Long Ranger:
Kanab Creek Wilderness: Snake Gulch to Sowats Point
April 29th to May 8th, 2006
by Rob J.

Text © by Rob J.; Photos © copyright by Rob

Jumps to these sections: (click on section name to go there, then on 'top' hand to come back here)

Esplanade Terrain Song
Mark's Report
Rob's Day-by-Day Report
Maps and GPS tracks
Links
Photo Banks
      Bank 1
      Bank2
      Bank3
      Bank4

kc-group - left to right, gordon, ken, kathleen, al, mark, robert, aaron, rebecca, paul, mary
Group in Shelter
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Picto in Snake
Picto in Snake
(Click the image for a full-size view)
kc-group at ed hatch - aaron, kathleen, rob, gordon, mary, al, paul
Seven at Ed Hatch
(Click the image for a full-size view)
horned lizard
horned lizard
(Click the image for a full-size view)
fossil rock
fossil rock
(Click the image for a full-size view)
swapp grp-rebecca, robert, mark, ken
swapp group
(Click the image for a full-size view)

Map- Kanab Creek Wilderness: Snake Gulch to Sowats Point
Map- Kanab Creek Wilderness: Snake Gulch to Sowats Point
(Click the image to see the map)

If you want to view a full-resolution map, click here. Caution - do not use this map or gps track for navigating the route.

Let's begin with a song: Esplanade Terrain - Sung to the tune of "Acid Rain" by the Austin Lounge Lizards: Highway Cafe of the Damned - 1988 (Sugar Hill Records; SUG-CD 3901)

Off we go, the intrepid eleven;
As we grunt into Snake Gulch heaven.
While we keep on rolling, Without refrain;
Toward that Esplanade terrain.

Because of monstrous pack weight, we are all in pain;
Packing for 9 days; we do not hike in vain.
On and on we are hauling, toiling;
Thinking Esplanade terrain.

Esplanade, keep on rolling;
As we 11, we are strolling.
While here is great, we all exclaim;
Where's that Esplanade terrain?

Seeing pictos in the shelters;
And some petros, scattered helter-skelter.
This is just exactly what we came to do;
You cannot imagine doing this, can you?

Some go out Swapp;
To Fredonia it's a quick hop.
The rest remain;
heading to that Esplanade terrain.

Now we are the Magnificent Seven;
In this country like heaven.
Marching down rock slabs;
Just South of Bigotville, Kanab.

Cow fondlers and tree huggers;
Without Ed Hatch water, all would be strugglers.
And against the Zane Grey sky;
Neither has a reply.

The Lost Ranger trail 41, where is it?
Looking, scanning, we could have a fit.
No Esplanade on which to be roaming;
At the mouth, we are foaming.

Esplanade, keep on rolling;
As the rain, it is falling.
And with the sun, it's like a flame;
On this Esplanade terrain.

Walking around slickrock canyons, without a handrail;
Inching, striding, promenading - mostly like a snail.
Esplanade, keep on rolling;
As the rain, it is falling.

When we came to Lawson - thought we were half-way;
Without the clouds & showers we would not have survived the day.
Esplanade, keep on rolling;
As the wind, it is blowing.

After 13 on the Ranger and only 3/4 done;
If not for rain-filled potholes, we'd be raisins drying in the sun.
Esplanade, keep on rolling;
As the sun, it is glowing.

So, thyne Jugs of Jeremy* did fall from the sky;
We made camp on the slickrock, and did not fry.
Esplanade, keep on rolling;
As the shadows they are growing.

And, we did speak of the scrolls of Jeremy;
Up on this gentle layer, so much better than hegemony.
It's delightfully deluxe, we all acclaim;
This glorious Esplanade terrain.

Well, the rain provided rescue;
While we enjoyed a panorama view.
Respite from the desiccated trudge;
Over all this world we judge.

Esplanade, keep on rolling;
As the sun, it is glowing.
Even with the sun, hot as a flame;
I love this Esplanade terrain.

First foreigners of the trip today;
We hope they do, then they go away.
At the Mountain Sheep;
All those frogs go "bleat."

Too soon we are climbing;
Out of the canyon, I am rhyming.
A report of our adventure, I sing the refrain;
About that wondrous Esplanade terrain.

 

The "real" lyrics by the Lizards go like this:


Acid Rain, keep on falling;
while her name, I am calling.
I walk the shores, of Lake Champlain;
in the placid acid rain.
Walked together through the forest of dying trees;
tasted the sulfuric acid on the April breeze.
went canoeing on the lake, fish were floating by;
she read me her manifesto, I had no reply ...

* thyne Jugs of Jeremy is a reference to the precious water left on the Esplanade below the Bill Hall Trail by Jeremy C. last year - when we hiked the Kanab Creek Wilderness to The River, along the river to Deer Creek Falls and Thunder River, and out the Bill Hall Trail. See the 2005 Kanab Creek Wilderness report in the links section for the complete story. Now, back to our current report ----

Mark C. comments: " My principal recollection is gratitude for the exercise, the good company, the scenery and the good weather. I actually enjoyed the suspense of not knowing in advance if the next Spring was running. It took us back to the essentials. Since I had no long pants, I had no chance but to take notice (and carry some scars) of the change in flora as we moved down canyon. During the first five miles, we saw mostly native bunch grasses, sage and so forth. On our last day (to Swapp TH), we hiked through several extensive flats that had been taken over almost completely by Russian thistle. That was a little depressing."

Rob's report: This is a report about a cooperative hike in the Kanab Creek Wilderness in Northern Arizona. We backpacked down Snake Gulch to where it meets Kanab Creek, along Kanab Creek to the Ranger Trail 41. On the Ranger, we hiked to Lower Jumpup Spring and then to Mountain Sheep Spring before hiking out of the wilderness to Sowats Point. Eleven of us started the venture. By design, four hiked out Swapp Trail after four days. The remaining seven hiked the entire distance. Along the way, we encountered many pictos and lots of wilderness. It's wild, lovely country and here is a longer version of the tale:

Night 1: Eleven of us mill around the warped and frayed FS table amidst the brush of Snake Gulch TH (below Oak Creek) nibbling on hummus, salsas, and assorted snacks. Al has brought beer galore. We decide the table is ironically representative of the status the FS and all potential stewards of public land have "enjoyed" in the days of bushco - frayed, frazzled, lacking in maintenance so that our precious treasures become dilapidated and they can be sold to private interests. Sad indeed. Yet, we are not currently sad as we relish happy hour and local sunset in the Kaibab NF. Gazing at the slight salmon glow emanating from the sandstone, we talk trivia and trailhead shuttle. Having settled in, the shuttle to Sowats Point would wait until the morning. Part of the group has already accomplished the Swapps TH car drop on the way in.

Yes, there are eleven of us. Al and I had envisioned a repeat trek into the land of the Kaibab while the snow was flying, and co-organized it as a Sierra Club cooperative trip. Al writes "fast forward 6.5 hours. Gather at Snake Gulch TH. Exploration and camping on an irregular, rocky, cactus-covered desert. Reality is pretty canyon, green grass, perfect temperature. Mellow group getting mellower by the minute as the beers are consumed."

Our plan is more complicated than initially envisioned: four would hike the short, from Snake to Swapps TH (Ken E., Mark C., Rebecca W., and Robert J.) and the remaining seven would continue to Sowats Point (Al & Mary H., Gordon L., Aaron J., Paul G., and Kathleen and I).

Day 1: Picto Heaven - Snake Gulch to Table Rock Spring (7 miles). We were up early and Al, Gordon and I ran the shuttle from Snake Gulch TH to Sowats Point (30 miles one way; 3 hours total). Then, final packing of a 56 pound (argh) pack, we slide gradually into the Kanab Creek Wilderness. Along the U-shaped valley we plod, and soon encounter a shallow rock shelter replete with pictos and petros, and it's lunch time too! As we drift down the canyon, we investigate some eight additional panels and probably miss twice that many. Primitive red figures festooned with ear bobs and necklaces are all that remain of many of these Basket-maker era pictos. I pause numerous times to nurse flattened feet and to GPS mark some of the haunting panels.

It's quite warm when we stumble to Table Rock Canyon and see no water or sign of water. Argh. Poking longingly into the canyon, we encounter a 4' diameter horse tank with glee. The luscious neon green water prompts us to continue up canyon where we soon reach a cement edifice filled with clear essence. Saved!

The group spreads out to camp. An alcove above us contains bits of structure walls and some defaced pictos. Beauty surrounds us.

We enjoy spicy black beans with rice and pita bread lathered with hummus. Yum. A thunderstorm surprises us and sets the rocks to glisten and glow.

Day 2: Rockin' to the Top: Table Rock - day hike to top (6 miles). We discover the best panel to date, just East of Table Rock Canyon. Figures loom far above, casting vacant into the distant past.

Wandering the 'trail' up Table Rock Canyon, we find that the route has been used - probably by folks taking a short route to the panels of Snake Gulch. We hike up, take the right fork and climb out of the canyon to encounter a spider web of roads on their way to Willow Point. We return to a nice "bath" from the horse trough and pasta with fresh veggies prepared by Al and Mary. Now, we enjoy local sunset, as the light slips chiffon pink across the layer cake cliff bands.

canyon froggy
canyon froggy
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Kathleen and picto
Kathleen and picto
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Mark and picto
Mark and picto
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Rob and junction of Kanab Cr (left) and Snake Gulch (right)
Rob and junction
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Snake Gulch picto
Snake Gulch picto
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Snake Gulch picto
Snake Gulch picto
(Click the image for a full-size view)

Day 3: Wildband Roving - Table Rock to Willow Spring (6+ miles). My feet are regaining their previous shape for the fifth time today as the cool air settles into the canyon at the mouth of Willow Spring Canyon.

We start out sometime after 9 a.m. and after one more picto and two small granaries, we don't see more prehistoric art or structures until we reach Kanab Creek.

We stop in at Pigeon Spring and find a tiny flow, more of a hand-sized puddle filled with sulphurous slime. Disappointing. Ken plays tag with a canyon rattler, and I snap a quick photo before he slithers quickly into the brush. Continuing, we find water in a horse trough near Wildband Canyon, which holds an alcove suitable for lunch, after which we slog on in the heat to Willow Canyon.

Ken is re-engineering the various drips and drops of Willow Spring after we locate in a half mile up the canyon. Soon, we have a flow sufficient to support two filters, filtering simultaneously. We gather water in what bottles we have and return later, after sunset, for more. We are camped on the coluvium opposite the canyon. Dinner is a stew of potatoes and lentils and peas. Deluxe.

During the evening, the breeze flaps the tent, we hear owls hooting overhead, and toward morning Mourning Doves and coyotes.

Day 4: The Magnificent Seven Go Seven + - Seven dust off to Ed Hatch Cabin and a Gusher! (8 or so miles). If the previous days were marked by pictos and petros, today is marked by expansive vistas, rising canyon walls, and a gusher of a spring confined to a pipe.

Arising early, we head through the brush to the foot of Swapp Trail, where Mark, Ken, Rebecca, and Robert climb the short distance out of the canyon, and perhaps to Nedras or the Rocking-V. We remnant hikers encourage them to not support the bigots in Bigotville, Kanab who have recently endorsed a "natural family" resolution where every woman is cow to a "full quiver of children" and relegated to destroying the earth via dramatic overpopulation, and where diversity is denigrated in the name of 'religious' intolerance. I suppose "religious intolerance" is redundant, is it not?

The resolution states "...We see our homes as open to a full quiver of children, the source of family continuity and social growth. We envision young women growing into wives, homemakers, and mothers; and we see young men growing into husbands, home-builders, and fathers."

Then, there were seven. The character of the canyon changes, broader with taller walls and more dessert-like foliage. This translates into hotter with more dust.

Now, while gazing at a Zane Grey sky - cerulean blue dotted with fluffy clouds pasted against the white and deep red rust of canyon walls - is this the Hermit Shale? Al reads from the Ed Hatch Cabin log, where folks whine and threaten cow fondlers and tree huggers, punctuated by notes about "Bigotville," referring to the propagation proponents in Kanab, shithead capitol of the West, although an astounding number of communities are vying for this distinctive title of elitism. We have showered and done light laundry and we regard the Ed Hatch Cabin as an oasis of yore. Water gushes from the spring wrapped in a pipe as we enjoy bean burritos garnished with fresh green peppers and avocados and tomatoes, luscious. The Magnificent Seven have arrived.

Snake Gulch picto
Snake Gulch picto
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Snake Gulch picto
Snake Gulch picto
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Kanab Picto
Kanab Picto
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Al & Kanab Picto
Al & Kanab Picto
(Click the image for a full-size view)
K & Kanab Picto
K & Kanab Picto
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Paul & Kanab Picto
Paul & Kanab Picto
(Click the image for a full-size view)

Day 5: Ephemeral Trail? Ed Hatch to somewhere along Kanab Creek. (7 miles + 3+ searching for the Lost Ranger). We're camped on slickrock poolside to Kanab Creek. Today was a bust. Starting out from the Ed Hatch Cabin, we made good time to the water flowing down Kanab Creek. Then, we lost the Lost Ranger.

The short story is that we could not find the North end of the Ranger Trail. After three hours and at least three additional miles, Al and I found the trail - abandoned but not marked, and hidden up a side canyon. The positive aspect was seeing two Bighorn Sheep, looking askance at us, as if we were crazy - perhaps they're right. We saw lots of Chuckars and some old rock walls in Jensen Canyon. Now, as dark descends we're somewhere between Jensen and Big Cove Canyons. The trail that is is not where it is shown on the map. The trail that is shown on the map is not.

And, in upper Kanab, we encountered several bulbous Esplanade outcrops plentifully festooned with gorgeous pictos, including some amazing multi-colored images - even an upside-down image of Dick Cheney celebrating after emptying your tax money into pet projects like Halliburton and other private welfare entities so important to (their) self interest (oops, I mean national security).

Day 6: Esplande, Keep on Rolling; Mythical Ranger - Kanab Creek to Somewhere along the Ranger (15 miles, 2700' elevation change, rolling terrain). Dark is dropping in as we drop off the Ranger to find a pock-marked slickrock table for an impromptu camp. Oooah, a scenic camp on the Esplanade.

About a mile below camp on Kanab Creek we see cairns and an old FS sign for the Ranger Trial 41, announcing 13 miles to Lower Jumpup Spring. Ahh, relief, because we are wondering if we will find the Ranger at all, or end up walking all the way down Kanab to where it intersects with Jumpup Canyon at the edge of Grand Canyon NP.

Well, the sign is typical of many FS signs - off by quite a bit. We roll along the Esplanade, gaining and losing lots of elevation as we detour around and through side-canyons. Fortunately, a storm rolls in and provides rain and cooling winds. It rains hard enough, that, combined with the wind - prompts us to don jackets and pack covers. Soon, however, we are cooking in the sunlight - exposed on the billowy, barren Esplande. Rolling along.

Thirteen miles into the hike, with dusk settling, we realize there is no way we will make it to Jumpup Spring, wherever it is. We stop on the Esplanade when we see rain-filled potholes and camp with an unbelievable view into the dusky canyons. Despite flat feet, tired muscles, we feel fortunate because if not for the rain and cool weather we would not be this far and if not for the rain, no water for another 3 or 4 miles, perhaps more? Using pot lids to scavenger water from the shallow water pockets, we get by. Gordon feels poor and slips into bed after a cup of tea.

And, lo, we did speak fondly of and coveted the Jugs of Jeremy. (A reference to the spectacular, rejuvenating water jugs left for us by Jeremy C. on the Esplanade last year. See the 2005 Kanab Creek Wilderness trek for details.)

The Esplanade Terrain song echoes in my head as I drift off to sleep in the star-studded bosom of the land.

Rattle Snake
Rattle Snake
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Inquisitive spiny lizard
Inquisitive spiny
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Esplanade Windows
Esplanade Windows
(Click the image for a full-size view)
A Zane Grey day
Zane Grey day
(Click the image for a full-size view)
chuckwalla in the jumpup gorge
chuckwalla
(Click the image for a full-size view)
hiking in Jumpup canyon gorge
Jumpup gorge
(Click the image for a full-size view)

Esplanade, keep on rolling;
As the sun, it is glowing.
Even with the sun, hot as a flame;
I love this Esplanade terrain.

Day 7: Bleating Sheep: Ranger to Mountain Sheep Spring (8 miles) + Visit Lower Jumpup Spring. The frogs bleat, the Mountain Sheep-like utterances reverberate throughout the canyon, giving Mountain Sheep its name. Today we complete the long section of the Ranger and dip down half a mile to investigate Lower Jumpup Spring (little camping here). Then, back on the Ranger and eventually into Sowats Canyon to one of our favorite springs.

It is difficult to get rolling along the Esplanade, yet we are looking forward to the oasis of Mtn. Sheep. Al calls off the roll and we lounge in the shade of a Juniper, gazing into the lush foliage of Cottonwood tops poking out from the upper reaches of nearby Jumpup Canyon.

Kathleen and I encounter the first people of the trip at Mtn. Sheep Spring, and they soon leave as the direct sunlight slides behind the towering walls. We lounge in the enveloping shade and gaze at the pictos near the origin of the spring. Delightful. Eventually, we laze to a campsite and enjoy a shower before a dinner of tofu enchiladas and rice.

Day 8: Chunky Chuckwalla: day hike to Indian Hollow (6 miles). Paul, Mary, Kathleen, and I stumble along the sinuous slithering limestone slot choked with petrified watermelons. Along the elephant hide wall we encounter a feisty Chuckwalla. At first, Paul believes he requires rescue, a move to somewhere with something to eat. Yet, when Paul tries to pick up the Mr. Chuk, he lunges out of his lethargy, hissing and showing his blood red mouth and looking as large as possible. Yikes, I recoil and nearly flop on my back in the unsteady boulder fest.

We're on our way to Indian Hollow, where we find lots of fossil impressions on our travel up to the boulder pile and deep pool which prevents easy access to this canyon.

It's growing hot as we weave our way back to camp, enjoy another luscious shower and the camaraderie of the magnificent seven relishing a tranquil dinner.

Day 9: So what!? It's Sowat Point: Mountain Sheep to Sowats Point, 6 miles, +2300 feet elevation gain. We're reconvening at the upper, and I do mean "upper," TH, me with bruised feet. It's cool, mostly because we are wet from the sweat of the climb. Gazing across the canyon to the horizon, I wonder - can we really be at the end of this delightfully deluxe adventure? Oh no. If it's May 8th, it must be the end of freedom as we have known it. Ick.

We were up in the dark and hiking a bit after 6 a.m. Up the canyon, up some colossal steps, then pop, we're once again on the Esplanade. Around we swing to the Cottonwoods near Kwagunt Hollow. Then comes the slog up the precipitous switch-backs and the loping promenade around to the notch and then the final climb. Stretched out in the shade, we await the gathering of the group.

We saw two people in 9 days, and these not until the 7th day.

Nedras in Fredonia is closed today, so we are forced to eat in Bigotville, utah, home of perpetual propagation until the world implodes. Then, Mary and Al head for realms to the South, Aaron and Gordon take a backcountry tour home, and Paul, Kathleen and I ply the crowded provo Parking Procession (I-15) back to work and a look at the photos from the trip. Esplanade, keep on rolling......

Maps and GPS Routes:

Map- Kanab Creek Wilderness: Snake Gulch to Sowats Point
Map- Kanab Creek Wilderness: Snake Gulch to Sowats Point
(Click the image to see the map)

If you want to view a full-resolution map, click here. Caution - do not use this map or gps track for navigating the route.

Rock to rock - FS map
Rock to rock - FS map
(Click the image for a full-size view)
day 1 to table rock
day 1 to table rock
(Click the image for a full-size view)
day 3 to willow spring
day 3 to willow spring
(Click the image for a full-size view)
day 4 to ed hatch-slide
day 4 to ed hatch-slide
(Click the image for a full-size view)
day 5 to lost ranger
day 5 to lost ranger
(Click the image for a full-size view)
day 7 to Mountain Sheep spring
day 7 to Mountain Sheep spring
(Click the image for a full-size view)

Links:

This trek was presented at the Grand Canyon Hikers Symposium, October of 2007

Kanab Creek Outing report in the Fall 2006 Utah Sierran (pdf file) - see page 8: Caution - el gordo gigabyte file! (3.3mb)

Map- Kanab Creek Wilderness: Snake Gulch to Sowats Point
Map- Kanab Creek Wilderness: Snake Gulch to Sowats Point
(Click the image to see the map)

If you want to view a full-resolution map, click here. Caution - do not use this map or gps track for navigating the route.

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