day2-7  Cactus  w.jpg (319726 bytes)

highline-2020-day2-7 Cactus w.jpg

highline-2020-day2-8  tracks  w.jpg (493844 bytes)

highline-2020-day2-8 tracks w.jpg

highline-2020-day2-9  colorful  w.jpg (294368 bytes)

highline-2020-day2-9 colorful w.jpg

highline-2020-day2-10  bluffs  w.jpg (466341 bytes)

highline-2020-day2-10 bluffs w.jpg

highline-2020-day2-11  Mogollon Rim  w.jpg (633381 bytes)

highline-2020-day2-11 Mogollon Rim w.jpg

highline-2020-day2-12  Footnote to camp  w.jpg (500441 bytes)

highline-2020-day2-12 Footnote to camp w.jpg

     Day 2: Horton says "Who?" To Dick Williams Creek 10.8 miles, ERM = 20. Camp @ 6250'.
     It's a crisp morning, I note, as the full moon glows through one flank of the TarpTent Notch and the early origin of sun brightens through the open door on the other side. Excellent bookmarks.
     I lilt along the early morning trail when I see Coatí Mundî tracks in the dirt. Alas, no Coatí do I see. When I stop for the first break on the salmon sandstone, a kettle of Turkey Vultures forms over me. Not yet being trail seasoned, I assume it's because of the thermals and not me.
     Turkey Vultures are among the few birds that have a sense of smell. They have been used to locate natural gas leaks in pipelines traversing fields. Could they smell me, reeling in their kettle? Naw, it's too early in the adventure.
     The trail continues, quietly and serene. Suddenly, there are Bufous Bear tracks in the trail. There's a feeling of wildness here, punctuated by the roving Bear tracks. And it stays this way to near Horton Spring. The East Fork is dry, yet there's a convention where the HT meets the Horton Creek Trail, with numerous people making the 9-mile loop of the Horton forks. And, I soon see how come. Water gushes from the hillside, clear and crisp, feeding yellow Monkey Flowers and Columbine. I talk over lunch with two young women who are hiking the loop. I initially thought that I might camp in the area, but the crowd and the mutilated ground convinces me to move on down the trail. In addition, it doesn't smell right here, a probable consequence of the high use. Besides, it's still early in the day and the brisk breeze and below torrid temperatures make the final decision. I later learn that camping is closed in the Horton area because of the presence of nesting Spotted Owls.
     As soon as I leave the HT-Horton intersection, the calm spirit of the trail returns and endures until I roll into the clear burbler of the Dick Williams riparian area. Here, the song of the water elevates the spirit of the trail. Elk and horse tracks dominate this section. Finding a bench camp on a reasonable slant, I call it home, not wanting to continue to the TH area near the Tonto Fish Hatchery, along, of course, Tonto Creek.
     The wind continues into the evening and is surprisingly cool, and I'm wearing wool t-shirt, hoody, and down jacket by dinner, despite being nestled in a Manzañita windbreaker nook.

Map - Map - Dick Williams Cr. to Ellison trickle
Map - Day 3: Dick Williams Cr. to Ellison trickle
(Click the image to see the map)

Another version of the map can be found here. This version can be enlarged and may be more useful than the above map ----> click here.

Day 3 photos, Highline Trail

Click thumbnail to see full size image
highline-2020-day3-1  sandstone  w.jpg (528886 bytes)

highline-2020-day3-1 sandstone w.jpg

highline-2020-day3-2  Elk  w.jpg (516665 bytes)

highline-2020-day3-2 Elk w.jpg

highline-2020-day3-3  fire pruned  w.jpg (628257 bytes)

highline-2020-day3-3 fire pruned w.jpg

highline-2020-day3-4  Supai  w.jpg (417623 bytes)

highline-2020-day3-4 Supai w.jpg

highline-2020-day3-5  bear  w.jpg (500162 bytes)

highline-2020-day3-5 bear w.jpg

highline-2020-day3-6  once upon  w.jpg (724701 bytes)

highline-2020-day3-6 once upon w.jpg

     Day 3: Deafening Natural Quiet. To Ellison Creek 8.3 miles, ERM = 13.7. Camp @ 6350'.
     Elk cows murmur to their calves in the early evening. Sweet and low eeking and Elk mutterings.
     Later, the Song Dog yips and yowls, not far from my tent, and awakening me from delightful dreams. This is precious. Until she continues for what must be 10 minutes or more. I talk with her, but apparently she is seeking someone else. Eventually, others reply from across the basin and I hear her trot off, staccato paw falls clearly heard.
     Its cool enough this morning that cradling the hot mocha mix between hands and thighs feels just right as the neighborhood woodpeckers or sapsuckers begin drumming.
     Tonto Creek is flowing in the background as I fiddle with the newly dead solar panel. It's been a reliable panel and its demise is not good.
     I note that there is a campsite available on the old road before getting to the fish hatchery road and TH. I cross the road and read the info in the trail register, where I learn that the area around Horton Creek is closed because of Spotted Owls.
     The trail rises to and stays in the Supai Formation slickrock. I'm thrilled because the Supai is the 5th layer down in The Canyon, Grand Canyon. It feels a bit like walking home. Ahhh. The West Fk Tonto is fading. This stream may be dry soon. Besides, it appears to be on private land.
     Elk rule the trail. I don't see other tracks. The saunter across slickrock and through old fire area provides great views but I'm guessing it's too open if hot.
     Taking photos of Myrtle Point and Lupine pause the hike.
     Now into a burned area with a free-dumb rider firebreak erosion ditch, which improves, then doesn't. With every incline there's an ankle-twisting jumble of fractured sandstone. Free-dumb riders appear to have found a way to get up on the old trail badly bladed into a fire break. Sigh.
     No water at Big Creek.
     The going is often slow, yet at the bottom of an erosion slump into a canyon I am delighted to see trickling water from La Ciénega Spring/E Fk Ellison. Yahoo. So, a respite under an Arizona Walnut is required to sip a liter and enjoy lunch #2. With all this open country, it's excellent to have a cool day and a gusting wind. It's almost cold in the deep shade.
     Solar panel is definitely not working, argh.
     I press on to Ellison Creek. More aptly Ellison trickle. It's a disintegrating trail due to fire damage, extensive erosion, and neglect. No wonder I don't see anyone today. I have to search far up trail for a level, somewhat sheltered (from the cool wind) camp. Noting the uncertainty of water until Washington Park, I opt for a bath and laundry day.

Map - Day 4:  Ellison trickle to East Verde
Map - Day 4: Ellison trickle to East Verde
(Click the image to see the map)

Another version of the map can be found here. This version can be enlarged and may be more useful than the above map ----> click here.

Movie 2:  Dude! Creek, 19mb
Movie 2: Dude! Creek, 19mb
(Click the image to see the short video)

Day 4 photos, Highline Trail

Click thumbnail to see full size image
highline-2020-day4-1  burn area  w.jpg (640351 bytes)

highline-2020-day4-1 burn area w.jpg

highline-2020-day4-2  marker  w.jpg (529717 bytes)

highline-2020-day4-2 marker w.jpg

highline-2020-day4-3  footnote  w.jpg (616940 bytes)

highline-2020-day4-3 footnote w.jpg

highline-2020-day4-4  AZT bridge  w.jpg (738489 bytes)

highline-2020-day4-4 AZT bridge w.jpg

highline-2020-day4-5  history  w.jpg (403558 bytes)

highline-2020-day4-5 history w.jpg

highline-2020-day4-6  share  w.jpg (420480 bytes)

highline-2020-day4-6 share w.jpg

     Day 4: Blown to Hells Gate, or Your Dudeness Awaits. Dust in your teeth. To East Verde River/Washington Park 10.3 miles, ERM = 17.5. Camp @ 6050'.
     Finally, I'm nestled in the cleft of dry Perley Creek for a late breakfast. The torrent of wind rages above, whipping trees like pompoms.
     I awake to the tent pressing down on my face. The whole tent is angled downwind after a peg is pulled in the nighttime gale. My sleeping pad is holding the works in place, sort of. It's a miserable windblown morning. Sounding like a locomotive, the gusts churn wildly down and across the drainage. I'm cold, there's no way I want to cook, so I start hiking.
     I sing that song "Dust in your Teeth," all you have is dust in your teeth. .... and so it goes. (Sung to the tune "Dust in the Wind" by Kansas.)
     The quality of trail is poor, with significant erosion and rocky texture and topography. The trail dives into Hells Gate and I'm soon off trail. Yes, the rocky trail plunges into the Hells Gate drainage, then disappears. Aptly named, it's like a gateway to hell, except that it's quite cold this morning. I find a tread and soon realize that it's the old trail. Eventually, I cut cross-country and I'm back on the trail.
     After Perley, there's an excellent enjoyable trail. This excellence lasts to where the HT begins to overlap the AZT, Arizona Trail at the East Verde, the Washington Park TH. Wonderful. And my clothing assortment is down to two layers from the four with which I started. Now the wind whistles mildly (relative to the morning hurricane) through the ghost trees.
     Bonitá Creek is flowing pure, with decent camping, a ribbon edge of green in the burn zone. I would have camped here if I was sure about the water.
     The sweetly revised trail continues to ramble the contours through a previously burned area, arriving at the main fork of Dude just in time for lunch #2. A gorgeous cascade of cold water ripples over red sandstone, forming a picturesque place for contemplation. To add to the magic of Dudeness, I realize that I haven't seen anyone since Dick Williams. Dude! Communing with the aura of Dudeness, I invest nearly an hour lounging under a huge Douglas Fir and relishing the Dude Creek burble. So much better than the cow burnt lands of the Easterly fork of Dude. To camp, one will be best advised to tank up with water and hike West about 0.5 to 1 mile, out of the burn and into the trees and flat terrain.
     The trail tours the contour of a red sandstone layer mostly until reaching the East Fork Verde, a pretty noisy place at times, especially on weekends because of the mob of visitors.
     Today, it's fairly quiet at the Washington Park TH. I look for some time for a camp outside the closed zone. Lots of hillside means poor camping.
     I note that there's a new AZT, Arizona Trail, bridge over the East Verde and say thanks to fellow VIP (Volunteer In Park) Roger Smith and the Arizona Trail crew that installed this elegant span. Thanks Roger!
     Finally, I locate a spot overlooking the East Verde and set up camp as the sun drops. Cool water cascades below, providing natural quiet. It feels like a lovely and calm evening.

Movie 3:  East Verde River, 26mb
Movie 3: East Verde River, 26mb
(Click the image to see the short video)

Map - East Verde to Webber/Geronimo - from my Gaia mapping program
Map - East Verde to Webber/Geronimo (large file, 5.3 mb) - from my Gaia mapping program
(Click the image to see the map)

Another version of the map can be found here. This version can be enlarged and may be more useful than the above map ----> click here.

Day 5 photos, Highline Trail

Click thumbnail to see full size image
highline-2020-day5-1  AZT bridge  w.jpg (712931 bytes)

highline-2020-day5-1 AZT bridge w.jpg

highline-2020-day5-2  Supai bowl  w.jpg (740370 bytes)

highline-2020-day5-2 Supai bowl w.jpg

highline-2020-day5-3  ZPaw & Mr. P  w.jpg (849535 bytes)

highline-2020-day5-3 ZPaw & Mr. P w.jpg

highline-2020-day5-4  raspberry  w.jpg (339448 bytes)

highline-2020-day5-4 raspberry w.jpg

highline-2020-day5-5  contour  w.jpg (679723 bytes)

highline-2020-day5-5 contour w.jpg

highline-2020-day5-6  Bray  w.jpg (538741 bytes)

highline-2020-day5-6 Bray w.jpg

highline-2020-day5-7  Bray  w.jpg (624832 bytes)

highline-2020-day5-7 Bray w.jpg

highline-2020-day5-8  spires  w.jpg (820037 bytes)

highline-2020-day5-8 spires w.jpg

highline-2020-day5-9  flower  w.jpg (300623 bytes)

highline-2020-day5-9 flower w.jpg

     Day 5: Braying with Bîggly Bear. To Webber Creek/Geronimo TH 9 miles; ERM = 16. Camp @ 5450'.
     After yesterday's good beating, I sleep in later than planned. The cool weather wave is predicted to end today, and I thought an early start would be good. Last night was warm and this morning has only a hint of coolness. Oh oh.
     It's a quiet trail this morning and I follow the tracks of Bîggly Mother Bear and her kin cubs off and on to Bray Creek. Braying with Bîggly Bear? It appears that they were out patrolling the trail last night because their tracks are ubiquitous, and fresh.
     Undulation may be the word for today, along with Bîggly, because the HT-AZT rolls and undulates through numerous drainages, some with glorious water and others as desiccated as trump's thought processes.
     Zpaw and Mr. P. come along, hiking the AZT, and we enjoy a good discussion.
     There's a spectacular bubbling gusher at the Bray Spring horse trough, about 0.14 miles below the trail. There's a frail dribble from the small pipe alongside the trail. The lower source is better. My legs notice that there are stickery wild raspberries galore, albeit not yet ready to eat. Bray is an excellent place for a long snack break.
     After the Bray break, it's umbrella time and the stopping in the shade is more frequent. A mature maple provides restoration shade at Bear Spring, which sports a low flow of water. True to its moniker, there's a Bîggly Bear track in the mud near Bear Spring.
     The first two cow Elk crash away before I have any idea they are nearby. I see the third in another mile or so before she runs and I try to shuffle to within camera range. Too many trees and a semi-cautious Elk. She clatters into the P-pines.
     I meet 3 women, one from Idaho and two from Flagstaff, hiking from Happy Jack to Pine on the AZT. They decline my request to take a photo, so there is no photo.
     Soon, the Geronimo TH and Webber Creek appear and I locate a camp on the West bench above the stream. The stream and camp are bordered with basalt, a first that I recall on this jaunt.
     It's definitely warm enough for a bucket bath (far away from the stream) which helps remove a pound of salt and 8 ounces of dirt. Ahhh.
     Including breakfast, I've downed a gallon of water today, some with the poor hiker's electrolyte, salt. And there's a liter of red miso with dinner. Irrigate, Irrigate, the motto of the HT.

Map - Webber/Geronimo to Pine TH - from my Gaia mapping program
Map - Webber/Geronimo to Pine TH (large file, 4.6 mb) - from my Gaia mapping program
(Click the image to see the map)

Another version of the map can be found here. This version can be enlarged and may be more useful than the above map ----> click here.

Movie 4:  Bray Spring, 12mb
Movie 4: Bray Spring, 12mb
(Click the image to see the short video)

Movie 5:  Bear Grass Buzby, 5mb
Movie 5: Bear Grass Buzby, 5mb
(Click the image to see the short video)

Day 6 photos, Highline Trail

Click thumbnail to see full size image
highline-2020-day6-1  distant view  w.jpg (482823 bytes)

highline-2020-day6-1 distant view w.jpg

highline-2020-day6-2  yucca  w.jpg (288957 bytes)

highline-2020-day6-2 yucca w.jpg

highline-2020-day6-3  twirl  w.jpg (494747 bytes)

highline-2020-day6-3 twirl w.jpg

highline-2020-day6-4  lizardo  w.jpg (474411 bytes)

highline-2020-day6-4 lizardo w.jpg

highline-2020-day6-5  red bank  w.jpg (744359 bytes)

highline-2020-day6-5 red bank w.jpg

highline-2020-day6-6  scat  w.jpg (787486 bytes)

highline-2020-day6-6 scat w.jpg

highline-2020-day6-7  agave  w.jpg (280397 bytes)

highline-2020-day6-7 agave w.jpg

highline-2020-day6-8  lichen  w.jpg (584450 bytes)

highline-2020-day6-8 lichen w.jpg

highline-2020-day6-9  footnote to cypress  w.jpg (501904 bytes)

highline-2020-day6-9 footnote to cypress w.jpg

highline-2020-day6-10  Andrew  w.jpg (450733 bytes)

highline-2020-day6-10 Andrew w.jpg

highline-2020-day6-11  paintbrush  w.jpg (257445 bytes)

highline-2020-day6-11 paintbrush w.jpg

highline-2020-day6-12  Claret Cup Cactus  w.jpg (758827 bytes)

highline-2020-day6-12 Claret Cup Cactus w.jpg

     Day 6: Haughty Highline Heat. To the Pine Trailhead 8.6 miles, ERM = 15.6.
     Total HT miles = 53.7 miles, with an ERM = 93.8.
     Morning Elk utterances wake me to Day 6. I'm on the HT early and wow, it's hot already and not even 6:30 a.m.
     The bees are having an excellent day. There's a Bear Grass buzby video to illustrate this. Lovely.
     Pausing in deep shade at defunct mud bog called Pine Spring, it takes a few minutes for my internal temperature to lower to close to normal. A tortillá with a thick coating of nütella and a half liter of peãch mangó green tea with a pinch of salt revives me for the next section of baked trail. All enjoyed under the saving shade of a deluxe P-pine.
     Continuing on, it's not far to Red Bank Spring, where the view ranges to the Matazal Wilderness and Mountains. A huge flowering Agave has been toppled, perhaps by the relatives of Bîggly Bear, and either a small species of bees or of some sort of fly are frolicking among the blossoms.
     I'm starting to wonder when the fabled downhill to the Pine TH might begin. I recall a long uphill when hiking these parts on the AZT, so where is the downhill? The trail enters the land of Pinyõn Pine and Arizona Cypress. This is the first area where I recall seeing Cypress on the HT. And, speaking of cypress, a gracious grove of Arizona Cypress provide shade for a long break.
     Andrew comes lilting along, as if he hadn't climbed up from Pine. photo
     A most excellent discussion is enjoyed with Andrew, ranging from the wily Bîggly Bear to the Arizona Cypress and Alligator Juniper. And, of course water sources. Andrew is hiking the AZT-HT to Horton and then up onto the Mogollon Rim.
     There really is no fabled downhill. It is downhill, yet well-graded. The downward decline dawdles downhill to the Pine Trailhead, ending in a clump of heat at the conclusion of the Haughty Highline Traverse Hike.

Movie 6:  Agave, 15mb
Movie 6: Agave, 15mb
(Click the image to see the short video)

     *ERM: Energy Required Miles, are there data to support this mileage adjustment?
     Journal of Outdoor Recreation, Education and Leadership
     Petzoldt first proposed his theory in his 1976 book "Teton Trails" to help backpackers plan trips and calculate their energy needs on mountain trails. "Petzoldt defined one energy mile as the energy required to walk one mile on the flat. He recommended adding two energy miles for every 1,000 feet of elevation gain, so a person hiking one mile and 1,000 feet upward would use the equivalent of three energy miles," Phipps said.
     Petzoldt's energy mile theory was just a reflection of the mountaineer's "gut feeling," Phipps said. The theory had never been tested in a laboratory before the study began in WCU's Exercise Physiology Laboratory in the spring of 2010, Phipps said.
     To determine the validity of the theory, the study measured the energy cost and perceived exertion for walking on flat ground, with and without a 44.5-pound backpack, and up an elevation gain of 1,000 feet, with and without the backpack, through the collection of metabolic data, Phipps said.
     Twenty-four student, faculty and staff volunteers, including 12 males and 12 females, went through four testing sessions as the research continued into fall semester of 2010. The study results showed that the additional energy cost for ascending 1,000 feet ranged from 1.34 to 2.02 energy mile equivalents, for an average of about 1.6 miles, compared to Petzoldt's use of two energy miles for each 1,000 feet. The range revealed by the study was due to the "hikers' personal weight differences," Phipps said. "It is remarkable that Petzoldt's energy mile theory is so close to the actual energy cost measured during our study," Phipps said. "In the field of outdoor education, it's important for leaders to include an estimation of energy requirements during the planning of hiking trips."
     Phipps said the energy required for hiking up steep mountain trails would vary for individuals and groups, and the variables of the trail would also factor in, but he recommends that backpackers stick with Petzoldt's idea of adding two energy miles for every 1,000 feet of elevation gain when planning trips.
     The Validity of Petzoldt's Energy Mile Theory, 2010
Authors: Maridy McNeff Troy, Maurice L. Phipps
Publication: Journal of Outdoor Recreation, Education, and Leadership

A footnote to froggy and frog toes
A footnote to froggy and frog toes
(Click the image for the full-size image)

Movie 7:  On the way, 15mb (Great Basin gopher snake (Pituophis catenifer deserticola))
Movie 7: On the way, finishing the HT; 15mb (Great Basin gopher snake (Pituophis catenifer deserticola))
(Click the image to see the short video)

Movie 8:  Gopher Gone!, 9mb (Great Basin gopher snake (Pituophis catenifer deserticola))
Movie 8: Gopher Gone!, 9mb (Great Basin gopher snake (Pituophis catenifer deserticola))
(Click the image to see the short video)

Can't see the Gopher Snake?
Can't see the Gopher Snake? Click on this thumbnail. Maybe that will help. Probably not.
(Click the image for the full-size image)

.

.

     Let's look at what one conservative columnist had to say about the EtV...........

     This Is Trump’s Plague Now:
     The first coronavirus spike, in late April, can be blamed on the president’s negligence. The second spike, in June, is his own doing.

by David Frum, Staff writer at The Atlantic /Getty / The Atlantic, Mon. 29 June 2020

     COVID-19 infections peaked on April 24, or so Americans assumed. State health authorities reported 36,738 new cases that day, a record. By mid-May, the US had reduced that rate of infection by nearly half, to 17,618 on May 11. The accomplishment had come at a tremendous cost: the lockdown of much of the national economy, Great Depression levels of unemployment, the shift to online schooling for millions of children, families denied final visits to dying loved ones. Still, these sacrifices had delivered the desired result. Had that progress continued, the American people—and the American economy—could have likely foreseen a further decline in cases and perhaps a near end to the pandemic, even before a vaccine.

     But that’s not what happened. On June 24, the number of infections surpassed the April 24 peak. On June 25, the number surpassed that of June 24. On June 26, the country suffered almost 46,000 new infections—nearly 10,000 more in one day than on the worst day in April. All of the sacrifices of the past weeks have been thrown away.

     The first coronavirus spike, in late April, can be blamed on President Donald Trump’s negligence. The second spike, in June, is his own doing. This is Trump’s plague now.

     A Washington Post report on June 27 captures Trump’s culpability with horrible aptness. The city of Tulsa, Oklahoma, has been enforcing social-distancing rules, and for good reason. From June 1 to June 15, new COVID-19 cases in the state jumped from 67 in a day to 186. In advance of Trump’s rally in Tulsa on June 20, city employees affixed Do Not Sit Here Please stickers to every other seat in the stadium venue. Trump campaign workers were captured on video removing the stickers so that Trump could cram attendees closer together. On June 26, Oklahoma reported 396 new infections in a single day.

     Trump’s rally may not directly account for all those new cases. But Trump’s elevation of the needs of his own ego over the well-being of even his strongest supporters is profoundly implicated in the virus’s powerful June comeback.

     Even before the viral peak on April 24, Trump urged the reopening of the US economy. On April 16, Trump convened the nation’s governors by conference call to press them to lift restrictions by May 1. The White House that day also released a set of highly permissive guidelines to inform the process, recommending a three-phased plan to begin after states had established a 14-day “downward trajectory of documented cases.” But how steep a decline? Many decisions were left to the governors, at least ostensibly. “You’re going to call your own shots,” Trump told the governors on the call. “You’re going to be calling the shots. We’ll be standing right along-side of you, and we’re going to get our country open and get it working. People want to get working.”

     At the time, this show of deference to the governors looked like a political retreat by the president. Days earlier, Trump had declared that he alone had “total authority” to reopen the economy—and it would be “the biggest decision I’ve ever had to make.” But the deference soon proved a sham. Trump was set on the widest and earliest possible opening, and he exerted the immense political power of his office to get his wish.

     In mid-April, protesters—many of them openly brandishing weapons—assembled at the capitols of Democratic-governed states to demand immediate reopening. Trump tweeted his support. “LIBERATE MINNESOTA!” “LIBERATE MICHIGAN!” “LIBERATE VIRGINIA, and save your great 2nd Amendment. It is under siege!”
     From mid- to late April, the trajectory of infections in states such as Georgia, Florida, and Texas was relatively flat, not down. Despite that, Trump cheered for governors to reopen fast and faster. On April 29, Trump declared that federal social-distancing guidelines would be “fading out.” “I’m very much in favor of what they’re doing,” Trump said in the Oval Office about the southern and western governors who were racing to reopen by May 1. The governors were responding to political pressures from local business owners, yes. But they were also obeying the president’s wishes and yielding to pressure from right-wing media.

     At first, Fox News hosts and guests had dismissed COVID-19 as a Democratic plot against the Trump economy. Just one example of many: On March 9, Sean Hannity said, “They’re scaring the living hell out of people. And I see them again as like, ‘Oh, okay, let’s bludgeon Trump with this new hoax.’” Then, in mid-March, the network abruptly switched its editorial line. Hosts not only voiced concern, but adamantly denied that they had ever done otherwise. “This program has always taken the coronavirus seriously, and we’ve never called the virus a hoax,” Hannity said on March 18.
     But as Trump pressed for reopening, the Fox News line shifted again. Hosts and guests tumbled over one another to demand more reopenings, faster, bigger—and to pooh-pooh any continuing danger from coronavirus. “The virus just isn’t nearly as deadly as we thought it was, all of us, including on this show. Everybody thought it was, but it turned out not to be,” Tucker Carlson said on his program April 27.

     On April 29, Florida Governor Ron DeSantis appeared on the Hannity program to tout his state’s triumph over the virus. “We know who the vulnerable populations are. We know, if you look at the statistics for people under 50 who don’t have chronic conditions, I mean, you have an extremely low chance of death from this virus and those situations. We know how to protect folks and social distance between those two groups, and so I think there’s a lot of things we’ve learned over the last six weeks. So I think we can take a step forward here in May, continue to build on that, and get America back.”

     On May 3, Trump staged his notorious town hall in the Lincoln Memorial—a site usually forbidden to be used for partisan purposes, but accessed by Trump via a special exemption. Trump used the occasion to exhort governors to reopen even faster than the guidelines had laid out. “There’s not too many states that I know of that are going up. Almost everybody is headed in the right direction,” he said. “We’re on the right side of it, but we want to keep it that way, but we also want to get back to work.” He praised states that were moving quickly to reopen their economies—and singled out Virginia as a state that was moving too slowly.

     By this time, Republican-led states had begun letting their stay-at-home orders lapse, starting with Georgia on April 23. Trump initially praised the Georgia plan, then criticized it—but ultimately approved it. Texas followed on May 1. Florida launched the first phase of its reopening on May 4.

     Trump promised vaccines by the end of the year, and a surging economy by the third quarter of 2020. And if anything contradicted all this happy talk, the president had his answer ready. “The only reason the US has reported one million cases of CoronaVirus is that our Testing is sooo much better than any other country in the World,” Trump tweeted on April 29. “Other countries are way behind us in Testing, and therefore show far fewer cases!”

     As Trump had hoped, good news began to arrive in the early part of May. Cases were trending down, as were deaths. On May 11, he tweeted: “Coronavirus numbers are looking MUCH better, going down almost everywhere. Big progress being made!” Trump ran another victory lap on May 17. “Doing REALLY well, medically, on solving the CoronaVirus situation (Plague!). It will happen!” That same day he added: “The number of Coronavirus cases is strongly trending downward throughout the US, with few exceptions. Very good news, indeed!” That was fateful timing. The COVID-19 news from mid-May on would almost all be bad.

     What went wrong? Early reopening could only have worked if stringent safety measures, including the use of face masks and social distancing, were incorporated. Yet the president sabotaged the reopening he himself had forced. Throughout his presidency, Trump has subordinated rational policy in order to provoke virulent culture wars. And the mask has become a rallying symbol for his supporters.

     Trump never wears a mask in public, and he has mocked Joe Biden for wearing one. “I see Biden. It’s like his whole face is covered. It’s like he put a knapsack over his face. He probably likes it that way,” Trump told The Wall St. Journal on May 21. The Journal’s Michael C. Bender then followed up. He remarked that Trump often negatively commented on masks, especially when worn by White House reporters. “Do you view that as a protest of you? Do you feel like people wear masks to show their disapproval of you?” Trump allowed that it could be—then attacked the health hazards of masks—then expressed indifference whether his supporters wore them or not.

     Rush Limbaugh mocked the mask as a “symbol of fear” on May 15. The former Fox anchor Brit Hume joined in. On May 27, a writer at the pro-Trump web publication The Federalist posted a piece headlined, “Mandatory Masks Aren’t About Safety, They’re About Social Control.” The author, Molly McCann, warned: “If everyone is wearing a mask, it telegraphs a society-wide acceptance that the status quo has changed.” That morning, a pro-Trump writer named Lee Smith tweeted a link to the article, amplifying McCann’s paranoia. “Terrific @molmccann piece in @FDRLST — masks aren’t about public health but social control. Image of Biden in black mask endorses culture of silence, slavery, and social death.” Smith is a major figure in the pro-Trump media landscape. Formerly a Middle East correspondent for Bill Kristol’s Weekly Standard—and still connected to the eminently mainstream Hudson Institute—he has plunged deep and thick into the pro-Trump cause. In the early morning of May 28, Smith’s tweet got a retweet from Trump himself.

     You might not imagine that there would be much room to escalate anti-mask rhetoric from “silence, slavery, and social death.” You would be wrong. An Arizona city councilman derisively appropriated George Floyd’s dying words, “I can’t breathe,” to mock mask-wearing. Sebastian Gorka, a former Trump adviser, found a way to go even further than that on his June 23 radio program.
     Caller: I wanted to discuss what I call the Democrat Islamo-Maoist masks that their dictators demand. Sebastian Gorka: You mean the COVID burqas, the COVID masks. … You know, there’s something inhuman about it, isn’t there? The idea that you cover the face. Not only does it dehumanize the individual in that interaction with another human being, but also it is, you’re right, an act of submission.

     Millions of citizens obeyed the cues from Trump, the right-wing media, and the medical crackpots who predominate Facebook. While the great majority of Americans approve of mask wearing in public, only 40% of Republicans do. On June 20, a short video showed up on Twitter of a middle-aged man in shorts trying to enter a Florida Walmart unmasked. When a masked store employee politely reminded the customer of store rules, the man shoved the employee so hard that the shover actually fell over from his own momentum. The customer got up and pushed the same employee again to force his way in. Perhaps the customer was carrying one of the fake “anti-mask exemption cards” now circulating on the internet and social media for printing at home.

     As the US nears the 4th of July, the disease is reviving. Some Trump supporters want to blame the Black Lives Matter protests for the spike. But the states that mounted the largest protests have seen caseloads decline since George Floyd’s death. Minnesota reported 645 new cases on May 26, then 493 on June 26. New York recorded 1,044, then 804 on the same dates. Washington, D.C.’s 109 cases on May 26 fell to 26 by June 26. Granted, not everybody who protested in those places lived in those places, so perhaps some demonstrators carried the virus to other states. But there’s certainly no obvious link yet. Meanwhile, JPMorgan has found powerful connections between rising restaurant spending and, 3 weeks later, increasing COVID-19 infections.

     The disease is spiking in places precisely where state governments hastened to reopen bars, casinos, restaurants, shopping malls, and other indoor places of entertainment. Phoenix, Houston, and other southern cities are suddenly reporting caseloads that look like New York City at its worst. Florida reported nearly 9,000 new infections on June 26, nearly equaling some of New York’s worst days. Texas recorded almost 6,000 new cases that day. Arizona reported nearly 3,400 new cases on June 26 and now suffers more cases per capita than Brazil or any country in Europe.

     In the face of this worsening crisis, Trump is not taking action; he’s instead shifting the goalposts: Don’t pay attention to the case rate, he now argues. Look at the death rate. Last week, he tweeted: “Coronavirus deaths are way down. Mortality rate is one of the lowest in the World. Our Economy is roaring back and will NOT be shut down. ‘Embers’ or flare ups will be put out, as necessary!” But deaths lag behind infections, and a rise in cases in late June warns of more deaths to come in late July. We’re already well past the death toll of 100,000 that Trump predicted at his Lincoln Memorial town hall only eight weeks ago.

     Trump’s hopes for a third-quarter economic recovery are also blighted. Spending data suggest that the upward trajectory of May and early June has halted and reversed in the states that have opened. The slight uptick in employment in May now may prove abortive. For millions of American families, the hardest reckoning arrives on July 31, when the federal government stops supplementing state unemployment insurance benefits. Those who have kept their jobs face other hardships. Will schools reopen in September? It looks more and more doubtful.

     At the onset, the pandemic was aggravated by Trump’s negligence and indifference. He had dismantled the country’s pandemic preparedness. He denied the disease for two months. He made one crucial mistake after another.

     Even so, Trump could plausibly shift at least some blame for the arrival of the disease. The pandemic did originate outside of the US, China did cover up the disease, and the World Health Organization did enable China. Trump could also argue that even those countries with the best responses were hit hard for many weeks.

     But what has happened in the US in June, and what will happen in July, is entirely Trump’s fault. The president’s approach to the virus has been guided by his lifelong beliefs: It’s just as real to say you have done a good job as to do a good job. Denying you failed is just as real as actually succeeding. This time, though, reality will not be blustered away. Tens of thousands are dead, and millions are out of work, all because Trump could not and would not do the job of disease control—a job that includes setting a positive example to those Americans who trust and follow his leadership.
     Across the rest of the developed world, COVID-19 has been ebbing. As a result, borders are reopening and economies are reviving. Here in the US, however, Americans are suffering a new disease peak worse than the worst of April. How lethal will this new peak be? We will learn that the way we seem to learn everything in this era of Trump: the hard way.

     David Frum is a staff writer at The Atlantic and the author of Trumpocalypse: Restoring American Democracy (2020). In 2001 and 2002, he was a speechwriter for President George W. Bush.

.

.

Related Links:

Full track map of the Highline Trail - move around in this map

.

Geology of the Mogollon Highlands - USGS report (pdf)

.

Quest to hike the AZT, Arizona Trail. All WV reports

.

Connector trails of the HT, old png file

.

Scenic Toilets of Inner Earth

.

Falter - we've used up our chances, Earth is now Eaarth; we'll be moving on, but where? by Bill McKibben

.

biblical justice for t-rump (Kimmel video, 5 mb)

.

trump's lies about corona virus, up to early June, 2020 (more lies in progress)

.

More Truth Than Joke, notes about failed and corrupt leadership in the time of the EtV (Evil trump Virus, COVID-19):

economy over lives
the economy over lives
(Click the image for the full-size image)

non-essential worker
non-essential worker
(Click the image for the full-size image)

no help from trump
no help from trump
(Click the image for the full-size image)

The grim tweeter - economy over lives
The grim tweeter - economy over lives
(Click the image for the full-size image)

Pooper
Pooper
(Click the image for the full-size image)

it's OK if I do it
it's OK if I do it
(Click the image for the full-size image)

mired in EtV
mired in EtV
(Click the image for the full-size image)

Confederacy of dunces
Confederacy of dunces
(Click the image for the full-size image)

trump takes care of trump, that's it
trump takes care of trump, that's it
(Click the image for the full-size image)

death to America
death to America
(Click the image for the full-size image)

it's been moved
it's been moved
(Click the image for the full-size image)

trumpish, a definition
trumpish, a definition
(Click the image for the full-size image)

t-rump Venn analysis
t-rump Venn analysis
(Click the image for the full-size image)

Beatles Venn of Zen
Beatles Venn of Zen
(Click the image for the full-size image)


Wild Vagabond Main   Trip Report Index   Caveat