Chiricahua Cavalcade: Chiricahua National Monument and Portal Porting, 2008
Big Loop in the NM, Chiricahua Natural Bridge, Arch hunting near Portal

October 22-27, 2008

(Photos and text © copyright by Rob)
a Chiricahua NM grotto
a Chiricahua NM grotto

      The photos above were arranged to form an exclamation mark, noting how wonderful are the Chiricahua Mountains and National Monument. Click on them individually to see a full-size view.

Organ Pipe Pano
Organ Pipe Pano
(Image is very wide - scroll to view it (1591 x 500; 280kb) - Click the image for the full-size image)

A Spiny Lizard Welcomes you
A Spiny Lizard Welcomes you
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Echo Park Trail Grotto
Echo Park Trail Grotto
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Echo Park Trail Grotto
Echo Park Trail Grotto
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the real Wall Street
Walking the real Wall Street
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the real Wall Street
the real Wall Street
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Acorn Woodpecker
Acorn Woodpecker
(Click the image for a full-size view)

      41 photos and 2 panoramas are scattered throughout this report.
      Keep scrolling.

      Cavalcade = a parade, a procession, any noteworthy series, as of events or activities.

      Prologue: 10-22-2008. Kathleen and I are leaving for a trip to the Chiricahua National Monument (NM) and Wilderness area. We will be searching for The Portal, White Tail Arch, and Chiricahua NB and an unnamed arch.

spires of Echo Park
spires of Echo Park
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Thor's Hammer
Thor's Hammer
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Thor's Hammer
Thor's Hammer
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Camel Head
Camel Head
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Camel Head
Camel Head
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Big Balanced Rock
Big Balanced Rock
(Click the image for a full-size view)

      10-23-2008: Driver: Driving to the NM, by way of Payson and other "back" roads. Arrived at the NM about 4:30p after 350 miles or so of traveling. (This was the 22nd), now back to the real Day 1:

      Day 1: Hoodoo Hurrah. Chiricahua Big Loop, : 9 miles; 16 ERM.
      From under two blankets and a down comforter, I'm writing these notes. It's been a long exploration day in the gorgeous hoodoos created by many layers of cemented volcanic ash - The Turkey Eruption - then, the layers were eroded into the spires, mushrooms, balanced rocks, and other features of the NM. Delightful. We began at Echo Canyon TH, near 7,000', and wandered the grotto and wall street on our way to diversely treed Echo Park. A cavalcade. Then, Rhyolite Canyon, leading to Deming and the Heart of the Rocks loop. All along the way we hike lovely grades constructed by the CCC (Civilian Conservation Corp, the "Tree Army" of the last great depression) - thanks due to the CCC.
      Soon, I imagine we will have another CCC. Now, we await the rendition of bushco, to work as 'go-fors' for the next version of the CCC, initiated with the present great depression, thrust upon us by the regulation-gutting, asleep at the switch, elitist wealthy of the uber wealthiest-enhancing g.w. bushco and his minions, to be followed by their rendition to Iraq for truth-telling after many years of public service. This service will be a tiny portion of repayment for all the harm done to our society, the constitution, the people, our national identity, our standing in the word, the global and local environments, harm galore. Lift that rock dick head, tote that bucket rummy, cut that brush bushco, clean that outhouse condie, keep working, there's work until dark, working, working hard - even on Saturday and Sunday. Placement of these war criminals and global gluttons in no way diminishes the fine work of trail crews, because bushco serve as the lowliest of servants to the crews in imperfect atonement and redress of sins too numerous to catalogue. Of course, their health care coverage and wealth will be transferred to someone deserving, they will be under constant surveillance, they will have no constitutional rights, and they will listen (at high decibels) to evangelical christians reciting the names of all those killed and maimed in the optional Iraq war, and the names of the many millions of Americans they transported (trickle down) out of the middle class and into some shade of poverty. Live video streaming of all bushco activities will be provided by the repulsican national committee on the faux news channel.

Map - Chiricahua: Big Loop; 9 miles
Map - Chiricahua: Big Loop; 9 miles
(Click the image to see the map)
Heart of the Rocks Pano - Dos Cabezas to Sugar Loaf to Cochise Head
Heart of the Rocks Pano - L-R: Dos Cabezas to Sugar Loaf to Cochise Head
(Image is very wide - scroll to view it all (4459 x 500; 872kb) - Click the image for the full-size image)

Big Balanced Rock
Big Balanced Rock
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Big Balanced Rock
Big Balanced Rock
(Click the image)
Duck on a rock
Duck on a rock
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Old Maid
Old Maid
(Click the image)
Old Maid, Young Maid
Old Maid, Young Maid
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rock-color mantis
rock-color mantis
(Click the image for a full-size view)

      Camel Head, Thor's Hammer, Kissing Rocks, Duck on a Rock, Punch and Judy, et al. - nicely crafted and decorated with neon lichens. Exquisite. Back from the Heart of the Rocks loop, I see the giant Balanced Rock from the junction. Impossible. An incomparable variety and assortment of shapes and vegetation exist on this sky island. Unique combinations seen nowhere else. Amazing. A pano from (Dos Cabezas?) to Sugar Loaf to Cochise Head, and hoodoos among and between. Now, we are hiking from Balanced Rock to Mushroom Rock, another feature high on the ridge, unbelievably perched. The Ed Riggs Trail leads us finally back to the car park. A glorious hike, definitely worth a future repeat. (See the map.) We enjoy a sun shower and dark collapses. We wear shorts during the day and fleece at night. Happily, the CG is generally safe from RVs. Hoorah!

Punch and Judy
Punch and Judy
(Click the image)
Punch and Judy
Punch and Judy
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Mushroom Rock
Mushroom Rock
(Click the image)

      There are - More photos below narrative.

      Day 2: Cheerio! Chiricahua Natural Bridge. : 5 miles; 7 ERM.
      We've toured up North Bonito Canyon, over a bump, and down into Picket Canyon and now gaze at the diverse assortment of trees and terrain, when, pop, there's the bulky NB just across the narrow canyon. It's possible to contour around to the NB because we're nearly at the head of the canyon - albeit not much is gained in photographic potential because the NB is crowded by pines and other foliage. It's a delightful hike with or without the NB. We're back early for a shower and to finally check in at the visitor center. It has been warm today - shorts all day until 4:30p.

Map - Chiricahua: Chiricahua Natural Bridge; 5 miles
Map - Chiricahua: Chiricahua Natural Bridge; 5 miles
(Click the image to see the map)

Chiricahua NB
Chiricahua NB
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Chiricahua NB
Chiricahua NB
(Click the image)
Chiricahua NB
Chiricahua NB
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Chiricahua NB
Chiricahua NB
(Click the image)
Mexican Jay
Mexican Jay
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Paradise Not
Paradise Not
(Click the image for a full-size view)

      Day 3: Big Piney prowling to Portal. Chiricahua - NM to NM (National Monument to New Mexico). Today, we did a lot of driving and then looked for Whitetail and later the Portal Arches, finding one Portal and a distant Whitetail. 2 miles; 4 ERM.
      Reluctantly packed up, we drive the sinuous Big Piney dirt road (could camp along here if NM CG is full) over Onion Saddle and beyond. Branching off to Paradise (not), we search for East Whitetail Canyon Arch - clogged with private land blocking access. A distant photo, then we move on. On to Portal, then to Rodeo, NM and back to Portal. It's our fourth try, (first, on the phone and later in person) trying to get a few basic questions answered by people at the Portal Lodge with zero success. We finally yield. People are much more congenial in Los Angeles. I would not recommend Portal Lodge. Instead, go camp in one of the nearby FS camps, where the ambience is so much better anyway.

Map - Chiricahua: driving - Portal - NM overview
Map - Chiricahua: driving - Portal - NM overview
(Click the image to see the map)

The Nippers
The Nippers
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Whitetail Arch
Whitetail Arch
(Click the image)
S. Cave Cr. Portal
S. Cave Cr. Portal
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S. Cave Cr. Portal
S. Cave Cr. Portal
(Click the image)
S. Cave Cr. Portal
S. Cave Cr. Portal
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Sycamore Sunset
Sycamore Sunset
(Click the image for a full-size view)

      Now, back to our story - 0.25 miles up from the mouth of South Fork Cave Creek, I begin searching for the Portal Arches. Up the untrailed scree, it's a slippery business. I find what may be Little Portal Arch, but run out of daylight before locating Big Portal. Sadly, we stay in the Portal Lodge. Javelina are seen near the lodge trying to harvest what appear to be pomegranate.

      Day 4: Chiricahua times: Silver Peak Trail in quest of the Sceloporus (my name) Arch - which turn out to be two arches. 5.5 miles; 15 ERM.
      This unnamed arch, we dubbed Sceloporus Arches (because there are two arches there), and Sceloporus because that's the name of a nearby peak.
      Sceloporus is biology speak for Spiny Lizard, and we believe we have been seeing the Sceloporus Jarrovii, or Yarrow's Spiny Lizard. We start up the Silver Peak Trail - a good trail. Unwisely, I went up the back side of the ridge containing the arch and assorted hoodoos, hoping the gain in elevation was to my advantage. Instead, I would have enjoyed the day more if I had continued on the Silver Peak Trail to its summit. (One can see the arch from near the trailhead - in the formation that looks like a coffee pot.) Steep up, then ridged out, I drop down to the first set of hoodoos, and, peering around the edge of a dramatic drop, finally see the still-distant arch, and snap some distant photos. Not wanting to retrace the route, I start down from the hoodoos, an awful descent filled with klingon sticky weed seeds. Happy to be down, we explore to Sunny Flat CG and then over to the end of S. Fk. Cave Creek for dinner, followed by a walk in the ablaze Arizona Sycamore. Delightful.

Map - Chiricahua: Silver Peak Trail to near Sceloporus; 5.5 miles
Map - Chiricahua: Silver Peak Trail to near Sceloporus; 5.5 miles
(Click the image to see the map)

King Top
King Top
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Sceloporus Arch
Sceloporus Arch
(Click the image)
Sceloporus Arch
Sceloporus Arch
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Sceloporus Arch
Sceloporus Arch
(Click the image)
Sceloporus Arch
Sceloporus Arch
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Sceloporus Arch
Sceloporus Arch
(Click the image for a full-size view)

GPS tracks and maps

      Because this area is so widely known, I am providing maps:

Map - Chiricahua: Big Loop; 9 miles
Map - Chiricahua: Big Loop; 9 miles
(Click the image to see the map)

Map - Chiricahua: Chiricahua Natural Bridge; 5 miles
Map - Chiricahua: Chiricahua Natural Bridge; 5 miles
(Click the image to see the map)

Map - Chiricahua: driving - Portal - NM overview
Map - Chiricahua: driving - Portal - NM overview
(Click the image to see the map)

Map - Chiricahua: Silver Peak Trail to near Sceloporus; 5.5 miles
Map - Chiricahua: Silver Peak Trail to near Sceloporus; 5.5 miles
(Click the image to see the map)

kissing
kissing "so long" from the Chiricahua Wilderness
(Click the image to see a full-size version.)


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