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Rimster:
Grand Canyon Corridor Cruise / Rim - to - Rim - to - Rim in Grand Canyon NP / South Kaibab Trail / Bright Angel CG / North Kaibab Trail / Ribbon Falls / Cottonwood CG / North Rim / Bright Angel Trail October 12 - 16, 2012 Text © copyright by Rob Jones and Photos © copyright by Rob |
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Co-Adventurer: Kathleen Jones
ERM - Energy Required Miles. A mile is added for every 500' elevation gain or loss. It's a very serviceable method of estimating energy required miles.
Total trip - (per my GPS) 48.4 miles and total ERM = 92.3.
Camera - Panasonic DMC-FZ7
Movies: You may wish to begin downloading the movies as you peruse the report - this way, they will pop up to view (and you won't be waiting). The movies in the below list are also seen interspersed in the text. The movies are:
Movie of Ribbon Falls - scanning - 5.8mb.
Movie of Ribbon Falls - stationary - 1.5mb.
Movie from behind Ribbon Falls - stationary - 1.4mb.
Movie from behind Ribbon Falls - scanning - 4.8mb.
Movie of burble below Ribbon Falls - 1.4mb.
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for a full-resolution map, click here. Caution - do not use this map or gps track for navigating the route.
Overview: Kathleen and I hiked an ethical
(displaying trail courtesy, unlike rim-to-rim (R2) runners or fast walkers - see data below),
rim-to-rim-to-rim backpack on the Grand Canyon corridor trails. South Kaibab to North Kaibab
to Bright Angel. Yes, it's them there data, not your opinion, that counts. Data show (how
come so many use "data" as a singular, data are, datum is; it's certainly not "datums") that
R2s rarely exhibit trail courtesy and that courtesy is nearly completely absent among trail
runners (that is, 0% of runners we encountered were courteous).
90% - Backpackers exhibiting trail courtesy - very good.
wgc-rimster-2012 day1-1 Kathleen and friend on Kaibab Express bus.jpg
2.5% - (5 out of 200) R2 yield to uphill hikers - abysmal.
O% - trail runners yield to uphill hikers - bushco winner.
GC Rimster - Day 1
Day 1: Damp Angel: To Bright Angel (BA) CG.
7.2 miles per GPS. NPS miles = 7.0. Elevation loss of 4570 and gain of 350'. ERM = 17.0.
Camp at 2500'.
The cool rain sweeps across the Tonto Platform and leaks
through my partially-open jacket to dampen my camera case. It plasters wet pants to my
legs and sends a dull ache through my arthritic fingers. Argh. Rain squalls have pursued
us throughout the day as we ease down the glorious South Kaibab Trail.
The storm passes and we hike awhile before the next one
arrives. We can predict the arrival of the squalls because the temples and buttes to the
West fade into the storm bulk, disappearing into a gray mass not long before the front hits
us.... The rain clears the air and brightens the colors of rocks made by time.
As we corkscrew into basement rocks, approaching the Black
Bridge, it rains seriously, and we hide out in the tunnel to the bridge, and then under
an overhang, before strolling to the camp and setting up the tent. As soon as the tent
is up, the rain stops.
I walk the river trail between bridges, then Kathleen and
I walk to the cantina and eat a leisurely lunch (our lunch).
The day started with a huge bull elk eyeballing us as we
drive across the Kaibab NF. He's sniffing for cow elk, so pays us little attention. Big
buck deer flit like ghosts in the Ponderosa. There's not enough light to get any photos.
The mnemonic goes like this (read down, use first letter of starting word as a reminder - from the rim, down; with mixed layers near The River that do not follow this convention):
Know - Kaibab Limestone
The - Toroweap Formation
Canyon's - Coconino SS
History - Hermit Shale
Study - Supai Group (including the Esplanade)
Rocks - Redwall Limestone
Made - Mauv Limestone
By - Bright Angel Shale
Time - Tapeats SS
Know The Canyon's History, Study Rocks Made By Time.
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Day 2: Cottonwood Clog:
To Ribbon Falls and Cottonwood CG. GPS = 9.0. NPS = 7.2 + distance to Ribbon Falls.
ERM = 13.5. Camp at 4000'.
Another phalanx of unyielding, republican-behaving
(freedom is where my "rights" get priority over all others) trail runners and rim-to-rimmers
(R2) nearly collides with me as I hike up Canyon. Is there any thought about carrying
capacity or preserving natural value? No, just look at the population policies of the U.S.,
indeed, most of the world. Horrid, discourteous, louts and scum. I am relieved to round
a corner in The Box, the basement rock slot of BA Creek, and not see R2s as they ignore all
trail conventions and abuse the park resources too.
I keep track for awhile: out of 200 that I pass, only 5
R2 yield to uphill hikers (2.5% courtesy score, abysmal). No runners yield at any time
(0% courtesy score, republican). It's certainly difficult to enjoy the trail and its aura
with this overpopulation of self-absorbed, self-important, selfish narcissists. A few of
these misfits is an irritation. Hundreds produces a Canyon catastrophe. Litter, noise,
clogged trails and facilities, clothing discarded, and a strain on search and rescue and
other resources they are not funding. Backpackers comport themselves more ethically -
demonstrating trail courtesy about 90% of the time. Repulsicans of the modern day vote
against funding government services about 100% of the time. I say, give these R2 a sacrifice
trail, one on the North and one on the South rim. How about the Uncle Jim on the North, and
the Abyss on the South. It's only a vestige of my concern for their welfare that I say -
relegate them to one trail on each of the rims - for their and the Canyon's best interests.
Last night, Bill V. had warned us to wait until at least 9a
before hiking to avoid the R2 trail terrorists. We do so, and Pete, surveying the trail, tells
us he has already counted over 200 R2 and that the Park is concerned about this "emerging" issue.
Emerging?! It's a full blown bushco!
After the serpentine swirl through the narrow section past
Phantom Creek and beyond, K and I pause to visit Ribbon Falls. Gorgeous. Water and deposition
in action. Then, the short climb to Cottonwood Camp, where we enjoy a relaxing afternoon, bath,
view of the tiny natural bridge, and a general wander of the area prior to enjoying sunset on
rocks made by time. A Ruffous-sided Towhee kicks into the area and nearly explores into the
open tent in his search for bugs. The BA Creek forms a pleasant background to the slightly
cool evening.
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Day 3: Rimster: To North Rim and Back.
GPS = 13.1 (30.9). NPS miles = 13.6. ERM = 31.2. Camp at 4000'.
After nearly seven miles of over 4000' of elevation gain, I'm passing
golden glow Aspens and fading color oaks and maples and almost to the quite cold North Rim. Yes.
Rimster. (4 hrs up; 3.5 down) I'm at the North Kaibab TH, with goosebumps on my arms. A quick
snack, a refill of the platypus, and I'm sliding back into The Canyon, headed for a leisurely
rim-to-rim-to-rim. Yet, of course there's a stay at Cottonwood and again at Bright Angel CG before
logging that last rimster on Day 5, and this is a good thing, a more ethical and harmonious path than
those annoying, callous rim trotters.
Down, through the Kaibab, the Toroweap, the white cliff of Coconino SS,
into Hermit Shale and the Supai Tunnel, where I meet George Vargas and C. J. Malcolm of SAR, George a
volunteer and C. J. the supervisor of SAR for the North Rim.
Down, into the walkways of Redwall notched into this mass of limestone,
running into the Muav and aural-visual splendor of Roaring Springs.
Soon, the new scenic outhouse at the pumphouse residence rolls into view.
Scenic toilet! Lovely. I'm feeling a bit wrung out, so I stop for a foot, water, and third snack break.
It's a bit hot as I stroll the last of the distance to Cottonwood CG, where K has been day hiking and
recovering. Back in camp by 3:30p, it's been a 7-hour jaunt, counting breaks. Now, a bath before local
sunset sounds excellent. Then, as the small herd of Deer Mice scamper, the light fades from Canyon walls
and the dining room lights are switched on at the North Rim Lodge, followed by Orion and friends.
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Day 4: BA Return:
To BA CG. GPS = 7.6 (38.8 total). NPS miles = 7.2. ERM = 10.6. Camp at 2500'.
The cool air envelopes us as we enter the basement rock gorge
(the Box) of BA Creek. Luscious. We're up early and touring the North Kaibab Trail long before
sunlight reaches the Cottonwood scenic toilet. Although much more subdued in number, the trail
runners and rim hikers are no more considerate, that is, not considerate at all. Horrid.
Passing the mouth of Phantom Creek, the sunlight leaks in, yet
we're almost to BA. A beer in the cantina and a wander of the river trail and an early evening
search for fox and deer is quite productive, although there is insufficient light for a good photo.
Bil V. again comes by to see if we survived the hoard of trail runners - we have, yet with grumpy
dispositions. The lilting loll of BA Creek washes away the grumpiness.
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Day 5: Final Rim: Out BA. GPS = (48.4 total miles).
NPS = 9.5. ERM = 20. (Total ascent of 10,880' and descent of 11,038'); ERM total = 92.3.
Up with Orion, we're finishing the last cookie and cocoa and packing
as light replaces billions and billions of stars. We're completing the rimster, hiking out the BA Trail.
Still, there are a few r-money runners, who yell "I'm coming through!" rather than observe common trail
courtesy. Perhaps, someday soon, he will be elbowing his way past a not-so-gentle mule and we taxpayers
will have to pay to have his cheese-grated corpse flown out of our Canyon?
It's a joy climbing up through basement rocks and the Tapeats SS to
Indian Garden, where we loaf awhile in the amphitheater and eat some snacks. Then, up more - almost
totally in the shade of big walls today.
I'm low on energy as we creep past the pictos in the Supai layer, yet
delight in the artistry nonetheless. Rimster! Wonderful. We pause at Plaza Bonita to recharge,
then head for home.
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 wgc-rimster-2012 scenic toilet 10 Garden Creek near River.jpg |
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Maps:
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for a full-resolution map, click here. Caution - do not use this map or gps track for navigating the route.
Movies:
Movie of Ribbon Falls - scanning - 5.8mb.
Movie of Ribbon Falls - stationary - 1.5mb.
Movie from behind Ribbon Falls - stationary - 1.4mb.
Movie from behind Ribbon Falls - scanning - 4.8mb.
Movie of burble below Ribbon Falls - 1.4mb.
YouTube versions of videos:
short Ribbon Falls, camera stationary:
view from behind Ribbon Falls
burble below Ribbon Falls:
Ribbon Falls - scan with camera:
Books: Eaarth : making a life on a tough new planet, McKibben, Bill,
Time Books, 2010.
Maybe one : an environmental and personal argument for single-child families, McKibben, Bill, Simon & Schuster,
1998.
The end of nature, McKibben, Bill, Random House, 1989.
A River Runner's Guide to the History of the GRAND CANYON,
Crumbo, Kim, JOHNSON BOOKS 1880 South 57th Court, Boulder, Colorado, 80301
1994.
Other WV reports about the Grand Canyon:
Click here or on the Looking Lizard to go to all WV reports about The Grand Canyon
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Related Links:
the geology of the Grand Canyon by the NPS
the geology of the Grand Canyon by Bob Ribokas
CCC - Civilian Conservation Corp - in the GC, pdf file, 1.2mb.
More Truth Than Joke:
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